[emax]

andyjawa wrote:Well done. Thought I might have been wrong with the door seal bit suggestion and only mentioned the Gorenje part as that was the only one I could find under that part number of some company that they say it is in stock so presumed (most unlike me) that it was a Slovenian made jobby when it isn`t. Thx for putting me right..Hope e-max can fix his machine, not an inexpensive make that you usually ditch!

I had to dispose of the machine sadly but did save the control panel as I’d seen in previous posts that they can fail too. I’ll stick it in the attic and if anyone needs one of these in future, reach out to me. I replaced it with an Asko W6098

[emax]

Thanks Don, I got a good deal on a brand new Asko with a 5 year warranty so will wait and see what that’s like when it arrives. I did consider going with a Miele but they are not currently doing any warranty promotions so i’d be stuck on a 2 year warranty and then of course locked into them for any repairs after that.

[emax]

Thanks for your help iadom. I’ve got my machine up and running again now and it’s working great.

[emax]

Thanks, will do!

[emax]

Thanks again iadom. I have managed to get it out with some brute force. The bolt would only go in about half way. There has been some slight distoring of the hole where it goes in but hopefully that’ll still be okay?

https://photos.app.goo.gl/qCJZTSp8tvS8Laeq9

Also, is it normal to see some gunk inside that hole? Quite a bit came out on the element itself and there were even little shards of gravel in there – no idea if there is an easy way to clear all of that out prior to installing a new element.

Thanks again.

[emax]

iadom wrote:If you push the door across to the left you will see a small slot on the right near the door handle. Slide a thin knife or teaspoon handle into this to release the door.

I have just looked in the shop here and cannot see the heating element for the ASKO produced ISE machines listed. I will try and find the correct part number and post it back to you. If you isolate the heater connections and then try the machine on a rinse and spin cycle you will know if any more serious damage has been done before you go to the expense of buying a heater.

Thanks for your help! I have run a rinse and spin cycle and that all works fine which is great.

I’m having quite a bit of difficulty removing the old heater element. I unscrewed the nut but the bolt wouldn’t push in – even with some encouragement from a screwdriver + hammer! Any tips to remove?

Thanks also for locating the heating element – provided I can get the old one out, I’ll order that today.

Much appreciated, Euan.

[emax]

My bad, the connectors weren’t for the motor but for the heating element. According to the diagram, that should have been 25 Ohms.

[emax]

Update:

The 13A fuse in the plug has blown. I took the back off and measured the resistance across the two contacts on the motor and I’m getting infinite resistance across the terminals. What’s more, one of the motor connectors looks burnt (see photo here: https://photos.app.goo.gl/UXgXq9Jt56eVghAG9 )

[emax]

Re: ISE 10 (1607W) repair – Fife, Scotland.

Martin wrote:

emax wrote:
Is it ok to gently file any sharp edges away or is that a bad idea?

It shouldn’t be a problem to do that.

emax wrote:Also, anyone know of a good repairer in my area?

Take a look here…

http://www.ukwhitegoods.co.uk/search/fi … e-engineer

Thanks for your help Martin, much appreciated.

[emax]

Re: ISE 10 (1607W) repair – Fife, Scotland.

Martin wrote:That’s belt buckle or jeans stud type damage by the looks.

Is it ok to gently file any sharp edges away or is that a bad idea?

Also, anyone know of a good repairer in my area?

Thanks,

Euan.

[Author]

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