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Re: Beko CDA543FW-2 fridge freezer air sensor replacement
In case anyone wants to try the PCB, this is where I got mine for under £8 including postage. http://www.buyspares.co.uk/beko/ca7015f … ref=648148
But now I’m even more confused. I just searched on ukwhitegoods, and they have the “control module” for this f/f here http://shop.ukwhitegoods.co.uk/43606201 … rol-module for £19.48, and as well as being much more expensive, it looks completely different. It doesn’t fit in the top of the fridge, and doesn’t appear to have a potentiometer. It looks bigger. Where…? What the…!?
Won’t buy a Beko again (unless it’s cheap lol).
Re: Beko CDA543FW-2 fridge freezer air sensor replacement
Just an update on this, as I’ve had a few private messages asking if I’ve fixed it…the bad news is no, I’ve given up. Changing the PCB/potentiometer module in the light housing didn’t work. The good news is that plugging the fridge into a mains timer solved the problem well enough to get by for the last six months, and I see no reason not to continue with it like that. It’s one of those mechanical rotary timers with switches you push in or out for each 1/4 hour of the clock. Some cheaper ones just have half-hour sections, which might work, but might be a bit coarse for this. And it wouldn’t work with one of the other type that just allow a few on and off times (digital ones usually do that).
I was concerned that doing this might interfere with the defrost cycle, but it’s still frost free (I have another freezer that isn’t auto-defrost, which I have defrosted in that time, and it needs doing again now). I was also a bit concerned because freezer instructions usually say to leave the unit off for a long period if you have to switch it off for maintenance purposes or something, but perhaps it’s not switched off long enough to need it. Anyway, the only observable difference from how it used to function is that the light won’t come on in the fridge when it’s in its off cycle, obviously.
If you’re thinking of doing this, I’d recommend keeping a suitable thermometer in the fridge, and adjusting the switches on the timer accordingly, which requires a bit of basic maths and common sense. My 50/50 setting (switches like this: 101010…) was too cold, so I tried 1/4 hour on, 1/2 hour off (100100100100…), but that was too warm so it’s now alternating between the two (1010010100…). It doesn’t have to match perfectly. I find it’s a bit warm, I can just flip a few of the 0s to 1s fairly evenly round the clock, or vice versa. Half an hour on or off is no problem with the insulation it’s got. More than that might be a problem.
Fridge and freezer temperatures are fairly important to avoid food poisoning, so make sure you know what you’re doing or get help. It may also need adjusting at different times of year in temperate zones if you don’t keep the room temperature constant. I’ll be checking mine again soon here in the UK. I even wondered about making it work harder during the day and less at night, but it’s probably not necessary.
I’m pretty sure if you get the fridge the right temperature, the freezer should be ok. This model only has a single adjustment, although it normally monitors the freezer temperature. If in doubt, get a good low-range thermometer and check the freezer too.
Several people with this never-switching-off issue on this model have replaced the “thermostat” in the top of the fridge to no avail, so if you’ve just had it happen, you could possibly save yourself a tenner for it and spend that on a mains timer instead. (Sorry I didn’t get your post in time Santi). However, Bob (Samuri) says he’s fixed several of these by replacing that part, so I’m no clearer than I started. I have even wondered whether we should have left the freezer for 48 hours or reset something (or done a little raindance maybe) after changing it, or whether half of them come off the production line not working!
The other option might be to replace the sensor (also cheap, but not a simple plug-and-play affair, you have to wire it together and then heat-shrink the insulation on), but I’m still not sure which of the little gizmos it is (there are two that look similar), and I can’t be bothered taking it all apart again, letting it warm up to work on it while storing the contents in another freezer and doing the wiring job. Santi, I don’t understand – when you say you’ve “checked” the thermistor – how did you do that? Isn’t it hard-wired into the machine, and even if it’s plugged in, how do you check it’s working?
Re: Samsung RS21 – another thread re frosting
Hi Phil
No new seal will cure the problem.The problem is the design of the cover made out of polistyrine which soaks up water and then freezes then expands. It is a Samsung design fault but the deny it.
Bryan
Re: New member benefit of credit checks
Ok as I take it that it’s agreed.. Shall I get it paid off in one go so that it’s paid in full for the 30 months
Re: Acutest In-Conference Offer for WTA 2014
http://prntscr.com/2uww69 From Amazon site.
Not quite. Only the Shinntto one is cheaper and that doesn’t have a calibration certificate.
Bryan
Re: Samsung RS21DCNS Fridage/Freezer
Hi
possible pcb but without checking the unit cannot confirm
Bryan
Re: Get Free Booze!
lee8 wrote:Coool almost makes me feel like coming.
Sent from my GT-N7000 using Tapatalk
Don’t think we’ll ever see you 😆Bryan
Re: Samsung RSH5UBBP defrost problem
Anybody have any experience with these fridge freezers, samsung are refusing to help as outside of warrenty and the company I brought the fridge through are saying they will help under the sale of goods act, but if have to prove that the failure is due to design / manufacture flaw, how do I do that
?
They are using the same design as the RS20/RS21/RSH1 ect. same type of rear fan panels that fail and are inherently defective. Same type same problems they will never learn.
Bryan
