[andytw]

Re: Diplomat ADP8630 integrated pump access

In my case the machine came out but only after the plinth came off. Pump was then accessable through a plate on the front.
1 cocktail stick removed and back in service 😀

[andytw]

Re: Whirlpool AKZ151/1X button not working sometimes

Brilliant…many thanks.

andytw

[andytw]

Re: Whirlpool AKZ151/1X button not working sometimes

Hi,

Could just do with a sanity check please. Cooker is a :-

Whirlpool AKZ151/IX 858515115040

I obtained new parts from a popular auction site. Both were listed as old stock but new and unused. I am happy with what I have purchased.

I replaced the Switch PCB, the one at the front with the knobs on it. I have fitted part 481221458469
No problem with this as far as I am concerned.

For the control board, I bought and fitted a 481931039791. This part is listed on this site and on espares as being the correct board for this cooker. I am therefore happy with that.
Here is my concern. The new control board came with an instruction leaflet on how to identify the cooker’s service code and how to cut the service code resistors. The service code on this cooker is “3” so, as per the instructions, I removed resistors 2 and 3.
All good so far. The only niggle I have is that the control board I removed, which is a 461961508231, did NOT have any resistors cut.

So my question to this forum.. is it normal that a replacement board of different part number may have different resistors cut than the one it is replacing.

I am more than happy with the part numbers I have bought and fitted. As per previous post I think there are various part numbers out there depending on vintage.

Thanks,

andytw

[andytw]

Re: Whirlpool AKZ151/1X button not working sometimes

Hi,

Further to my last post I have found the following part numbers for the control PCB. Are they just likely to be different versions of the same thing ? My cooker is a 858515115040.

Control PCB
481921478693 UK Whitegoods, Apart4U
481245319644 Espares
481245248779 Espares
481221458469 Espares

Thanks,

andytw

[andytw]

Re: Whirlpool AKZ151/1X button not working sometimes

Hi,

An update. I replaced the button with a new one. I checked the old button on low ohms with bleep and it is fine. I spoke to the tenant and he reports that the cooker is still playing up.
With regard to my next move and from what I can find on the web I think there is the control module PCB (with the 2 control knobs on it)that the push button connects to, and also a main PCB. Looking at the prices of the PCBs I am thinking it best to cut and run and just replace the oven.

Any thoughts appreciated.

andytw

[andytw]

Re: Candy CDW254 Leaking

Hi,

Finally got around to getting this unit out. I can see the pressure sensor screwed to the side in the base but notice there is also a pressure device which is an integral part of the inlet valve. What is this last device for ? Is it perhaps a sfatey cut out if the main pressure detector fails ??

Thanks,

andytw

[andytw]

Re: Candy CDW254 Leaking

Ok thanks.
I strongly suspect the level is the issue as the leak, when it happens, is a continuous run like a tap that has just been cracked open, and not like there are splashes hitting the door and getting out every now and then.

What controls the fill level ?

Thanks,

andytw

[andytw]

Re: Candy CDW254 Leaking

Hi,
I am helping the original poster to sort out this machine.
First a question about the seals. The bottom seal has what could be described as an ear at each end. Does the main door seal just butt down onto these ears. The ears could conceivably lift up and lay against the door seal but I don’t think this would be correct.
Next, when the problem occurs there is a good flow of water from the left hand front corner. If the program is now stopped and the door is opened, then the tray in the bottom of the DW is virtually full of water, to the point that the lower rotor is sitting into the water. I do not think this is correct and we may be looking at a flooding issue rather than a seal problem.

Feedback appreciated.

andytw

[andytw]

Re: Cannon Camberley LPG Cooker poor grill performance

Well, I thought I would at least have a non disruptive look. The jet is visible in the side of the grill compartment. A gentle clean with a small wire and the grill is back in business.

Thanks for the tip

andytw

[andytw]

Re: Indesit IDL40 UK stops

Thanks Iadom,

It was not pumping. I removed the pump and it was jammed with a bit of plastic which looks like it came from a dishwasher freshener.
It has now done a full test cycle and I am now doing another with a cleaning tab in there.

Thanks again

andytw

😀 😀 😀 😀 😀 😀 😀 😀

[andytw]

Re: Indesit IDL40 UK stops

Hi,

Thanks. Yes the two on the left, I think they are LEDs.
I will have a look at the pump. I can put some mains on it and see if it runs.

If it has to go to the tip then so be it 🙁 I’ll join the queue.

andytw

[andytw]

Re: Hotpoint “First Edition” Fridge Freezer Proble

I will run with a stat for now. I have removed it.
I am presuming it is 6 to 4 when warm to power compressor, and then 6 to 3 when cold to power fridge heater.
I am seeing some ohms across the contacts which vary when the stat is tapped so it doesn’t look too special.

Is there a stat in your shop ?

I think the Hotpoint part number is HPT2600413

The stat I have removed is Ranco K59-P3126

Would Ranco ever have been original fit ? Does this imply it has been swapped previously.

(Fridge heater measures 10k which would generate around 5 watts. I guess this sounds about right.)

andytw

[andytw]

Re: Hotpoint “First Edition” Fridge Freezer Proble

Have left it running for 3 days with food in the freezer and stat set to max.
Fridge goes to +3, freezer hangs around -10. Food was transferred from another freezer and after 3 days was no longer rock solid.

Is there anywhere I can get access to the wiring for the stat. I am still suspicious of this, please see previous post. Stat has more wires than appear at the compressor junction block which I find strange.

andytw

[andytw]

Re: Hotpoint “First Edition” Fridge Freezer Proble

The thermometer is a Maplin’s one with probe on the end of a cable.
I tried it in another freezer and it is -19 to -20 so thermometer looks good.

andytw

[andytw]

Re: Hotpoint “First Edition” Fridge Freezer Proble

So the fridge stat regulates the fridge temperature and the freezer is assumed to be correct by the amount of coolant that goes it’s way ?
Is that correct ?

The freezer cooling surfaces are across the top, below the top compartment, down the back and across the bottom, but it really is only the top surface that gets very cold. It is quite quick to develop some frost on it but the other surfaces don’t appear to. Would it be possible to get a trap or lock in there ?

The fridge does seem to stay off for quite long periods.

Ref the login, yes fine thanks. I hadn’t done the email response.

andytw

[Author]

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