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Re: Zanussi ZWF1431W bearing replacement?
Martin wrote:T_i_m I wonder if you have taken photographs of the various stages of your project to share them with us and anyone that may take your approach in the future?
If so do please lets us see them 😀
Thanks!
No, I didn’t Martin sorry. I suppose I wasn’t sure if this was going to be a goer etc? 🙁
I’ll get my daughter to take a pic of what you can still see from the top (especially as I now have the soap tray out and stripped down for a good cleaning), might be enough to see what I did.
All the best ..
T i m
Re: Zanussi ZWF1431W bearing replacement?
Penguin45 wrote:The black stains are actually in the surface of the rubber – they may fade slightly, but you won’t get rid of them.
Regular SERVICE WASH is the only real solution.
Penguin45.
Ok, I can live with the look (as most of it is inside the bellows, either side of the centre) as long as it isn’t harmfull in any way?
All the best ..
T i m
Re: Zanussi ZWF1431W bearing replacement?
kwatt wrote:I don’t think Jim meant it the way you appear to have taken the comment Tim, you have to remember that we have to also consider the next few hundred people that stumble over this thread.
I took it ok K, maybe I should have put in a smiley or two! 😉
I was genuinely questioning the idea of just leaving it as is .. and asking if that was considered ok ….?
Once bacteria forms it’s a nightmare to get rid of, I must ask Craig who went to Uni and studied bugs and stuff to write a definitive piece on it sometime but, the short of it is, once they take hold they are almost impossible to get rid off. Bleach etc only staves it off and holds it at bay though, it never destroys all trace, some of the little blighters always survive.
Ok thanks. So, a new door seal then .. or am I bolting the stable door here?
[quote:3hsvz41d]Pictures would be interesting though I have to say. 😉
Of the mould K?
All the best ..
T i m
Re: Zanussi ZWF1431W bearing replacement?
cockney steve wrote:White vinegar 😉 YES! REALLY! you will probably also need to bleach as well, but white vinegar is good for windows,bathroom tiles and all sorts of stuff…kills black mould and is safe. 😀
Cool and I have some in a squirty dispenser from the pound shop .. used it quite a bit on the lime scale.
just run the machine with some old tea-towels or similar (or empty, even) to wash it out after treating.
Understood Steve. I did get a chance to de-scale the thing when I had it apart, the heater went back gleaming like a very gleamy thing! 😉
So, are you suggesting I might be able to remove the black stains with bleach? I’ve tried scrubbing it whilst wet with Cif (to reduce the risk of floaty spores etc) and whilst that helped it is still quite grim in there? This could be because the PO didn’t dry the seal out or leave the door ajar etc?
All the best ..
T i m
Re: Zanussi ZWF1431W bearing replacement?
iadom wrote:manky door seals 😉
Erm, thanks for that Iadom?
So, leave whatever culture has set-up home in there and just forget it?
All the best ..
T i m
Re: Zanussi ZWF1431W bearing replacement?
So,
Daughter and I put the machine together again today (I have been involving her in ‘stuff’ as part of a sort of extended practical life-education). 😉
All went fairly well, no screws stripped, spare or missing.
We first did a couple of rinses to give the machine a general clean out, then spun the stuff that was in the AWD12 when it died yesterday.
We are now doing a full load (still with the back and top off so we can keep an eye on things) but so far it’s looking good .
So, the door seal is quite stained. Should I get a new one and just ensure it’s wiped out after use (or do they all go the same way these days)?
All the best ..
T i m
Re: Zanussi ZWF1431W bearing replacement?
cockney steve wrote:I highly doubt that ANY grease is significantly more detergent-resistant than any other 🙂
bet the bearings are all standard components….so they’ll be 1/8 to 3/8 -filled with HMP Lithium-based grease (ordinary grease!)
the most important part, as you keep telling people is the sleeve/ferrule/bush/spigot….whatever you call it……the surface the seal runs on.
