[Malbut]

Many thanks,

[Malbut]

Thanks.
It’s a Beko HCC64103 with total power load of 5.8 kW. No cable fitted. About .75m required. Would 3183TQ immersion cable suit? [h=1][/h]

[Malbut]

Re: BOSCH SGS 5002 GB fuse blows

Re 3 above — I learn from the spares section it’s a steam vent…

[Malbut]

Re: BOSCH SGS 5002 GB fuse blows

Thanks everyone for your suggestions.

Because the fuse blew at about the time I reckoned the detergent dispenser operated, I thought Simon46’s suggestion fitted the symptoms (and the easiest to test out first). So I disconnected the solenoid and ran the washer for two full cycles. It seems that’s the problem, so I need a replacement detergent dispenser assembly.

I’ve got a three more (probably silly) queries if anyone can answer them and put my mind at rest, please.

Here’s the full set of numbers on the door:
SGS5002GB/07
FD 7709 600306
SGS5002GB 0 730 102 380

1) Two nylon castings that look a bit like hair clipper combs (about 2 in cubed) fell out when I took the door front off. Anyone know where they go? The rinse-aid reservoir seems to have been leaking. Would the castings have anything to do with that?

2) There’s something that looks like a temperature sensor clipped to the top of the dispenser box. It’s held against the metal of the door’s interior stainless steel lining but with some metalised grease between the sensor and the door’s interior. What’s this grease and can I re-use what’s already there.

3) There’s a square “pipe” leading from the detergent side of the dispenser down to the bottom corner of the door. What does this do and is it easy to re-fit to a new dispenser assembly?

Thanks everyone for the help already given

[Malbut]

Re: BOSCH SGS 5002 GB fuse blows

Thanks for responding.
It’s the 13A fuse in the dishwasher plug that blows. I didn’t originally say that the water temperature appears to have risen before the fuse blows.
Any ideas what I can check to see what and where the line and neutral short might be?

[Malbut]

Re: Candy gas hob ignition trips consumer unit

Hi Bryan,

I’m a visitor so I don’t know how it’s connected. I’ll have to go back and check.

Thanks.

Mal

[Malbut]

Re: Candy gas hob ignition trips consumer unit

Hi Martin, Spillage or too wet cleaning was my first thought, but I was assured nothing like that happened. Nevertheless, I guess that’s the most likely cause. What concerned me, however, was why the mains circuit breaker tripped.

[Malbut]

Re: Erratic spin

Thanks iadom/Martin – checking seems to have cured the problem!

[Malbut]

Re: Erratic spin

Thanks for the response,

The motor has no name. The only identity is “AC Motor Type 904/XXXX for speed control”. As far as I remember, the brushes came in plastic holders which clipped into the motor body.

On the brush end of the motor, there is a 2 cm approx metal ring with two wires attached. This is clamped over the end of the motor shaft. It’s possible to slightly slide this with effort. I’m sure this can be fixed in position if that’s the problem – but is the position crucial, or should it just look symmetrical?

[Malbut]

Re: Problem with rust on stainless cutlery

Hi iadom,

Thanks for the info. It’s good to be reassured I’m not turning into a snake oil salesman. Memories of school chemistry and physics told me I should be on to something.

I’m going to try joining up some perforated zinc inserts to put in the bottom of the cutlery basket sections.

Life’s really exciting sometimes, innit?

Thanks,

Mal

[Malbut]

Re: Problem with rust on stainless cutlery

Aluminium foil appears to be an answer

I thought electrolytic action could help. So I tore off six strips of cooking foil about 8 cm wide and folded them to make 2 cm multiply strips.

I joined these together to form one long foil ribbon. I ran this down the wall of each compartment, across the bottom and up the side. I did this throughout the cutlery basket making one complete circuit.

Several loadings have been washed since I installed this foil circuit. The cutlery has been the usual mix of odds and sods of stainless, chrome plated, epns, cutlery, tools, implements, etc. The washes have been completed overnight and left in the washer for up to 12 hours.

The result is that the stainings and marks noted on almost every recent wash have almost stopped.

A less Heath Robinson approach might be to fabricate a complete aluminium (or zinc) cutlery basket. Does anyone know if this has been tried?

Mal

[Malbut]

Re: Problem with rust on stainless cutlery

Thanks kwatt,

That’s an exhaustive list of reasons (and other problems).

However, it’s a bit like reading the folded printed paper inside a packet of medicine which gives all the possible bad side effects you could get from taking the very thing which is meant to be doing you good…

I’m using what I assume to be good quality salt, detergent and rinse (i.e. not supermarket own brand – although I never noticed these problems before when I did use the less expensive products). Therefore, I’m going to take note of what’s in these products and experiment with the quantities where possible.

