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Hi all,
It seems this has been previously touched on but I am at a complete dead-end with this machine and *just* found out about this forum a 20 minutes ago or so. Basically as the title states, I bought the aforementioned BEKO washing machine around 3 years ago and one night out of the blue it just wouldn’t turn on. Now, being an engineer myself (automotive) I decided I was going to fix it because I assumed it couldn’t be anything major as the missus had used the machine the night before.
Went for the usual suspects first (fuses, etc) and got to the conclusion it had to be the main PCB board which steps down the voltage and feeds the machine as I was getting no power at all anywhere (nothing visible in the main screen either, no noise, etc)
Bought a second hand board online and went on to install but unfortunately no luck (unsure of the condition but the board looked new to me). Tested the power system as well, the EMI filter but no luck…
Just wondering if anyone could maybe give me a pointer or two before I throw it in the bin and never buy BEKO again in my life.
Regards and thank you in advance for any answers.
RMC
post a picture of your original board
need it big enough so i can look at components so you may have to post it on google pic or similar and post a public linkalso your secondhand board may not work as it may have different software. these days a lot of board are the same its the software that alters. we have had engineers order board that donr seem to work only to find another part number for the same machine that does work. The only difference. Software
Dave
left hand side of the board
looks like D7 its a diode
check if its short circuitthis seem to be an up and coming problem
Dave
Hi again.
As I mentioned on my second post, I am indeed getting a 0V reading across the diode whereas usually you would read a volt drop of around .2/.3 depending on the type of material used for the diode.
I have just bought a set of 100V, 2A rectifying diodes to replace this one to see if this fixes the issue. I’ll report back.
All solved.
Replaced D7 with a schottkey rectifying diode (100v, 2A) and it seemed to do the job.
For anyone suffering from the same , test your D7 diode and go from there.
Cheers Dave,
its becoming a common fault on these machine but saying that have just had the same fault on a Beko condensor tumble dryer
Dave
Hi Dave,
Thank you so much for your D7 Diode advice. I bought my Beko WDR7543121 Washer Dryer in November 2017 and it stopped working October 2020. Completely dead as if the main fuse had blown. Beko Repair Line wanted £175 (£14.58/month) for a 12 month plan to get an Engineer out. I signed up and 3 days later the Engineer came and advised it was an electrical problem but there were no spare PCB’s in the country due to the pandemic. I looked for a new decent machine and had almost resigned myself to spending £700 for one when I decided to search for a way to fix the problem myself and came upon your advice. I ordered a Schottky rectifying diode (100V 2A) STPS2H100 from Farnell on next day delivery (pack of 5). Changed Diode D7 when they arrived. Washer Dryer working perfectly again which is great as it does not get used a lot and looked perfect inside and out. I also managed to cancel the repair policy with Beko on the basis that they could not effect a repair for me. Thanks again 🙂I’ve had the same fault today and have disassembled the machine this afternoon. I’ve ordered the D7’s so I’ll put them in and report back. Fingers crossed.
Updated with outcome: Yes, it was the D7, i forgot to update, but after they arrived, i de-soldered the old and added the new and it is still running A ok to date! Thanks for the fix – saved me a tonne!
I have the same issue on a WDX8543130, but the D7 diode is not open circuit. Is it likely to still be the culprit?
Also does the component need to look exactly the same? I have traced part number STPS2H100 but with case type is DO-41 instead of DO-204AL. Looks like a blob on a wire rather than a cylinder. See https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/rectifier-diodes-schottky-diodes/7146901/ Will that make any difference?
its a diode so did you reverse the meter leads to see if it only conducts one way
if it conducts both ways, you can unsolder one leg to be certain, then if its faulty
try
https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/recti…5232/?sra=pstk
DaveI’ll check again, but pretty sure I only get a resistance reading one way on all the diodes on the board.
That diode on the link you gave is not a Shottky diode and is 150V 2A, not 100V 2A, does it matter?Yes sorry although we know someone who has used these.
Schottky diodes are fast recovery for uses in high frequency power supplies so yes it needs to be. Think original diode is 1a so if you can up that a bit it may help future failure
case does not matter only spec of device
https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/rectifier-diodes-schottky-diodes/8129320/
Dave
Brilliant thank you, Dave.
I checked the diodes again. D7 has a resistance reading both ways. The others only one way. So it appears this Shottky is shot 😉 and I’m off to order from that link.
Cheers,
Lucie
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