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Re: WMA bearing change
The trick is to have acomplete drum assy built up ready pins come out easy if you spray wd40 on them .Also cable tie the harness before u cut original ties if you are pulling your back out the tab on the pins has not been pushed far enough in .Can do in 1hr10min love the job bring them on .You need 8mm bullet drill to remove bolts from shaft . If bearings break up in the back half outer race can be cut out using a dremell disc cutter .Dont be to hasty to condem wma .If you manage to repair back half yousave £32 less £10 for bearings charge £100+vat nice job can usually re-use old shaft 50{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} of time 8)
Re: hpt WMA40 door lock
always worth tilting machine back and check wiring harness as it comes up the front panel next to front weight ihave had loads with broken wiring due to rubbing against the corncrete Cliff .N 8)
Re: hotpoint wma44
I would go for p/switch could be over filling causing pump to operate to preventing flooding also check harness near front balance weight possible chaffing common fault if no luck change board
Phidom wrote:This machine had a faulty ON/OFF switch so I fitted a replacement second hand timer. When I came to fit the white edge connector block to the top edge of the PCB section it would not fit. The old timer had a slot in the edge of the PCB and a corresponding bridge in the block. The replacement unit did not have this slot so I had to cut out the bridge bit. Both boards were marked “904/2199/06 514025” and the machine seemed to work OK with the replacemen unit . My guess is that early production of this timer didn’t have the slots but if all new spares timers had slots they would replace either type. Has anyone else had this problem?
early models had diffrent edge block connectors same timer later model have slot will work fine
Penguin45 wrote:It’s a Whirlpool – have a look in Error Codes – top of this forum (p2).
Chris.
thanks chris now thats a speedy response top man
