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Hi Iadom, thanks for the fill guide!
the powder is ¾ gone but a sludgy mess remains like there is not enough oomph to wash it away.
yes cold fill only and has been for as long as I can remember so not a new thing.
strange.Thanks Murv, Dave but the sensor just slides into a rubber seal? I’ll pull the connector off of it but I don’t think I’m going to find a nut?
hopefully it’s this piece you were both referring to? White connector block with red and black cables https://photos.app.goo.gl/4NwQsdBq2xN4YP5NA (sorry about the link, tried adding the picture but the groups quota is full or something?)
annoyingly it stop during the heat up as it all expands then leaks again during rinses.
or did you mean tighten up the heater element nuts at either end?
cheersHi Dave,
sorry I forgot to update things.
I bought an alternative pn to the one linked but is on the list of replaced by.
Freezer now freezes at -22 and the control wheel seems useless but it’s back working enough to be used.
thanks again for all your help, now I have to start a new one on my washing machine for some hopefully quick advice.
cheers
Jez
Hi Dave, I didn’t have a variable resister so I ripped some resistors of an old CB I kept and threw in a 14k ohm no joy, solid red light as before and cooling down past -22c
46k turns off the fault light and the freezer was at 2c this morning but that could be natural cooling down not maintained.
i have both running in series to see what happens next.
some of the old american freezer tables suggest nearly 80k ohms for around -15 ish but connecting 2 46k in series didn’t start the compressor.
this is all with the temp control dial set at -18c.Jez
Thanks again Dave.
I had a look over the board with my x10 and found a dry joint on one leg of the triac so will reflow that then work on adding resistance.
I’m assuming I’m reconnecting the sensor but adding the resistance inline to increase the reading given to the board and see if the freezer shuts off?
https://drive.google.com/file/d/18V8YudJ5BUL2WQtfGfS0gz-9pQL_SNYP/view?usp=drivesdkJez
Hi Dave, looks like the board is triac controlled.
if the board registers a solid red fault like with continuous running with the sensor plugged in and timed running with the sensor unplugged and flashing red fault light can we assume it is out of range on resistance?https://drive.google.com/file/d/18Gi1FmH51dhPMrgaFLgrYpbvY-yBeTX7/view?usp=drivesdk
https://drive.google.com/file/d/18HX2MLWZh-cjCyw9txeGqKkeTeGXtdGX/view?usp=drivesdk
https://drive.google.com/file/d/18AV_hZcoQGBX0_KwV-VSrjsP7XybMiCz/view?usp=drivesdkMorning Dave,
so yesterday I took the lid off and disconnected the sensor. The freezer is now flashing red fault light and seems to be working in timed mode.
the sensor measured 2.02K ohms at about 10c before switching back on. Circuit board appears ok visually with no burnt components or dry joints that I can see.
I checked it during the day and got these
2.07@4c
2.44@-7c
2.46@-13c
2.55@-22c
have I lucked out with a sensor problem?
thanks
Jezelectrofix wrote:try unplugging the sensor and see if it goes into timed mode
Dave
Will do Dave thanks, I’ll let you know!
Sound More like the board as it’s a solid red light, no flashing.
I’ll have it apart and check the sensor and look at the board and see if somethings given up. Other than that it may be time to lay it to rest. 🙁
I appreciate the info again
JezRe: Hotpoint TCD970
Just to feedback that the cap change worked like a charm and we are back in business.
Thanks again Murv and the ukwhitegoods shop!
Cheers
Jez
