Forum Replies Created
-
Posts
-
You could certainly reduce heater power by whatever means. I’d guess tho that if it’s a modern machine with electronic temperature control that you’d end up with a fault code if the rate of temperature rise is much slower than the module is expecting.
Indeed if it’s an older machine with a set of ‘stats you might even be able to add a small standalone temp. controller to call the h/w inlet solenoid based on drum temp rather than by program. That might have an effect on wash quality tho…
Langford Engineering Co, isn’t it?
Does anyone have any dealings with their commercial/ scientific stuff? Their sparkproofs are just cheapo domestics with the thermostat relocated outside the chamber.
much like their competitor LEEC, who rework Hotpoint (usually, but it varies) fridges with controllers and heaters to produce “cooled incubators”So how are these “wireless” speakers powered? If you need to run a power lead to them you might as well just run a speaker wire…
Are the lights mains or LV, and if LV is the transformer on the pcb or separate? Can you trace the circuit?
I think the tool you’re talking about might be a “seal puller”, simon.
Try Draper 37439.Dunno, some of the mid-range Zanussi and AEG stuff has a thermal lock with a solenoid override.
Machine faults or power goes off, you have to wait for the cooldown; but end or reset a cycle and the solenoid overrrides the heater and unlocks immediately.
Makes a nice satisfying click too…The average fridge ‘stat will cycle between your setpoint (5c maybe) and a cutoff of perhaps -10c. In a fridge there’s no problem as you’re not putting anything in contact with the coldplate, plus there’s a fair degree of circulation within the chamber.
In a chest freezer however there’s more of a chance of your product touching the cold zone, plus what circulation there is will give you a nice (bleedin cold) region at the bottom.
You’d likely be better getting some kind of cheapo temp. controller that you can program more reasonable hysteresis values into- or go for helo’s timeswitch option.
Some might even say a small circulating fan from a pc might help…There *is* however one stat that might be the job- BC2, as used in wine coolers. According to my info it’s “off” temp varies from +3 to -18, on at 8.5c…
Spending a lot of my time working on equipment for which parts are no longer available, I’ll offer this view:
Whilst the part is likely acceptable for this application, the execution of the mod is more questionable. For all you’re aware, the supply to the original fan may have been suitable for your replacement; even if not, utilising the original cabling would have been a more sound proposition than leading wires under door seals etc…
Iffy board perhaps then. I’d still spend a bit of time on ther peripherals first tho. You’ve checked for stored codes?
Ours follows the sequence in the book: drain to zero-calibrate the sensor before filling.How bespoke do you want, and what quantity? I have a nice form, but have never progressed beyond laser prints of it with carbon paper.
A trendy bespoke NCR block would be nice but I couldn’t justify the min. quantity. Sods law says, as soon as you buy in a batch, your phone number or email address will change…
