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Re: Whirlpool American Fridge Freezer broken down – help!
Hi RichardCowey,
It’s a wild guess because I can’t see your board and I wasn’t there when they made it but; I would imagine the suppliers ran out of the 6.3 volt so they opted for the 10 volt.
I wonder if you can give me the date that the processor was programmed.
Somewhere on your rear module you will have a sticker; there will be a date which I believe is usually the week number and year.
I have seen early builds with the white capacitors and late builds with the newer style blue capacitors assembled in 2005, both have had a 6.3 volt cap.
If the board is year’s later then 2005, keep to the 10 volt in case there has been some modification that I have not seen, otherwise stick the 6.3 in.
For the flashing display etc, wire the two 1uf caps in parallel and use them to replace C1, C2, C14 & C15. Farnell 975-1440
Hope this helps
BroddersRe: Whirlpool American Fridge Freezer broken down – help!
Hi Shaun, I’m shocked that you actually had the cap for C2 in the kit and didn’t use it.
Kwatt has very kindly put the kit together and included C2 for good reason.
I can only reiterate what has been said before; once all the usual perpetrators have been changed, we can all move forward with the knowledge that one issue has been addressed before we try and tackle the others.
I’m more then happy to help when and where I can, and give pointers along with so many other helpful & friendly people on this remarkable forum.
Thank you and kind regards
BroddersRe: Whirlpool American Fridge Freezer broken down – help!
Hi Ozzy1, no worries as you say on the other side of the world.
After the heat I took criticising some cheap capacitors a while back, I bought myself a flack jacket.
Good to hear from you and I do realise you helped many people back in 2005/2006.
Say Hi to my twin in Brisbane 🙂Re: Whirlpool American Fridge Freezer broken down – help!
Good afternoon all,
Whilst waiting for your ukwhitegoods component kit to be delivered, I thought I would shed some light on something that I think Ozzy1 mentioned.
At the front of your fridge there is a grill that allows air to be drawn in to circulate around the condenser coils, the front of the coils will very likely be clogged with fluff.You will probably all have seen steam from cooking, condense on a cold kitchen window and never more so then now and our approaching winter.
The condenser coils do the very same job; they condense the hot compressed gas from your compressor into a liquid, hence its name Condenser.
From there the compressed liquid is forced through a small tube into the cold bit inside your freezer. Once in this ‘cold bit’ the compressed liquid expands and evaporates into a gas and absorbs all the heat surrounding it.
So now you understand why the cold bit is called an evaporator.
Clean the coils with a soft brush and maybe a vacuum cleaner, this will also aid cooling of the compressor (the big black can) 😀Re: Whirlpool American Fridge Freezer broken down – help!
Oh dear…. more disappointment…
I replaced C2 with a new 10v, and absolutely no change. I bought the relay too, but cannot replace it – I can’t figure out how to remove the old one with 8 pins when I can only heat one bit of solder at a time! Maybe that’s the remaining problem – or maybe its the front board? The relay does click when I turn the fridge on, use the standby button etc so I assume thats it operating?
Could I try C2 with a 6.3v? I think I may as well try it before I figure out how to change the relay and order front board parts – which looks even more complicated for a soldering novice!
Re: Whirlpool American Fridge Freezer broken down – help!
Richard, you will need to buy a de-soldering pump.
This tool sucks up the solder from the pin that are holding the iron to.
Therefore you will have to go around all the pins and remove the solder from each one individually.My last attempt at repairing my fridge/freezer will start tomorrow.
I have bought the bits from Farnell’s as Brodders kindly informed me.One more capacitor, and the relays to replace, and them I’m done.
Or was I done when I bought the thing in the first place 😆
Re: Whirlpool American Fridge Freezer broken down – help!
Hi RichardCowey,
is it the orange relay clicking?
If you have replaced C1 and C2 you shouldn’t have any more problems not unless your LED display is flashing and turning the temp control on and off.
I would stick the 6.3 volt in.What cap did you stick in C1??
I’ll watch out for an answer.
Shaun is right, the relay would come out easily with a solder sucker but you can put solder on the joints and lift it bit by bit. This can damage the tracks if you keep too much heat on them.Re: Whirlpool American Fridge Freezer broken down – help!
Thanks again for help guys. I will buy a solder pump to sort the relay. It is the orange one – tho mine isn’t actually orange, the replacement I’ve bought is. It’s not clicking faultily, it’s just doing an occasional single click just before a fan starts or stops… presumably correct behaviour?
To recap, I’ve so far replaced… C1, C2, C5,6,7,8, and C26,27,28. They were all as advised here. C1 is a 1uF that looks just like the one that came out, and is so far the only one that fit perfectly. Rs item 190-8450. Altho I just did some searching and found 210-8825 which seems the same, is one wrong or right?
I’ve got a little confused about some of what I’ve read, did someone mention putting 2 1uF caps in the place of C1 on the rear board? Or was that only about the front board?
