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Trilobite
ParticipantRe: Bosch dishwasher SGS09L08 not draining
I have this machine and no major problems so far.
The drain pump does work in surges, it is a bit disconcerting!
When totally drained:
Power OFF, remove filters. Use absorbent sponge/cloth to mop up the excess water that always remains in the sump.
A small cover may be seen 2- 3 inches, secured by a single Torx screw; remove it. Cover lifts off, revealing the drain impeller. Check to make sure that NOTHING is caught in this area (seeds, broken glass, labels, wire ties, etc).
Looking toward the rear of the impeller, you should be able to see a black rubber flap that slots down into place; this lifts out (a blunt, small flat screwdriver, or similar object may assist).
Rinse under running water and replace.
Clean the filters under hot running water.
There is also a transfer tube in the sump wall, at the 6 O’clock position. It leads off left, curving backwards and upwards. This feeds tap water down into the sump (ie a fill tube). It can accumulate grease and food soils. A narrow bottle-brush and a VERY GENTLE rodding action will remove most deposits.
Replace all parts in reverse order.
Purchase Dishwasher Cleaner (FINISH £2-£3, or ALDI’s own brand £2 for a twin pack! They appear to come from the same factory).
Remove the sticky peel-label on the lid to reveal the wax seal, place upside-down in cutlery basket (it DOES fit, though rather snugly; inserting it a centimetre or two into the cutlery basket is enough).
Run the machine on “AUTO SUPER WASH”; this will allow the machine to use the maximum temperature and intensive action. Wax seal dissolves at high wash temperature. (It will not be affected by the warm heated prerinse on this cycle).
When cycle is complete, discard the empty bottle.
You may have to repeat this cleaning cycle in order to clean the drain matrix, which forms part of the fill matrix/heat exchanger assembly on the left-hand side of the machine. This drain matrix has been known to clog with deposits.
I tend to use the AUTO SUPER WASH cycle for virtually all loads, as I’m not convinced grease is properly flushed away at lower temperatures.
Trilobite
ParticipantRe: Bosch SGV4313 Detergant not dissolving
I would be cautious with these dangly airfresheners/deodorisers.
As you have found, they get in the way of the spray arm and/or dispenser flap.
I have also found that they impart their fragrances, particularly onto plastic utensils, such as food containers and chopping boards.
As such, I would not recommend any of them.
Trilobite
ParticipantRe: Hoover New Wave Making Strange Sounds
The programming is probably corrupted. Possibly by electrical interference from the motor (I think that was one of the reasons given in the Hoover Service Data Book).
Best thing to do with this machine is scrap it.
As to your parents’ previous machine, it might have been a Hoover ‘Electronic 1100’, A3110.
Trilobite
ParticipantRe: Henry
Once upon a time, “Built in Britain” meant quality; whereas “Made in China” was synonymous with “rubbish”. The general concensus these days, is German goods = good; anywhere else = bad.
An awful lot of products are now manufactured in China, and not always to the best quality. Vax products, once made in Droitwich, now China.
Hoover cleaners are similarly made in China. As are some Electrolux.As for the floor nozzles being made in Germany, this is quite common and usually done to satisfy manufacturing requirements. I once had a Hoover ‘Aquamaster’ 3in1 machine, and although it was made in the Cambuslang factory, the floor nozzle was made in Germany. The floor nozzle was virtually identical to the Vax version, apart from the extension tube fitting – Hoover used the locking rings and ‘pips’ in those days, none of the push-fit stuff. The Vax ‘litter-pickers’ (velvet pad inserts, to pick up pet hair) fitted the Hoover head perfectly.
Similarly, electric power-nozzles for the Hoover ‘Sensotronic’ cylinder cleaners, went through several designs, starting with the original Hoover ‘Electrokinetic’, then the Hoover ‘Turbo 500’, then a nozzle sourced from Vorwerk in Germany.
So “horse-trading” between manufacturers does go on, as it does in any other market.
Incidentally, I gather that TTI, a Chinese company, owns Hoover (USA; as owned previously by Maytag), DirtDevil and Vax.
Trilobite
ParticipantRe: Smelly Washing machine, solutions not working.
Try using ARIEL or PERSIL in the GREEN boxes, they are ‘biological’ detergents (enzymes), but also employ oxygen based bleach to sanitise the machine and its laundry.
Run the machine empty, with the above detergent(s), on the 90 degrees Celsius programme. You may have to repeat this process several times.
Liquids and ‘colour’ detergents do not sanitise the laundry (no bleach) – you might also notice that sweaty odours are not properly removed from shirts and blouses when using these inferior detergents.
White items require the power of bleach to stay white, or they will start to ‘grey’.
Trilobite
ParticipantRe: bosch v454…water pouring out
It could be the way the water sprays down from the roof of the soap box.
My sister has a Candy that sometimes leaks from the powder drawer. I had a look at the water flow pattern and most of the time it fell straight down into the drawer. Occasionally though, the water would spray outwards in a ‘curtain’. This was at an angle that allowed water to breach the lip of the drawer, then trickle under the drawer handle fascia, and down the machine’s front panel. Cleaning the offending roof channel had no effect whatsoever.
