candy alise 105 changing bearings

[dpm]

If he’s cut into it to weaken it, I’d say it’s time to go a bit deeper- dremel?, and then big hammer and drift. Might be worth trying to drive a fine tapered wedge down between outer race and housing. There’s a risk of damaging the housing I know, but if the outer *is* loctited in place for example, it might be the only way of breaking the bond…

[Martin]

Re: candy alise 105 changing bearings

What is it Victor Meldrew says “I cannot believe it!”

I posted a copy of Evrens ‘pm’ to me in the hope whilst I was out painting the town, you guys would sort it. Before that, I offered to buy him a new machine, just to be rid of this bl**dy thread 👿

(I swear it’s a wind-up you know)

Anyway, its early morning, I have a splitting headache, I’ve got a Bosch SGS heater unit AND WM62 bearings to replace this morning. So! before I head off here’s how to remove those bits off INNER bearing sleeve from the outer tub hub.

Using a long drill bit, drill a small hole about 5mm deep just behind the sleeve. Enlarge that hole (but no deeper) with another drill bit a few sizes bigger so that it exposes the edge of the sleeve sufficiently in order to get a sharp edged cold chisel into that groove you have created. Whack the chisel with a 1 kg lump hammer and have someone stationed at the other side of the room to catch the flying sleeve before it takes a chunk out of the wallpaper!!!!

Can I leave you with that?????

:rotfl:

Martin

[yurtesen]

kwatt wrote:Read back to what I originally posted. 😉

Seen this many, many times and as I said it’s nigh on impossible to remove it without terminally damaging the shaft. Trust me, we tried allsorts including having special drawers made up etc.

K.

Actually I got the inner bearing out by using an about 20cm diameter cutting tool which fit there nicely. When the bearing was almost cut, I put a screwdriver in between and hit it so that it will expand, and it got broken, then it was easy to remove it by simply turning around slowly and pulling up.

The outher race was difficult really. I was cutting it and cutting it and cutting it and it didnt go out. Until I decided to use a different kind of machine. The drill I had have 1500rpm and I used a 4500rpm machine and it finished the job in 20minutes 🙂 I believe I didnt destroy anything vital 🙂

I will soon post the pictures of the races etc. 🙂

Evren

[yurtesen]

I tried almost everything which was suggested here. Really great suggestions but it is difficult to find the equipment to heat up the bearing race etc. very quicikly.

Drilling into the bearing race didnt work because bearing is really hard and I think I needed a very high rpm machine to start getting into the race.

So the cutting approach was the best. With a cutting tool of diameter 16-24cm I could cut the bearing quite nicely. Although it was difficult to see how deep I cut. So I had to cut it a while then hit it and see if it breaks or not then cut more and hit etc. But in the end it just went off 🙂

[Martin]

yurtesen wrote:Drilling into the bearing race didnt work because bearing is really hard

Not drilling into the bearing????…..drilling NEXT to the bearing ❗

Martin

[yurtesen]

Martin wrote:

yurtesen wrote:
Drilling into the bearing race didnt work because bearing is really hard

Not drilling into the bearing????…..drilling NEXT to the bearing ❗

Martin

I meant bearing race. Was I wrong? Where was I suppose to drill actually? Wouldnt it be bad to drill next to the bearing race? am I mistaken or the ‘bearing’ is not the inner race and outer race with balls etc., the complete system?

Anyhow, its too late for drilling now. I got the bearings out. The pictures are below 🙂

Wonder tools :p
http://master.titol.fi/~yurtesen/CIMG0833.JPG

Inner bearing’s inner race’s place on shaft etc.
http://master.titol.fi/~yurtesen/CIMG0835.JPG

Inner bearing’s outer race’s place on backplate
http://master.titol.fi/~yurtesen/CIMG0838.JPG

Inner bearing’s inner race from outside and inside
http://master.titol.fi/~yurtesen/CIMG0843.JPG
http://master.titol.fi/~yurtesen/CIMG0845.JPG

Inner bearing’s outer race in million pieces…
http://master.titol.fi/~yurtesen/CIMG0846.JPG
http://master.titol.fi/~yurtesen/CIMG0848.JPG
http://master.titol.fi/~yurtesen/CIMG0849.JPG

Evren

[yurtesen]

By the way, I still didnt get where was I suppose to drill to get the bearings out. So, next to the bearing was the shaft (the inner race). Was I suppose to drill to the shaft? Wouldnt it destroy the shaft?

Anyhow, I am happy that those went off after all. I was cutting them for a while now but it was too late when I realized that higher rpm machine cuts like cutting butter.

[Martin]

Re: candy alise 105 changing bearings

It is no good, it needs replacing, as it will fail in less than 6 months as the water seal will leak through again….SORRY! :tdown:

New Drum Shaft required :tup:

😥

Martin

[yurtesen]

It is impossible to change it. 🙂
I will polish it before closing in.
Any recommendations on that? :p

[kwatt]

Not doable Evran, I’ve tried it before and every single on, without fail, failed. If it’s so much as a fraction of a mm out then it will leak or rip the seal’s inner lip up in no time and you’re back to where you started.

Seriously, the only option is a new drum.

K.

[yurtesen]

I cant find a new drum. It is impossible.

The drum seal is quite smooth. At least when I touch it by finger. I will just polish it and close, but any advices of with what it can be done? the smoothest thing I could find was fine grained polishing sponge. If the machine fails again then I send the machine to recycling.

Evren

[yurtesen]

kwatt, I think there is a solution without changing the drum, but not something I can find here. I will look from eBay though.

Take a look at this.
http://www.skf.com/portal/skf/home/prod … link=4_5_3

I think, it looks promising 🙂

[Martin]

yurtesen wrote:I cant find a new drum. It is impossible.

Evren,

Could you give me the 8 digit ‘Product Code’ of your machine please? It will be on the back panel near the lid I think? Better still give me ALL the numbers shown there 💡

Martin

[yurtesen]

Martin wrote:

yurtesen wrote:
I cant find a new drum. It is impossible.

Could you give me the 8 digit ‘Product Code’ of your machine please? It will be on the back panel near the lid I think? Better still give me ALL the numbers shown there 💡

It is located in my other forum thread. But I really wont get a new drum 🙂 I was thinking of using sealed bearings. Which have the water seal integrated to bearing. Thus there is no need for the drum seal.

For example from SKF, 6203-2RSH and 6204-2RSH supposedly can even stop pressurized water from going into the bearing. Plus the prices are quite affordable. I can find brand new 6204-2RSH from eBay 20euro 10 pieces. I dont see what would be the difference if the water stops at the drum seal or the bearing. By the look of the machine here. I think it wont make any difference at all.

Check this out:
http://www.skf.com/portal/skf/home/prod … ink=1_1_4c

There is even better model of this bearing but I couldnt find it anywhere.
http://www.skf.com/portal/skf/home/prod … ink=1_1_4d

Come on, lets just be practical. I think you should give those a try next time you repair a washing machine 🙂 But if you think these wont work, why?

Thanks
Evren

[Penguin45]

Re: candy alise 105 changing bearings

Yurtesen,
6204ZR and 6203ZR bearings with rubber membrane are water resistant. They are not waterproof.

Penguin45.

[Author]

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