So… I just tried a 6.3v in C2 and there appears to be no change so far. I turn it on and the little freezer fan starts first, along with — on the freezer gauge. A few minutes later and the big fan pointing at the compressor starts. The freezer is 100{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} ice free so I can’t see any reason it should want to defrost unless there is a problem.
Is there a warm up time before the compressor kicks in, or should it turn on immediately if the thermostat says the temp does not match the gauge?
Re: Whirlpool American Fridge Freezer broken down – help!
Brodders – you seem to have done some fantastic work here 😀 Thanks!
Just a re-cap on the earlier part of the thread I have re-uploaded my pics of the Rear control boards and thought I would post again here – it’s a HUGE thread to trawl through LOL 😆 – but I’m here again since I’m sure my front control board is about to expire now… 😆 – another 3 1/2 years on 😉
Old rear board from S25BRSS31-A/G – expired in Mar ’06 – pic includes attempt at salvaging with a single replacement capacitor :rolls:
New rear board from Whirlpool phone helpline – cost £88 from Italy
Full conversion kit is now available from uk whitegoods – in case you haven’t read that bit! 😉Some people are unsure as to how to remove the front fascia on these machines – on mine when you lift the drip tray 2 screws can be seen… remove and pull the cover out and the bottom and lift upward to release where it clips downward into 2 slots in the top corners
I have now ordered the replacement capacitors as recommended by brodders – and assume that the board is on the back of this fascia panel. Can it be disconnected whilst the machine is running? – There are only 2 multi connectors running to the control board. – Or should the machine be turned off and disconnected fronm the mains?
Pics in case anyone is interested…
Fascia pulled away from freezer door
Back of fascia panel – showing control board cover I assume and 2 pieces of wiring loom connected to control board.
Thanks
Mick
Re: Whirlpool American Fridge Freezer broken down – help!
Hi RichardCowey, with so many replies, I’ve got lost along the way.
I’m sorry but I thought your compressor relay made a rapid click that you described as a ‘machine gun’. (Every now and again)
Having a good cap in C1 and a poor one in C2 will cause this for a fact!
The part number for the similar cap you found on RS is actually Polyester and not the Polypropylene.
The original caps when the boards were ‘first’ produced were in fact Polypropylene but sadly did not have a long working life. A number of people have had success with Polyester but not all.
I use Polypropylene and have never had cause to change.
It sounds like you have a later board since you said the C1 you fitted is the same as the one that came out.
I believe the later ‘Blue’ caps are still polypropylene but don’t quote me.
I’ll write about the function of the relay / rear fan in a second
Regards
bbRe: Whirlpool American Fridge Freezer broken down – help!
Wow Graphite
It’s good to hear from you.
I view you as Christopher Columbus and know the pioneering work you did all those years ago.
I’m dying to ask, which caps are failing after 3½ years??
I love the pics, if you send me a PM with your addy, I’ll send you the pic of where one can stick the blue caps on the front board.Re: Whirlpool American Fridge Freezer broken down – help!
Hi Mick,
The front module can be unplugged with power on but it does have 240 volts on it.
To recap (pardon the pun)
Remove C1, C2, C14 & C15
These caps are all in parallel.
Use two 1uf caps 305v ac, solder in parallel & extend with suitable wire and connect to where the old 4 caps came from.
For those who want confirmation – Parallel is like railway sleepers all joined by two tracks.
Series is something on the TV lol 😆Re: Whirlpool American Fridge Freezer broken down – help!
I’ll try to keep this clear.
If the rear module has been unplugged or lost its power, it does not know how much ice could be on the evaporator.
If the evaporator is below a certain temperature, the rear module will defrost first.
This gives the module a reference. (all things being well)
A full defrost takes 15 minutes but, the heater is only on for a minute or two.
Time is given for the water to drain away etc.
If the temp is above this level, the compressor will cut in within a few seconds, the fan next to the compressor will also cut in a second or two later.
This fan is a good reference!
If the fan is on, the compressor should be on!Finally, the LED displays show the ‘set temperature’ only.
If the freezer side shows 2 hyphens, the freezer is warmer then -12 degrees.
Warmer then -12 gives you an audible alarm. (for obvious reasons) and knocks of the display in case you’re hard of hearing.
Hope this helpsRe: Whirlpool American Fridge Freezer broken down – help!
broddersbaldrick wrote:
The front module can be unplugged with power on but it does have 240 volts on it.😯 😯 😯 nice advice to the public
Re: Whirlpool American Fridge Freezer broken down – help!
Oh sorry, I thought the 240 volts would give one a clue.
As with all domestic appliances, dismantling with the power on increases the chance of electric shock.
An electric shock may wake you faster then a cup of espresso or a box of Pro Plus but, it’s also known to have adverse affects on ones life and may end it rather abruptly.
Please always consult a competent person if you are the slightest bit unsure.
Disconnect any appliance from the mains (wall socket) before continuing any work.
Leave these Whirlpool Fridge freezers for 10 minutes before attempting any repair, the capacitors as widely discussed here, hold an electric charge that will give you bite if removed quickly.
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