Too highly polished,it will snag the seal-lip. too coarse a surface and it will rapidly wear or tear the seal…..so the surface -texture has to be just right for a molecular film of water to penetrate the seal/shaft interface and lubricate it.
Ok, so, I’ve partly packed behind the seal and between the bearings with that waterproof grease in the hope it will lubricate the seal lips now and again and also resist water ingress in general. It shouldn’t do any harm at least?
Yesterday I fitted a 12mm diameter neoprene seal in the existing seal grove and backed that up with some waterproof jointing compound / sealant / adhesive (CT1) before joining the tub halves together with 17 5mm ss bolts, washers and nylock nuts.
I have previously glued 3 x 5mm ss washer in little stacks over the bolt holes so they would act as spacers between the two tub halves, ensuring some of the sealant stayed in the joint and that the tubs didn’t close up too much, causing the drum to foul the inside of the front tub half.
Just now I trimmed the surplus sealant away, blocked all the pipe entry holes and with the tub assembly set up like a bucket, filled it up with cold water, so far so good. 😉
I’m just about to go and stick the graphics on the tank of the Honda CB “Two Fifty” I’m also doing up (so my mate can laquer over the top) and then back to re-assemble the washing machine (and the first test will be to spin the wet washing we have from when the AWD12 died). At least that will show if the whole thing will stay together without too much water about!
Watch this space .. oh, and if you see a lump of concrete fly past …. 😉
All the best ..
T i m
Re: AWD12 bearing job?
Penguin45 wrote:Sorry to hear the news, T_I_M – update us when you’re ready. Iadom’s right – we are actually quite fascinated.
Penguin45.
Ok, thanks on the MIL. She was a good ole stick but smoked most of her life. A life that may have been quite a bit longer if it hadn’t been for the emphysema. It finally happened very quickly in hospital and my wife and her eldest were there at the time. May she now RIP (peace without the oxygen machine and constant coughing).
Ok, I hope to pop the machine back together today ..
I noticed the door rubber is quite stained and reading here it seems there isn’t much you can do about it (short of buying a new one). I may well do that once I know it’s working again.
All the best ..
T i m
Re: AWD12 bearing job?
iadom wrote:
T_i_m wrote:
What, talk about that here and get told off .. I down’t fink so!
Told off, :rolls: Nay, there are a good many people longing to know how the project is progressing. 🙂
Jim.
Well, seeing as you asked ..
I have had the tub in half, cleaned everything up, new bearings and seal fitted (backed by white waterproof grease), pulley back on and was just considering the best way to joint the two halves back together again.
I was intending doing it yesterday but unfortunatly the wifes mother died.
In light of the Ariston exploding tonight, I decided to use some 12mm diameter neoprene, wedged deep into the std seal groove and then the joint, (bolt holes spaced apart with ss washers to replace the material sawn away when the tub was split) additionally sealed using some CT1 and bolted up.
Tomorrow I’ll put it all back together and let you know how I get on.
All the best ..
T i m
Re: AWD12 bearing job?
Looking at the diagrams it is the one with the bearings in a spider at the back of the drum.
Not that bad a job as long as the drum shaft is not damaged. Worth checking it out first. If the shaft is badly damaged then it would need a complete drum assy, almost £90 ex vat. 😯
Ah ok, well I’m not sure I’d want to spend any decent money on it, considering what it is etc.
Two different types of spider and also different bearing sizes so all in all, best strip it down first.
Ok, will do. I nearly started it tonight but that would be 3 machines in bits .. !
Removing the nut that secures the pulley is often a bit of a pain, a bit of heat then a few sharp blows with a knockometer usually breaks the loctite seal before your torx bit snaps. 😉
Yup, and nothing much to lose using a bit of heat ..
Oh BTW, make sure you have plenty of plasters or bandages handy.
Yeah, I read that here somewhere … I actually have to thin rubber gloves with fabric backs that are supposed to be cut resistant.
All the best ..
T i m
Re: AWD12 bearing job?
