Forum Replies Created
-
Posts
-
Re: BOSCH WAE2416S knocking whilst spining
The noise might actually be from the suspension system in the Bosch machine. My mother’s machine makes a similar noise. I think it is down to two factors:
1. The Bosch machine has a relatively poor pre-spin distribution technique; I’ve seen far better on some competitor machines. A load of towels will 90{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} of the time, bunch up, causing an out-of-balance load, with excessive vibration and noise. Try mixing the load with smaller articles: shirts, underwear, etc.
2. The floor could be to blame. If the machine is on a suspended wooden floor the machine will wobble on the spin cycle. A bouncy wooden floor will amplify any vibration from the machine.
Re: Bosch SGS09A02GB/11 Logixx noisy pump/loss of pressure
Hi there,
SUN tablets I have used; but of the “Professional” variant. These were sold in boxes of 100 tablets. Claimed to have glasscare function.
When they came out at first, the tablets were teardrop shaped. Nowadays they are rectangular.
They definately use enzymes, oxygen bleach and possibly a manganese-based bleaching activator to improve the cleaning performance. These were of the ‘detergent alone’ type (not 3in1, etc). I think SUN now has multifunction tablets available.
I found them to be effective, not too bad concerning foaming; but I thought that they left an odour on crockery, and a smell in the machine.
I gather that the SUN brand is no longer the brand of choice in Britain; that went to FINISH. I believe that SUN is still a prime choice in Ireland, and also the Netherlands. This will probably be where your detergent was meant to be sold.
I have a pack of SUN powder that has a Netherlands phone number on it!
Re: Black ‘gunge’ type stuff in washing machine
Be careful of black mould! It releases spores, as all moulds do, which can be inhaled. They have ended up embedded in peoples lungs where they cause respiratory problems and can even grow to large obstructive sizes!
A solution of water and chlorine bleach inactivates the mould spores, so this would be suitable for soaking the shower head, and cleaning the powder drawer on the washing machine.
Squirt bleach up under the toilet rim (DO NOT MIX with acidic toilet cleaners!).
For the TOILET CISTERN, if mould is present in it, you can obtain those ‘drop-in cistern blocks’. Look for the ones that are coloured white (not those pretty blue tablets) and have “dichloroisocyanurate”, or “chlorine-based bleach” ingredients. The blocks will gradually dissolve over a period of time, killing the mould and cleaning the loo as it flushes.
Re: Bosch SGS09A02GB/11 Logixx noisy pump/loss of pressure
Bosch machines can suffer from fill problems: yours will not be excepted.
Power off, before fiddling with anything!
Remove the filters. In the sump area, at the 6 O’clock position, you will notice a small hole tangentially set into the sump wall. This tube leads off left, curving back and upwards, to the fill matrix assembly. This tube has a tendency to become clogged with fatty/food deposits.
Using a small diameter bottle brush, rod out the tube GENTLY, rinsing it frequently. This may sort the problem. If not, disassembly of the side panel is required. Sometimes the fill pressure-vessel also becomes blocked. A blocked fill tube could also prevent the heater switching in, due to low water levels.
Conversely, the heater itself may have blown. Does the water heat up?
I myself, have the successor to this model (SGS09L08), the main difference being the ‘VarioFlex Baskets’. I have found that tablets do not work properly with my machine: they can cause over foaming, in which case the spray arm diverter valve seems to have trouble switching between the two baskets.
The older Chlorine-based detergents are still available, and they do not foam up anywhere near as much as the modern powders and tablets.
The liquid detergents use chlorine bleach, so would be a suitable choice.
The chlorine powders are sold through Cash & Carry’s, and Farmers’ Supplies Wholesalers. These powders typically come in 5kg and larger sizes; and are known as ‘Professional Detergents’ for hoteliers and the catering industry. Typical brands are: SUN, FINISH and BRYTA. From what I have seen personally, the BRYTA brand seems to be available in the smaller size; the others in the bigger size. Smaller sizes are better: detergents can lose their efficiency simply by sitting on a shelf for more than six months.
The chlorine bleach is more energetic at removing stains, such as tea or the dreaded tomato sauce. Stainless steel can come up brilliantly. Crockery has less of a smell, due to the absence of perfumes that the modern formulations use.
The downside is that glasses and fine decorations can suffer from etching and fading. (Using a separate ‘FINISH Protector’ clipped to the basket might help to counteract such effects). Some people may object to the smell of chlorine that is emitted during the wash process. Starchy food (mashed potatoes, rice or pasta) can be a little more difficult for chlorine detergents to remove successfully.
When using powder or liquids, remember to use salt in the reservoir, according to the local water conditions.
Also use Rinse Aid. It has several effects, in addition to assisting the drying process. Such effects are to prevent any particulates being re-deposited back onto the crockery. And being slightly acidic, it neutralises any detergent that might have made it through the rinse cycles.
Re: Which tabletop dishwasher should i buy?
There is a Bosch tabletop machine still available, slightly modified to allow better energy efficiency, and cleaning performance. They are good machines, spare parts are readily available.
The Hotpoint model is no longer available, due to Indesit now owning the Hotpoint brand.
If using a tabletop machine, USE POWDER DETERGENT, and separate Rinse Aid. Use salt in a ‘hard water’ area.
Tablets of any type are too concentrated for these machines, and will cause overfoaming with detrimental results to cleaning performance, and possibly the machine (flooding).
