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Re: Whirlpool American Fridge Freezer broken down – help!
Hi Richardcowey,
First of all I’m surprised you would go to the trouble of ordering some components and only changing half of the usual suspects.
If you read all of the recent threads on this excellent forum, you would have seen C2 next to the processor is also known to cause havoc all by itself.
I know it’s there because I wrote it.
C2 derives its power from C1 after being rectified.
The little 100n or .1uf in positions C26, C27 & C28 aren’t actually that important and do not supply power to anything!! (but still change)
I’m surprised you changed them and not the more important C6 & C8.
C1, C5, C6, C7 & C8 are all important and should all be changed together with C2.
From memory (don’t have my notes to hand) C8 does the defrost relay. (I could be wrong) If the defrost circuit is faulty; you will get long periods without the compressor running.
I know one circuit is responsible for the Ice maker and one for the standby but why leave them not knowing if they have any ill affects on the rest of the board.
Change them all so that you can at least eliminate the rear module and start on an even playing field.
C2 will give you your machine gun noise.
Hope this helpsRe: Whirlpool American Fridge Freezer broken down – help!
Well, after lurking in this thread for a while, I have eventually bit the bullet and joined in.
I have a S20B-RSS31 A/G, 8586 151 15010 which has had all the symptoms described in this thread.
This lasted for years, and as I never had the water plumbed in, I thought this was just down to that.
Then, I noticed food not lasting as long as expected, so bought a fridge thermometer.
About a month ago, I bought some capacitors from RS, and replaced the (4) 0.22 micro Farad Caps on the rear board.
This change never really had any effect, so just over a week ago, I bought the rear board repair kit from the site shop.
I borrowed in a temp freezer, and left the unit switched off for 24 hours.
I then changed all the caps from the new kit, apart from the only electrolytic one on the board.
Bingo, all good…………for about a week.
I now have a rising temp in the fridge, about 9 degrees, and also no longer here the compressor running, well, I do sometimes, but it is very faint, as compared to straight after the last repair.
Any ideas anyone. Any help would be very much appreciated.
Thanks in advance,
ShaunRe: Whirlpool American Fridge Freezer broken down – help!
Thanks broddersbaldrick, you are a star as always. I never noticed the talk of C2 for some reason despite reading the whole thread. I think my eyes went…. or it was the tricky reading on my iPhone. However I did say in my post that altho there was no space to do C8 or C6 initially, I did realise the next day that I could fit them on the other side and did them along with 26, 27 and 28.
Currently dismantling record players to search for a C2 replacement…. Maplin first thing tomorrow might be a better plan.
Re: Whirlpool American Fridge Freezer broken down – help!
Hi Shaun1878,
The first simple thing you can check is the motorised baffle top left of the fridge.
Stick you head in the fridge and see if you can see the vents open. It’s like a flat louver that opens and closes to allow cold air to enter the fridge.
If they’re open, the problem lies somewhere else and you may have an iced up evaporator that needs a defrost.
If they’re closed, it’s either sticking, faulty or the temperature control is faulty.
Have a look and go from there.
Hope this helps.Re: Whirlpool American Fridge Freezer broken down – help!
Hi Richardcowey,
If you’re buying a new one, make sure the voltage is 6.3 volts and not more.
Just for the record, a capacitors value is achieved when it has two thirds of its working voltage applied to it.
This cap has around 4.5 volts so replacing it with a 16 or 25 (volt working) cap would make things worse.
hthRe: Whirlpool American Fridge Freezer broken down – help!
Thanks for the reply Brodders.
I have checked the motorised baffle, and it is working correctly.
In the time since my first post, I now have a freezer over temp alarm.
The — sign on the front panel.
I thoroughly defrosted the evaporator just over a week ago, and although I havent taken the panel off yet, I fear it has frozen up again 😡If this is the case, what would be causing this problem, and how would I fix it ?
Thanks again,
ShaunRe: Whirlpool American Fridge Freezer broken down – help!
Thanks again for the C2 info. Are you saying the existing cap in C2 is wrong and to get one rated 6.3v cos mine says 10v on it. It’s 1000uF, 10v and 85deg, does that sound right?
RS part 571-117 is 6.3v and 628-3784 is 10v… any chance I’ve stumbled my way onto the right one with one of those?
Re: Whirlpool American Fridge Freezer broken down – help!
Brodders, hopefully you will be reading this sometime soon.
Just to let you know, I also have the flashing light problem on the front.
Although my main concern is having a fridge that will hold temp for at least a month, I would like the ice maker to work too 😆Since I replaced the (4) 0.22 micro Farads, (from the first time too) the clicking stopped from the one of the rear relays. As I have said, I have bought the kit from here, and replaced all, except for the small electrolytic one.
From what I have read, the reason the fridge started getting cold again, was because I defrosted the evaporator, and the compressor started working again.
I now think this has iced up over the last week or so.
What do you think, the de-frost cycle is not happening ?
Thanks in advance,
ShaunRe: Whirlpool American Fridge Freezer broken down – help!
Hi Brodders
Hope you dont mind, but I am puzzled by your comments about a capacitors working voltage.
I have never had any problems substituting capacitors with far greater working voltages in the past. Also a search of google shows no indication either that using a capacitor with a larger working voltage can be detrimental to the circuit operation. On the contrary, most references only state that the working voltage must be greater than the operating voltage by 50{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} or so. This depends on the application and the amount of AC ripple present.
Sorry, I dont mean to be argumentative, but I am concerned that people may assume that problems are due to the capacitor working voltage instead of something else.
RegardsRe: Whirlpool American Fridge Freezer broken down – help!
Hi Ozzz1,
if what you say is true, why do manufactures make a 6.3volt?
Why don’t the board manufactures just stick 25 volt cap in and be done with it.
