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electrofix wrote: never come across heat shield but there is less need on an induction hob as there is less heat transmitted downwards

as for the fan have you got a model no ?

Dave

Thanks – it’s a De Dietrich DTI318

And this is what happens:

• The left hand side hobs start as expected when the unit is switched on.
• The left hand side fan runs as expected.
• After 5-10 minutes of running one of the hobs at 11, the left hand side fails. Just as it does so, there’s a clicking sound of an inside relay, maybe a double click, the fan switches off, the display flashes the heat setting once, then goes off. No amount of fiddling around with the buttons can restart it.
• Rebooting the unit after 5 minutes, the left hand side works again – until the next time…

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electrofix wrote: each board has a cooling fan and it may have failed

Dave

Thanks Dave – is it feasible to repair? I had a quick look at the various spares companies and none of them stocked De Dietrich fans for induction hobs.

Also – if, as seems likely, I’m going to have to buy another hob (if I can find one with an identical cutout), I see many of them need heatshields underneath the hob (if the hob is above a drawer, as in our case). My old hob didn’t have one, so this is turning into the old woman who swallowed a fly. Are heatshields a safety issue, or just a nice-to-have?

[steverob1066]

andyjawa wrote:No idea of the actual model number! So basically you have/had a leak from the soap box nozzle`s black rubber hose – so one of the valve to dispenser hoses -plus the drain pump is constantly on. Normally it is a duff triac on the printed circuit board gone wrong BUT it can be a melted inlet valve coil ( which may or may not be fairly obvious so have a good look ) so turn power off remove lid, take a note which wires go where on the valve. If a double valve you remove the 2 wires off one solenoid, isolate them with tape as necessary switch machine back on see what happens with the pump, if no joy still do the same with other solenoid and if still no joy there turn power off again, remove back panel, and disconnect the two heater wires and isolate those and then retry. If still no joy most likely the pcb which would not surprise me as Hoover pcb`s are not the greatest. If you find any blown tracks or a physically looking blown up electronic component something PROBABLY (?) caused it ( the leaking water onto something ). If the machine has blown-up components and is still under the Hoover 10 year parts warranty call them out just in case it goes pop again – the parts cost them very little but a blown board is expensive for you and will be not covered if you bought and fitted it…….TAKE NOTE!! OR, more rarely can be a duff water pressure switch stuck on emergency pump out. Without the actual model number difficult to know..Check the pcb last.

Thanks so much for this comprehensive answer – really appreciate it. It turns out that a plastic nozzle with a black water inlet hose had cracked and was spraying water around the machine. After locating that, making running repairs with careful use of epoxy putty, and then drying the inside of the washer out with a fan heater, then putting it back together, the machine started working normally again. So I have to assume it was flood switch – although I couldn’t see but there must be one.. (Same thing happens with dishwashers – machine goes into manic drain mode if it thinks it’s flooded.)

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I changed the motor and that fixed it 🙂

[steverob1066]

OMG – you’re right – I’m cracking up. It’s def a Hoover.

[steverob1066]

Sorry – it’s a Hoover VT814D21-80. E08 error code is something to do with the motor or tacho I believe (according to Google).

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Well I refitted the motor and put it into wash mode, and got error code E08, which suggests it is the motor

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electrofix wrote:

going on the list above
with a multimeter i would expect
a reading between 2 and 6 which is the armature
a higher reading on the tacho pin 3 and 4
then a reading between 1 5 and 7 which will be field coil connections

if anything has failed it will be the armature. try taking a resistance reading across the armature and turning slowly to see if there are any spots where the reading changes

Dave

Thanks Dave – can’t see anything amiss with the readings:

• Tacho resistance (pins 3 and 4): 44 ohm
• Armature – pins 2 and 6 – ranges between 2 and 4 ohm as the shaft is very slowly rotated. (I had already cleaned the contacts because my first guess was brush trouble and maybe muck build up.) I rotated the shaft really slowly, both ways – not much resistance variation.
• Windings: pins 1-5, 1-7, 5-7 – all around 3 ohms

Does this mean the motor is likely OK and the problem is probably somewhere else?

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Thanks – I am thinking about starting again…

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OK- thanks- have had a look, and it’s definitely the pump. The impeller is stiff and graunchy so the bearings have disintegrated. The annoying things is the impeller is a sealed plastic unit which easily separates from the coil windings and electrics – but as far as I can see you have to buy the whole thing. If only someone would sell just the impeller…

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