Penguin45 wrote:I’d get the cross piece out first and check the condition of the shaft. If it’s damaged…….. It’s a sealed tub! :rotfl:
No it’s not is it .. not another one?!?.. 🙁
Well I did the AEG from up the back so I know the routine if so.
What happened with “The Other One”?
Penguin45.
What, talk about that here and get told off .. I down’t fink so!
All the best ..
T i m
Re: ZWF1431W now a twin tub! 😉
cockney steve wrote:
Outer bearing was: 62062
[quote:35t15fn0] think you’ll find that’s a 6206 -Z (suffix is a single shield/seal , double-suffix =both sides )
Yeah, my bad Steve, can’t read my own writing and obviously wasn’t thinking either!
If you can’t drill a hole directly from outside tub to inside gap between front seal and front bearing, I’d suggest you assess grooving a “gutter” under the front bearing,to your drain-hole….that should be at least 1/4″ diameter,as the surface-tension of a bead of water will otherwise tend to plug the hole.
Understood. I can’t remember if there is enough ‘meat’ in the cast iron bearing carrier for something that big but if there isn’t (and assuming there isn’t a web to drill through that takes me to the outside) couldn’t I drill through the casting through into the back of the tub and out the back of the tub and bond in a length of stainless / rigid plastic tube or fill one of the internal webs with resin or summat?
forget Stainless bolts, cad/zinc plated/passivated will be fine….all the rest of the tinware in the cabinet is plated, isn’t it?
Look, I *like* stainless ok, and can probably find / buy stainless stuff easier than anything else (trade). And I’m not sure what the rest is? I think it’s either enamelled white steel, plastic, ally or stainless (like the one way hose clips). I think the only plated bits are the top support (although that’s quite big) and the springs.
Yes, the U-pol product appears to be the same as Sikaflex….U-pol is well known for “bog” (body-filler! ) in the motor-trade (aka “kipper” 😀
Good, as I have a tube of it in white. 😉
[quote/] erm, maybe you can get the mods to amalgamate all your threads on this machine? it’s getting “hunt the saga!
I wasn’t sure if my other questions were directly related to the other threads or if anyone would see them on the end of the first one? (but I’m happy for them to be anywhere!) 😉
All the best ..
T i m
Re: Zanussi ZWF1431W bearing replacement?
cockney steve wrote:
In case it’s different, the spares system I’m most familiar with (motorbikes) the same part and therefore part number could be used for many models over many years but only if it was the exact same (or functionally equivelent) component?
ha ha ! try the motor-trade! the Jaguar XJ series traced their lineage back through the Mark10….Ihad occasion to order some suspension mounts and the part-number was supersesde at EVERY model-change the component was used..NO cross-reference, so you had to laboriously look up each supersession, only to find it,too had been superseded….after half an hour you got the current number……..and found they were on back-order!
😉
All the best ..
T i m
Re: Sealed or Shielded bearings?
cockney steve wrote:yes! just like a waterpump on a car (that’s another racket! )…they also have a drain hole ,which I’d assumed would be your priority mod when you rework this “disposable “machine.
I was initially talking (previous post) about a hole between the two bearings rather than one between seal and first bearing but that latter might be more practical. Have any of the ‘better’ manufacturers used any of these approaches .. or what do THEY do to be able to put a 10 yr g’tee on a machine?
As regards your bonding…investigate “sikaflex”….if it’s good enough to bond car panels together,and fit windscreens, I’m sure it will bond a tub, PROVIDING the plastic is compatible!
Sikaflex is a i-part air -curing polyurethane sealant, -sticks better than s**t to an army-blanket 😆 I’ve stuck a piece of 22 gauge to an old windscreen, -torn the tin with Mole-grips,reduced the (laminated) glass to fragments,but the bond held firm!
Good stuff!. That sounds similar to the Tigerseal then. I’m going to to some test glueings with some silicone and Tigerseal on the tub. What sort of place would be likely to stock Sikaflex please Steve (I’m not that far from their HQ ar WGC) 😉
shielded bearings (tin) primarily for “large” dirt and grit exclusion…”seals” are “splashproof”a damp enclosure will hold the moisture which WILL permeate past these seals.