After all, the caps with a higher working voltage are cheaper because they are more widely used.I had a discussion with Nick many pages ago, he stuck a cap with a higher working voltage in and still had problems.
Did Google also tell you about capacitive reactance? And how the voltage is not in phase with the current?
I bet it didn’t!
There is far more to a capacitor then Google can tell us and I don’t pretend to know it all.Just finished the school run, I’m reading the comments from RichardCowey whom I’m trying to help but spending my time here.
He has found a listing for a 10 volt cap.
So why have 10 volt, 16 volt, 25 volt …….16 volt is close to 10 volts isn’t it.
You’re right to be argumentative if you feel I have given inaccurate information.
Sadly Google does not answer all our questions and if people start raising the working voltage of their capacitors they may well have problems!
When people are replacing components, I am assuming they are using components of the same value.
RichardCowey may pop into Maplin, tell me he has replaced C2 with a new one and still have problems.
He may think it’s not necessary to tell me they only had 25volt units and I spend the next month trying to establish why his board is still clicking.
I asked RichardCowey to make sure he had a 6.3 volt so as not to run into problems later. He obviously has a rogue board with a 10 volt since the many I have repaired here had 6.3.
I would therefore ask RichardCowey to replace the cap with the same value as the unit that has been removed. (There may be other changes to his board that I can’t see)
I didn’t get my electronics qualification and experience from Google or the back of a cornflakes packet. Neither did I think my answers were going to be scrutinised.
I am simply saying; don’t substitute components for ones that are close at hand, use the right value.
Of course Ozzy1, if you feel the circuit designers have got it wrong according to Googles ‘rule of thumb’ feel free to modify the circuit in any way you like but don’t expect it to always work.
And when one has ‘blanket bombed’ all the usual components and it still doesn’t work, I’m happy to offer my free advice.Re: Whirlpool American Fridge Freezer broken down – help!
Hi Shaun1878,
For the record lol
Your little orange compressor relay is a ‘change over’ relay.
When it’s off, it supplies power to the defrost circuit.
When it’s on, the contact changes over and supply power to the compressor.
It’s very likely your compressor relay is not turning off.
It may well disconnect the compressor but may not turn off fully due to internal failure.
If you have a meter and want to test it, let me know and I will help.
If you want to change it, make sure you use the right type.
What’s the right type?
Apart from the physical size and pin orientation etc etc, the relay has a high coil resistance of 1.4 k ohms and deviating from this spec may have repercussions later.
This relay is available from RS or Farnell. Farnell no longer have the £15 minimum order value so for that reason I recommend them.
If you want to repair your front board too, you will need two 1uf capacitors.
I have the part numbers below for Farnell but if you wish to use RS let me know
I’ve also included the part number for C2 next to the chip.Farnell Compressor Relay = 117-5017
Farnell 1000uf cap 6.3 volt = 969-2738
Farnell 1uf Cap 305v ac = 975-1440 you need 2The reason I chose that particular electrolytic is because it has the 3.5 mm lead spacing.
If you wish to give the defrost relay and ice maker relay a new lease of life, get two 121-8837 relays too.
Hope this helps
BroddersRe: Whirlpool American Fridge Freezer broken down – help!
Hi RichardCowey,
Yes that 10 volt cap from RS is spot on for your requirements.
If you’re ordering from RS, I would recommend you order a compressor relay too. It’s less then £3 and will give your board a new lease of life.
RS part number RS Stock No. 198-6983
Manufacturer Tyco Electronics
Farnell offer free shipping now, the relays are shipped in a tough plastic case that stops the pins from getting bent.
Farnell also offer a range of 10volt caps with 3.5mm lead spacing.
Hope this helps
BroddersRe: Whirlpool American Fridge Freezer broken down – help!
Ahhhh.. the plot thickens. I wonder if my C2 is some kind of factory error and should have been 6.3v all along!? I have ordered both 10v and 6.3v replacements, along with the compressor relay.
Is it definitely best to replace the 10v with 10v, or is it safe to try changing to 6.3v? If so, which way round is best, i.e. try 10v and see if it works, if not try 6.3v, or the other way? So many factors!
I never quite knew what other people meant when they referred to flickering lights on the front panel, but I think I just found out…. while I wait for the next bits, I just replaced the board again, on the off chance it might decide to work. While there was no change with the compressor – the front lights did a little flicker (specifically the fridge temp gauge) and made a little chirrup sound. Ohhhhhhh no… not more to do!
RS were out of stock so I ordered the exact same bits (same manufacturer even) from Farnell at lower cost and with free postage. Fingers crossed for tomorrow morning!
Thanks again for your valuable expertise Brodders. I had an amusing experience in the local electrical store when asking for a 1000uF capacitor. “Whaaaaaaat!? 1000!? Surely not, whats it from, who told you that, that can’t be right, 1000!?”…. along with a knowing smirk when I told him I read on the internet…. “Oh no, you won’t get one of those” he said. Ha.
Re: Whirlpool American Fridge Freezer broken down – help!
Sorry Brodders – I did not mean to offend you.
I didnt know that Electrolytics needed a certain percentage of their rated voltage to operate correctly. Thanks for the lesson and maybe it will help others to understand the importance of using the right replacement parts.
RegardsRe: Whirlpool American Fridge Freezer broken down – help!
Once again Brodders, thanks for your invaluable information.
I have ordered 2 compressor relays, 4 defrost and ice making relays, and 5 of both types of capacitor.
I did get the 1000µF 6.3v capacitor with the kit from the site, but never fitted it, as I expected the electrolytic would still be good.
What do I know :rolls:I will borrow a replacement fridge again, and switch the unit off tonight, ready for the new components to arrive.
Would you mind if I called on you again if I get stuck doing the repair ?
And thank you again for all your help.
Shaun
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