Trilobite
ParticipantRe: AEG 86741 Mould in Powder Tray
I had an AEG that had a mouldy drawer problem. Like you, I was forever cleaning it. That machine lasted 3 years, then the bearings knackered up. Every second or third wash was done at 60 degrees, yet the mould still reappeared. I came to the conclusion that steam from the wash tub was condensing in the powder drawer area, exacerbating the problem.
A Zanussi replaced it, and it too has occasional mould issues in the drawer area. This particular machine has an awkwardly designed soap box that allows mould to grow where you cannot get at it easily.
Trilobite
ParticipantRe: Powder vs Liquid vs Tablets?
Oh, and as for the ‘colour’ detergents: they can be as useless as liquids when it comes to removing under-arm sweat stains and B.O. The oxygen bleach of the standard detergents is required to neutralise the bacteria.
Trilobite
ParticipantRe: Powder vs Liquid vs Tablets?
There are indeed powders that are “Non-Bio” yet still contain oxygen-based bleach.
They are: PERSIL Non-Bio (blue box), ARIEL Non-Bio (blue box), and FAIRY (pale blue box).
Fairy has softeners added, yet some people cannot tolerate anything other than Persil. “WHICH?” recently gave Persil Non-bio a good rating for cleaning ability; better than the other non-bios.
It is more likely that people are allergic to the perfume ingredients, as fragrances tends linger in laundry these days.
Trilobite
ParticipantRe: Bosch SGS4452GB/01
Try running the dishwasher empty, but use a dishwasher cleaner (liquid or tablets), as previously mentioned. Run it on the intensive / pots ‘n’ pans / superwash (65 degrees C or above). You may have to repeat this a few times. It is a far cheaper and easier option than fiddling with the internals. Make sure the filters are clean before you run the cleaning cycles.
I have a Bosch Logixx Automatic, that typically displays “Finished in 2hrs 30 mins” for the automatic super wash.
Last night it was put through two cleaning cycles with tablet-based descaler/cleaner, on the super wash programme.
Tonight, it miraculously was displaying for a full load, “Finished in 2hrs”. It had never read this low before.
Trilobite
ParticipantRe: question regarding bosch logixx SGS69L12GB
The programmes are set to deliver A-rated wash and speedy cycles, at the expense of the energy rating. To achieve the ‘A’ energy rating, you apparently have to engage the “Eco Wash” option. This will mean that the programmes will take longer to complete, but will follow efficiency parameters.
On previous machines, the situation was reversed: the programmes were set up to be the most energy efficient, had long cycle times and you had to engage the “Reduced Time” option yourself.
Trilobite
ParticipantRe: Oh no!
The cylinder cleaner production was nabbed from Cambuslang in the early Eighties, and Dijon got to manufacture the (then) new ‘Sensotronic’ range of cleaners.
The cylinder cleaner manufacturing returned to Cambuslang in the 1990s, with the ‘Alpina’ range which replaced the ‘Sensotronics’.
The last I heard was around 2001, when a BBC documentary highlighted Cambuslang managerial problems (was it “Back to the Floor” ?). Candy wanted to switch production to Portugal, for their new cleaner (possibly the ‘Sensory’ series).
The factory narrowly missed that disaster.
Trilobite
ParticipantRe: New washer dryer
I would be cautious of Hoover appliances.
They are built in Britain, but with Italian (Candy) parts.
There have been problems in the past with clogging of ducts in the Hoover washerdriers, according to other posters on this forum.
There has apparently been a lack of information concerning technical assistance, for non-Hoover personnel (Joe Public included).
I have noticed that Hoover Italy has certain machines for sale (top-end dishwasher), that are not available in the UK. We have to make do with mid-range models.
Poor show, all round.
Trilobite
ParticipantRe: Worriedabout ny new dishwasher Borsch SRS55L22GB
There are a few things you need to know about the Bosch dishwashers, in order to get the best out of them.
The Bosch machines dry by condensing moisture out of the wash tank, onto the left-hand wall, by means of the heat exchanger / fill matrix. They DO NOT have ‘active drying’ systems like fans or heaters. (The heater used to heat the wash and rinse waters, is used solely for those functions). Because of this condensing method, you HAVE TO USE rinse aid, and it HAS to be set correctly. Adjust the rinse aid dispenser to the mid point setting (usually 3 or 4).
Activating the ‘intensive dry’ option raises the temperature of the final rinse (and might prolong the drying time).
I find that I wash a load in the evening, and leave the machine for up to an hour after (with the door still closed). Then before going to bed, open the door and switch off the machine, and LEAVE THE MACHINE DOOR AJAR, WITH THE DISHES INSIDE. In the morning, come down to beautifully dry dishes.
Trilobite
ParticipantRe: Hoover washing machine overheats
I honestly would not bother with getting the machine repaired. Purchasing a new machine would make economic sense, as:
(a) The ‘New Wave’ spare parts are apparently becoming obsolete.
(b) Modern machines have a larger capacity.
(c) A new machine will have a full guarantee. (You might manage to get the old one fixed, but who’s to say another component might not fail?)
(d) After 15 years and all those ‘Spin Bursts’ and ‘Dynamic Spin-Rinses’, I would bet that the motor is on the way out.
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