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Dave_Neff
ParticipantRe: Dismantling Neff U1661 oven door
I pulled the oven and removed the “receivers” (needs the oven bottom removing) and found that one of them was bent – a big hammer and a small amount of skill unbent it. I put both “receivers” back with a 1mm washer between the top and the oven front (to slightly increase the angle) and the door now shuts better than it ever has.
Door problems seem to be quite common so maybe this will help someone.Dave_Neff
ParticipantRe: Dismantling Neff U1661 oven door
Sorted! The secret is to pull the inner glass panel off to reveal the screws holding the handle. Simples!
The odd thing is that the hinges seem perfectly OK but they don’t fully close the door – a small gap remains at the top. The door can be shut easily with a gentle push but the gap re-appears when the push stops.
Dave_Neff
ParticipantRe: Inaccurate temperature – NEFF U1661
Having thought about it a bit, to use an IR thermometer with any accuracy I’d need to make some targets with a bit of thermal mass (metal) and a 95{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} surface emissivity (exhaust paint) so I can open the door and get a reasonable estimate of the temp. I didn’t know about digital meat thermometers (with a remote probe) until yesterday – probably an easier and cheaper approach if I can find one with good reviews and that has a high-enough top temp – manufacturing quality is an issue from the reviews I’ve seen so far.
Dave_Neff
ParticipantRe: Inaccurate temperature – NEFF U1661
Thanks for your interest. The E number is U1661 N1 GB 09.
It’s unlikely that both thermocouples would have failed at the same time (unless the first one became dodgy a while ago and I didn’t notice) so I probably need to check connections. I’m an electronics engineer so don’t have a problem tackling problems like this but lack of info is the problem.
I’ll probably have to investigate whether it’s possible to hire a suitable calibrated thermometer 🙁Dave_Neff
ParticipantRe: Inaccurate temperature – NEFF U1661
I left each oven on for at least 25-30 minutes with the thermometer in it, the “heating” must have cycled a few times in that time and I’d hope that the thermometer would get up to temp too. I understand the problem with cheap (presumably bi-metal) thermometers but I suspected a problem beforehand from an under-cooked turkey and roast pots. I’ll check it in another oven, which has been in use for 15+ years and is renowned for being “hot”.
Is there any cal adjustment?Dave_Neff
ParticipantRe: Smelly ice – whirlpool S20E
Nobody has offered any suggestions but I’ve solved it now so maybe the answer will be useful to someone. Scrubbing the “bin” with bicarb and then with vinegar made no difference but an soaking it overnight in a strong solution of Milton sterilising fluid has solved the problem completely.
Dave_Neff
ParticipantRe: Whirlpool S20E RSS2V A/G fan running all the time
Thanks for the reply. It isn’t *all* the time, but because of the noise it’s enough to be irritating. Has anyone succeeded in getting them to make less noise?
Dave_Neff
ParticipantRe: Spares for AEG hood
What I did was to saw-off the remaining plastic mounting lug and make an aluminium wide “top hat” bracket which is screwed to the original mounting tags and presses the housing towards the front. It took about 30 mins and works superbly, the panel feels much more solidly mounted than it ever has.
HTH somebody.Dave
Dave_Neff
ParticipantRe: Spares for AEG hood
Thanks, I was worried that might be the case.
Unless someone has a duff switch assembly (that I can salvage the housing from) I’ll need to get busy with the Araldite and some bits of aluminium 🙁
Dave
Dave_Neff
ParticipantRe: Zanussi FJ1295 “stopping”
No, it’s fine thanks. I removed the knob and front panel, turned the indicator dial through 180 and put it all back together – no replacements needed. I must have fiddled with it when I originally replaced the mains switch and just got it wrong when I put the panel on again.
Now to get the jetwash working.
Dave
December 20, 2007 at 10:17 pm in reply to: How do I tell whether the jetsystem is working on an FJ1295? #237669Dave_Neff
ParticipantRe: How do I tell whether the jetsystem is working on an FJ1
Thanks!
‘Any suggestions about which part of the cycle it’s supposed to be spraying in?
Presumably I lie the machine on its back to get to the pump – is it just a case of replacing it or can it be stripped?Dave
Dave_Neff
ParticipantRe: Zanussi FJ1295 “stopping”
Well, it looks like I’ve been a prat 😳
It’s heating fine, and now that I’ve turned the indicator dial through 180 degrees it seems to be working properly.So, it IS possible to get the dial 180 degrees out!
Thanks for trying to help.
DaveDave_Neff
ParticipantRe: Zanussi FJ1295 “stopping”
This may be really embarrassing!
I was just starting to investigate whether the water was heating when I noticed that it seemed to be filling/pumping at a strange point in the cycle. A light came on dimly in the back of my head – is it possible to get the indicator dial 180 degrees out when refitting the front panel? If so this might explain the apparent strange behaviour – maybe I half turned it while replacing the on/off switch.Dave
Dave_Neff
ParticipantRe: NEFF S5555X not cleaning upper tray (arms OK)
Many Thanks Greg, email sent.
This has made me really curious about how dishwashers work. Are there any diagrams online?
Dave
Dave_Neff
ParticipantRe: NEFF S5555X not cleaning upper tray (arms OK)
Thanks to all for the suggestions so far.
I just overrode the door switch so I could see what was going on …
… loads of water is getting to the top arm and spraying out of the holes but it’s not spinning – yet it spins freely by hand and the jets aren’t blocked.
With nothing to lose I decided to drill a couple of small holes in the sides of the arm ends to give it a “turbo boost” – hey presto, it now rotates 😀I suppose the pivot parts of the arm are worn and too much water is escaping – so I need to replace them.
Are they available separately? where from?A couple of points that may help others:
– the top and bottom baskets seem to be fed alternately with about a 5 second interval
– to make it even vaguely feasible to look inside with the pump running I removed the bottom arm and put an upturned bowl over the outlet.
– the top basket is fed from the rear; if you don’t prevent the basket from moving forward the water pressure will push it and you then get a jet of water straight at you 😳
– use a loop of wire to hook the door switch back to the off position when you’ve finished.Now I’m off to mop the kitchen, find some dry clothes and look for a new arm pivot.
Dave
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