So sealed are marginally better than shielded for this role then, initially at least?
No-matter how much grease you TRY to pack in, the shaft is revolving, therefore there’s a shear-line running through the grease (not forgetting centrifugal force (centripetal for the pedantic!)…..so water will ,theoretically be able to go along the shaft…..back to plan A-slinger and drain-hole…..or you COULD connect your drain-hole to an aquarium-pump and use a sealed back-bearing, thus the bearings would enjoy positive pressureand the seal would press more firmly against the shaft….but that would make it wear quicker…the shaft surface HAS to be “rough” enough to hold lubricant for the seal!(and they’re really oil-seals, not water seals, except the flat-faced one on my current hoover which bears against a ceramic washer bonded to the spider/shaft interface.
Understood and thanks Steve (interesting stuff). 😉
All the best ..
T i m
Re: Sealed or Shielded bearings?
cockney steve wrote:Tim, I’d suggest that 3 loads a week for 1 year would be considerably cheaper than the launderette!
😉
Sealed bearings “aren’t”…tin shields or rubber seals, makes no difference,there’s a gap between the inner-race and the seal-lip otherwise it would get “friction burns”
So, out of interest, what is the difference then please?
many washers used to have a drain-hole between the drum-seal and front bearing…many a rusty streak has been seen down the back of the tub !
Like car water pumps .. 😉
IMO, you should consider a “flinger”-basically ,it’s a washer which is a tight fit on the shaft, but smaller than the bearing…it would go between the seal and the front bearing (maybe a shim-ring between the inner -race and the flinger?)
Any water penetrating the seal will then be thrown clear before it can percolate along to the bearing.
But where would the water go next Steve? I can understand how it might distract it from the inner race / seal area but only till that void became full of water anyway? Maybe we should drain water from there in any case, make it a ‘wet’ (as in drips) area (like some folk do with the stern tubes on their boats)?
I don’t think extra grease will help–maybe waterpump grease or calcium-oxide based “white brake grease”, would stand a fighting chance-but normal Lithium grease absorbs water and soon emulsifies,thus rusting the bearing.
But might that space (back of seal to front of bearing) nearly filled with waterproof grease not delay water ingress a while? After all, it’s not going in there under any pressure? I have a tub of this:
“Millergrease D180. Specially designed to lubricate plain bearings, open gear, wire rope and all sliding surface applications
resistant greases where water wash-off action is a problem with conventional greases. Highly resistant to mechanical shearing action and oscillation. Ideal underwater greases or for plain surface applications exposed to adverse wet weather conditions which will remove more conventional greases. The smooth consistency of D180 makes it easy to apply either by automatic greasing equipment or manually.”I got that because it’s specificially going to try to form a waterproof barrier between bearing and outer seal, rather than lubricate the bearings per-se.
Your solution is stainless-steel or ceramic bearings…research bearings on the net, you’ll find that equivalent s/s bearings are downrated considerably but I don’t think the loading is anything like max in the average washer anyway! [/qoute]
I did check out ss Steve but the cost was too much to risk for this particular project. My goal here is just to see if I can rebuld a sealed tub machine and have it spin at 1400 RPM without sounding like a Chinook or wetting itself (oh, and have it last more than a year after that). I also have a tube of White ‘TigerSeal’ at the ready for the tub halves. I just need to get a suitable hex driven drill (to get down low and parallel to the tub sides) to drill out the bolt lugs and ss bolts to join the tub together again. Dave has sent the seal and I got the bearings from Steve at http://www.simplybearings.co.uk.
[quote:33q0sg48] I’m following your saga with interest..spent many years repairing “sealed” throwaway stuff. sometimes,obselescence or non-availability make it a necessity or cost -effective alternative to scrapping.
Thanks fellow Womble. 😉
All the best ..
T i m