STAY AWAY from the foreign (Chinese) machines: the ones with the little plastic ‘window’, on sale in the electrical stores. There have been problems with lack of available spares, and the window leaks after a bit of time.
Re: 3 ENGINEERS LATER AND STILL NOT WORKING CAN ANYONE HELP
Buy a decent machine, like a Bosch; and stay away from machines that are sold as weekend bargains, or come from China.
Re: Bosch WFB2004/16 FD7711 Not spinning
gegsy wrote:…as there is no spare for loom or motor plug …
GregWhy are the wiring looms always the first things to become obsolete, in manufacturers’ inventories?
Re: Bosch Logixx (Auto Option) Problem
Open the door, and look at the top edge of the door inner, near the catch. You should see an etched model number beginning SGS*****GB/**. This is what the engineers on this forum require.
Is the wash water hot? How far up the tub does the water level reach? (ie; it should fill to the bottom of the salt reservoir cap).
If it does not reach this level, there could be a blockage in the water metering section.
Search for Bosch fill problems; there are plenty of postings about this condition, and its remedy.
Re: rubber heater seal come away from drum BOSCH
Could it have been damaged during manufacture/assembly, by over-tightening the centre nut?
(I think Hoover once made such a comment, relating to the plastic tub “New Wave” range).
Re: Hotpoint DC 28 Won’t start
Have you checked the filter that is built into the water inlet valve? (You have to remove the hose to check this).
When there is a major plumbing problem, it is advisable to run the cold taps (ones that are directly connected to the rising mains) fully open, for several minutes, in order to flush out grit and other particulates, and soiled water from such maintenance. Debris can clog the valve filter, or even jam the valve. Water Boards usually advise against using washing machines and dishwashers as fill problems can occur. Contamination of the water softener resin is another possible problem.
Some machines have an “Aqua Stop” hose, which has the valve built into a block on the end of the hose (the end you fix to the tap). Such a system usually has the filter (also known as a strainer) at this end, incorporated into a sealing washer.
Other manufacturers use the ‘belt & braces’ principal, whereby a valve filter and a hose filter, are present.
Re: Miele W4144WPS vs ISE Machine
kwatt wrote:
Trilobite wrote:
Would the ISE 10 actually be sourced from Swedish ASKO? If so, I want one – I’ll have to start saving now!Yes it is being built for us by ASKO.
Personally I consider it to be the best front loading washing machine in the world, period. With the ideology of ISE behind it, unbeatable IMO.
K.
I’ve seen comments from American forums generally praising the ASKO dishwashers; and European users praising the washers.
I saw a brochure for the USA market, and the dishwashers seem to have more steel about their interior, including spray-arm feed pipes, etc.
In my experience, plastic components (spray arms, filters) just do not last as long as metal ones.
Is there any chance that you may also look into a suitable (ASKO-sourced) dishwasher? Preferably one that can really blast off the starch-based food residues; pasta seems to leave a ‘plaque’ on pans and plates that even the enzyme detergents and intensive washes cannot properly remove. 😉
Ps. I’m somewhat intrigued by the mention of the Miele W4144WPS having a steel tub; I saw an article aimed at the American market, which made comment on the new ‘integrated tub weights moulded directly into the tub’. This, to me, brings up visions of a moulded polypropylene outer tub. It would not be the first time that a manufacturer’s customer-care department has been mis-informed.
Re: Out of Balance load detection
There is usually a tacho coil, and a magnet which is attached to the motor shaft. The electronics monitor the number of pulses per second, according to speed, and compare it to pre-programmed sets of values. Any deviation will cause the spin profile to be reduced, or aborted altogether.
Some older machines also had a weighted microswitch attached to the tub itself. Strong vibrations would cause the microswitch to open and close, thus keeping the machine at a safe, but still efficient speed. Computer machines could slightly increase the speed until the vibrations became excessive, then reduce the speed again. Hoover tended to use such systems.
Re: Miele W4144WPS vs ISE Machine
kwatt wrote:See what you’ve done now Jim! 😉
SDM,
The ISE 10 will be available late June, early July assuming that all goes to plan and there are no delays introduced.
In effect it is a new range, produced in Sweden that, in a domestic setting, carries a full insurance backed 10 year parts and labour warranty, hence ISE 10. It is an AAA 1600rpm 6Kg machine that is built, frankly, like a brick outhouse. The design life is 20 years and every component is rated to withstand in excess of 8000 cycles, I would expect at least 15 years of life in a normal domestic setting at the very least.
Simple control system in plain English, front drop down door with all the right boxes ticked. I’ve still to confirm it with further testing (which I am in the middle of) but a proper cotton 40 wash time will be about one hour, not a quickwash. The quickwash will take about 35 minutes.
The pricing is not yet totally set in stone, but expect just under £800. However with the build, features and warranty, it’s actually extremely good value.
Let me put it this way, I’ve worked in this industry for 20 plus years and there’s two machines that when asked for the very best built washer I will tell people about, the Miele, for which I’ve already outlined my reservations on and, this machine. The ISE 10 I believe is better than a Miele in performance and build whilst being just streets ahead on service and backup.
We will also at the same time be launching the condenser dryer to match with a stacking kit available. 😉
K.
Would the ISE 10 actually be sourced from Swedish ASKO? If so, I want one – I’ll have to start saving now!