One thing that strikes me is that this is a case where cathodic protection might work if I install a sacrificial zinc anode – or has that already been tried?

[Malbut]

Re: When is salt NOT salt?

LJDomestics wrote:

WILLthesparky wrote:
i was thinnking more rock salt

A couple of years doing that ( if the machine didnt pack up ) your gonna make your dentist one very rich one. 😆
Why – are you not supposed to wash you dentures in there ? 😯

[Malbut]

Re: Servis FF Model M0263W not cooling

Hi John,

I’m no fridge freezer expert, but as my repair still seems to be working here’s my two-penn’orth…

My freezer compartment was almost empty so it cost me nothing to leave everything switched off for 24 hours just to be sure something wasn’t simply iced up. I could also check that the thingy which drains into the plastic dish on top of the compressor was clear.

The next day I switched on to test and proved it was not the above (if I put my ear against the side I could hear if the fan behind the clipped-in rear wall in the freezer was running – it wasn’t).

Obviously, unplug the fridge freezer before you go further.

I then unclipped the back panel inside the freezer compartment to get to a second panel on which the fan is mounted. Lifting out a round cover in the panel let me unplug the fan motor and lift out the complete second panel. I could then test if the motor was OK (it’s mains voltage). As it was, I then moved to the electronics.

The electronics are mounted on a printed circuit in the control/lights panel that’s above the fridge door. The panel’s held by two screws underneath which you can see when you open the fridge door. Remove these and you can pull the panel straight off – it might resist a bit because the panel also seems to be stuck in place with an adhesive sponge gasket. But wiggling it as I pulled helped get me it off (a tip for life there, maybe 😉 ).

There are two multi-pin plugs bringing all the cabling to the printed circuit board – they’ve got small clips that need to be pressed to unplug them, so don’t just tug.

There are two screws holding the PCB into the panel and you’ll have to remove these to get to the components on the other side.

I used a magnifying glass to check for any visible problems like bulging or burnt components. I suspected one of the two capacitors (marked as C2 on the board) near the reed relay that’s mounted like miniature goal posts, and I decided to renew all three capacitors – the big blue plastic X2 parallel to the reed relay assembly; the nearby suspect smaller round electrolytic; and a really tiny blue ceramic marked 104 right at the furthest end of the PCB (C3 I think – there are some unpopulated positions with various markings on my PCB).

It’s a simple job to replace the components using a small soldering iron and a pair of small wire clippers and a small screwdriver to lever the components off as you heat the solder. Two things to note are:

1) don’t overheat the PCB – especially anywhere near the semiconductors or the integrated circuit;

2) C2 is the only capacitor with polarity marked – usually a series of dashes to denote negative so note the way the original is mounted before you take it off (however, PCBs often show where the positive + leg should go).

I got my replacements from Maplin (its catalogue is online) – here are the catalogue numbers and details if it helps (note, I chose more robust substitutes for the originals, but it’s obvious which ones they replace):

DT67 470uF 50V 105C @ 48p
N74CN MP X2 275V 1uF @ £3.02
WW54 Tat 0.1uF 35V @ 52p

That’s what I did with my board. But the more I read on here about modern white goods the less confident I am manufacturers are consistent with the components and subassemblies they use even in the same models.

Good luck !

[Malbut]

Re: Servis FF Model M0263W not cooling

I THINK WE HAVE A RESULT !!! 😀

Apologies for shouting but, after 12 hours running, we appear to have solved the problem – although I can’t pinpoint exactly how.

I got the idea from reading other posters’ problems with those highly complex Whirlpools so I decided to test the capacitors. There are three on the M0263W’s (CB09) circuit board: an X2 B32923, a 16v 470uf electrolytic and a 0.1uf 50v ceramic.

My experience to date is with audio equipment and communication systems, but I’ve rarely known an X2 fail. Electrolytics can go duff, and little epoxy-dipped ceramics are fairly frequently involved in circuit failures. The only one that looked suspect (slightly bulging, but that could be my imagination) was the canned electrolytic.

They all looked cheapos so I replaced them all with higher voltage and temperature rated equivalents. Total cost £4.02 from Maplins.

I can’t say what the problem was as it’s difficult to see the role of each component on the board apart from generally guessing. However, as lack of information seldom stops me having an opinion, here’s my take on the situation – I think the capacitors used to boost/smooth out the supply when the freezer fan and compressor motor kick in were not up to the job. It seems that luckily the integrated circuit and other semiconductors have not been affected.

I hope this helps anyone else out there who’s been daft enough to buy a cheapo frost free fridge freezer using electronics for its control.

Thanks to everyone who’s made suggestions and given me ideas to go on.

Now I’ve got to go and tackle a wasp nest in the roof…

[Author]

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