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Well on this occasion certainly, my optical tacho tells me that speed control is actually remarkably close, considering that the tacho signal is coming off the motor and there’s an elastic belt in the way.
A quick bump for this thread with how-to-get info, and a reccommendation.
If anyone is in this trade and doesn’t have a copy of TDS, get one now! It’s a superb resource. Wearing my other hat, I work with lab. equipment; guys, I see equipment at £5k, £10k and more and the quality of the service technical and faultfinding info for these £300 machines is WAY above that available (even to agreed distributors and agents).
I’m happy to admit that I’ve learned a HELLUVA lot about the most recent technology by reading some of the technical info on this disc. Hats off to ‘Lux!
Now I haven’t seen one, so don’t shoot me; but is there any way you could slide the collar right into the hose, insert the hose into the drum, then force the collar back down the hose into it’s rightful position?
If there’s only one wire to the microswitch and the other sode goes to ground, obviously the switch is on the (isolated) LV/ SELV control circuit. Sounds like a breakdown on the pcb then?
Isn’t in the back of the owners manual, or inside the casing perchance? Samsung always put the schematic in the book, but it’s years since I’ve seen a Sharp manual…
I’d concur with martin. If an LCD is good (wrt dead pixels) when purchased it’ll likely stay that way. Only other issue is the backlight and it’s inverter; although the CCL tubes are getting better and better, and are damn-near user-replaceable anyway…
Plasma OTOH is very hot running, plus the screen suffers from the same burn problems as a CRT.
IMHO, this is a bad time to spend money on a swanky TV. Too many changes are under way at the moment to justify shelling out large amounts of dough. If SWMBO *must* have a flatscreen, just buy a supermarket special as long as the picture is acceptable to you…
Doesn’t anyone else use the same controller? I’m going to guess it’d be easier to seperate the programming side of things from the inverter and input your own PWM based on whatever sensors you require. R/C servos have a PWM drive, maybe the format is similar? Best get the ‘scope out.
I’d say tho that you’re unlikely to get good step control out of a 3-ph machine, especially one that was designed for continuous/ hight speed operation.
David
RS 228-2541 200/160c or
228-2535 220/180c
auto-reset, 10A capacity
Both are +-11c so either would do at one’s own discretion. Bends the spades down flat and you gotta be pretty close to the mark…Oh, if manual reset is imperative, the manufacturer is Radiatron- might be worth a call or email?
David
