mundaysrepair

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Viewing 12 posts - 1 through 12 (of 12 total)
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  • in reply to: Zanussi ZDE47200W tripping out #434764
    mundaysrepair
    Participant

    Re: Zanussi ZDE47200W tripping out

    Take the element cover off and look for evidence of moisture

    in reply to: Hoover DYN8144D/L-80 banging before spin #434196
    mundaysrepair
    Participant

    Re: Hoover DYN8144D/L-80 banging before spin

    Hi there My name is Nick from Munday Appliance Repairs in Northampton.

    Sounds like you’re right, the damper should not freely and easily slide in out of of it casing. It should have some resistance that will feel just like a bike pump when the tires are getting full, Nice one.

    Nick

    in reply to: Hotpoint wml730 Aquarius wont wash with clothes in #434060
    mundaysrepair
    Participant

    Re: Hotpoint wml730 Aquarius wont wash with clothes in

    ok if a brush replacement doesn’t do the trick again it’s new motor time, sounds like a problem with the field winding which is unrepairable

    in reply to: Hotpoint wml730 Aquarius wont wash with clothes in #434058
    mundaysrepair
    Participant

    Re: Hotpoint wml730 Aquarius wont wash with clothes in

    Ok sounds like a motor fault, did you check both brushes? how long are they? are they shiny or dull and charred?
    Look for soot on the motor armature next and signs of armature wear.

    Take the belt off and start the machine on a normal wash, does the motor rotate in both directions successfully? or does it follow the same struggling pattern?

    Nick

    in reply to: Hotpoint wml730 Aquarius wont wash with clothes in #434056
    mundaysrepair
    Participant

    Re: Hotpoint wml730 Aquarius wont wash with clothes in

    Hi I’m Nick I run an appliance repair business in Northampton

    Take the back off and observe a wash with clothes in, does the motor turn? Possibility here of a loose belt not gripping the pulley with a load.

    Let me know what happens here,

    Nick

    in reply to: Bosch WAE24162GB not spinning #434054
    mundaysrepair
    Participant

    Re: Bosch WAE24162GB not spinning

    Hi my names is Nick I run an appliance repair business in Northampton,

    Unfortunately the problem you’re describing here could be either the main board or the motor. Do you have a multimeter to test across the motor connections?

    You should find that the two motor tags with the lowest resistance complete the armature circuit through the carbon brushes, maybe around 1-4 Ohms.
    Two or three of the others will all have continuity together at slightly higher Ohms, and these are the field winding, this has more than two connections for speed control.
    And the last two will have the highest resistance and is the taco (speed sensor) something over 10 Ohms possibly up to 30 or more.
    If the taco is open circuit, i.e. unlimited resistance then it is time for a new motor as Bosch motors have this built into them, also check if the wires run from the block to the taco correctly and give it a tap to check for a broken magnet!

    If this all checks out then look for a short circuit in the wiring up to the board.

    If it still checks out ok then yeah sounds like the board, could be a bit costly, good luck,
    I hope I’ve helped.

    Nick

    in reply to: lg1403rd dryer heater #434006
    mundaysrepair
    Participant

    Re: lg1403rd dryer heater

    Have you checked around the heater box for a resettable thermostat?

    Nick

    in reply to: What’s wrong with my MIELE S4212? #434043
    mundaysrepair
    Participant

    Re: What’s wrong with my MIELE S4212?

    Hi I’m Nick I run a repair business in Northampton,

    You could check for motor function by sending a supply directly to it, but only if the motor is rated at 240V! Check the data plate on the motor first to be certain it is designed to function in the 220-240v range. The electronics you mentioned are responsible for suction control and possibly have become damaged/disconnected during maintenance.
    If the motor works during testing check again for loose connections. If the motor doesn’t work check for fluff build up around the carbon brushes and also remove the carbon brushes and check for wear. They should be >5mm in length to function correctly with a bit of spring left in them. With the brushes still connected to the motor you should read continuity across the motors two terminals, <10 Ohms.

    Try to have everything connected with the top cover off and energise the vacuum, do you read 240v going to the motor?

    That’s about all you can test with a basic meter, let me know how you get on! Oh and be sure to have the motor braced in an insulated vice or something else sturdy and non-conductive. These motors take off and can read 1000s…. rpm instantly!

    Nick

    in reply to: Logix LBfan12X #433972
    mundaysrepair
    Participant

    Re: Logix LBfan12X

    Hi gary, no problem.

    Little bit hit and miss, from inside the front remove the racks and look for 2-4 philips head screws and remove the fan/element cover. You may find that the element is then secured in place by some more philips head screws and can be carefully pulled through and replaced that way. If you see that the element is screwed in the other way you will have to take the oven out and remove the back cover, this will be a few more screws but no big deal for a spark 😉

    Nick

    in reply to: IKEA dishwasher tripping RCD #434036
    mundaysrepair
    Participant

    Re: IKEA dishwasher tripping RCD

    Hi there my name is Nick and I run a repair business In Northampton. It does sound as though you certainly have a fault-to-earth on the heater. The heater may well function perfectly regardless of the fault, 30 Ohms would suggest a healthy 1800W element, leading you to wonder if it was at fault?? It is tripping because electrical potential is energising the earth circuit, only when the heater is in use! Potentially dangerous.
    Replace the heater.
    For a confirmation test….. Set your meter to the highest resistance range usually, 200MOhms, the meter should display something like 0 / 1 / over range to signify open-circuit, i.e. no continuity. Disconnect the tags from the heater, Now touch one probe on the earth terminal of the element itself and the other on one of the other heater terminals, (doesn’t matter which one, they have no polarity and will both measure a fault anyway). If your meter display changes to show any kind of continuity between earth and the supply then this is the source of the trip.
    Sometimes you will see the resistance climbing as you measure it until it reads off scale, this is due to the capacitor effect of two dissimilar metals being very close together, (the earth and element). In answer to your other query, yes as the element heats up the fault can worsen, guaranteeing a trip.

    Let me know how you get on!

    Nick

    in reply to: Logix LBfan12X #433970
    mundaysrepair
    Participant

    Re: Logix LBfan12X

    Oh and can I add that the fan is usually also in parallel with the element so it sounds likely to be the element at fault here!

    in reply to: Logix LBfan12X #433969
    mundaysrepair
    Participant

    Re: Logix LBfan12X

    Hi Gary,
    With this oven turn it to fan oven and select a temperature, say 200C, does the neon light turn on on the front panel? That indicator light sits in a parallel circuit with the fan oven heating element, therefore if the neon gets supply, the element is getting a supply.
    Indicator light off = selector fault
    Indicator light on = element fault.

    Other possibilities could be a burnt off tag or thermal overload stat, but this is a good starting point.

    Let me know how you get on!

Viewing 12 posts - 1 through 12 (of 12 total)