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tubafan wrote:I’m puzzled why the electrician doesn’t think it should be Part P notified as surely anything with a new RCBO is a new circuit and new circuits are notifiable.All sounds very suspect to me.
He said the work will be certified, and it could be Part P notified for a £10 Council registration fee.
He seems to be including a new RCBO in his quote, but the wiring only seems to be replacing the old wiring from the junction on top of the cabinets, so is it actually a new circuit?
It was said above that the oven and hob needed to be on the socket ring circuit, not a spur. Does a radial circuit from the junction meet these requirements?
electrofix wrote:thats would go against electrical regs
for him to even suggest that makes me doubt his electrical qualifications
Dave
Do you mean connecting the oven, hob and extractor together on a 32A radial circuit goes against electrical regs?
and what would the hob be hard wired to?
Dave/QUOTEi don’t know, but the extra cost would only be £18, which seems to suggest that not much extra work is involved. The electrician said it can be done “if the hob can be upgraded to a 32A”, so could he just run a second cable from the junction box on top of the cabinets and put a second 32A Rcbo in the fuse box?
Does the rest of the work suggested (without hardwiring) sound reasonable, especially point 1 in my last post?
Following all your useful advice, we asked another electrician to look at the wiring. It appears that the wire feeding the dual socket comes from a junction on top of the wall cabinets and is only 1mm thick. The wire is hidden in the wall behind the cabinets and comes down to the dual socket at the back of the floor cabinet next to the oven. He said he could bring a new wire from the junction on top of the cabinet down the wall through trunking, through the corner of the worktop to the current socket position. His quote was for “installation/resupply of a new cooker/hob point and extractor fan from the existing cable”. It included:
6mm cable
40 x 25 Trunking
50A Junction box
1 x Double socket and surface pattress
1 x Switch fuse spur and surface pattress
1 x 32A RcboThis is a different approach to the first electrician and would cost significantly less, so we would appreciate your opinions on whether this sounds appropriate and safe, and also any comments on the following:
1 – When we asked if the oven, hob and extractor would be on their own ring circuit or on a spur, he said they would be connected together on a 32A radial circuit.
2 – He said the work would be certified but doesn’t need to be Part P notified.
3 – He also said that the hob could be hardwired for minimal cost “if the hob can be upgraded to a 32A”.Thank you very much for all your help.
Thanks very much for your replies and help.
Each plate setting is 9, and one plate can use booster setting (which spec seems to say is 3.1kW), so it looks like only one plate on full and one on low can be used at the same time.
As Bosch state that “hobs are easily installed into an existing plug socket…….as these products are plugged into mains electric, the nominal power is limited to 3.7k”, it would seem that the limited power means it’s fine to plug the appliance into a socket on the downstairs socket ring circuit, but wouldn’t approximately 16A current fllow through the plug then and blow the 13A fuse, or does nominal power have a different meaning?
electrofix wrote:
some induction hobs can be plugged into a 13A socket as the software inside limits the total power to 3Kw. cant see any reference to this in the model you have listed
if both units are like this then you would need to check if the socket that you are plugging into is on the ring main and not a spur off the ring main
Dave
After searching the internet for more information regarding the hob power, I found this on John Lewis’s site:
“Fitted with a conventional plug, simply connect this hob to any standard socket, and it’s ready to use – no wiring required. If you choose to plug it in at the wall, it’ll limit heat levels across your hob to a total of 12, so if you need a bit more oomph, we’d recommend hard-wiring it in”.Unfortunately, it doesn’t say how many kilowatts correspond to heat levels of 12, but presumably it would be less than 3kW. In that case, could both oven and hob be plugged into a dual socket, or would each need to be plugged into a socket on a separate ring main?
kaibart wrote:The hob that you have purchased and said can draw over 3kw will need to be hard wired you should have check the induction hib draws under 3kw then you would have been able to just plug them in and some if the bosch neff Siemens appliance state they need to have a certain size and type breaker
Maybe I misread the spec regarding the power drawn. I have spoken to Bosch themselves and they say the hob just needs to be plugged in to a normal socket, and it comes with a manufacturer fitted 13 amp fused plug to do this. They state that neither the hob nor the oven need to be hard wired.
Thanks for your replies.
There was no plinth in front but managed to empty machine as suggested.
However, still didn’t work as drum would not rotate, so ended up having to replace machine.
Thank you for your replies.
What is your opinion on the Hotpoint NSWF943CW washing machine? It seems to have all the functions of the AEG and Samsung but at a much lower price.
Thank you for your opinion Don 🙂
The issue was not so much space as that two separate machines seem to cost considerably more than one combined machine. Dryers alone appear to be quite expensive, so to get two separate machines for a similar price, the washing machine would have to be something like a Hotpoint NSWF943CW. Would the quality of such a machine be any good?
I was attracted by Samsung and AEG because they have longer labour and parts warranty than most other makes. How important do you think this is?
