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Several different motors used over the years, even a relay start model but most of the later ones did have a capacitor run motor. Can’t say I have ever had to change a capacitor but there is always a first time.;)
TBH that ESpares price for the motor is well over the top, even so you would still be looking at around £150 to £175 for one. The real downside to spending a lot of money on an old but well constructed machine is the possibility of another part failing however small that is no longer available. 🙁
I have managed to change a couple of those without removing the tub, it was a major squeeze and getting the hose clips off and then back on was a real pain. 🙁
Officially it is a tub off job.
If the pump you are talking about sits virtually in the front, right hand corner then that is the main circulation pump. As Dave says if that isn’t working then no water will be pumping around the system and it will not heat.
Did you remove the pcb completely from the holder and check for signs of burning on the back of the pcb?
On older machines the wiring harness can break near the hinge where it bends. These models are not as prone to this type of failure as others though. Also not sure if the pcb is still available. It was made obsolete more than 10 years ago but then came back in stock. Not cheap especially for such an old machine even if you can still get one.
The assembly complete with cover will slide out from the metal backplate if you locate the correct securing lugs. Then you should be able to open the two halves of the plastic holder. This plastic does become rather brittle with age. If it is the pcb then the damage is usually obvious. As it is a known fire risk resoldering the joints is not advisable.
As a rough guide the service manual I have for this model is dated 2001. Your machine will be around 18 to 20 years old. 😉
Heater reading is fine.
Some of these had the ID label stuck directly onto the top edge of the inner tub, just under the top. Most of them also had the very difficult to see, etched serial plate along the top, inner edge of the door. Again you need to get it at just the right angle to see it clearly.Most of this model range was subjected to safety recall many years ago for pcb faults. Not sure how would stand given the advanced age of this appliance?
Yes, I did a bit of Googling without much success.I have asked them to drag it out to see if there are any other numbers or ID on it.As a new one is a silly £2000 they are hoping to get a part for it. Especially as the club is closed, all staff apart from steward laid off, finances at small members clubs is tight at the best of times. 🙁
This is a Bosch based machine and the heating element is part of the heater flow chamber. This involves a massive strip down and even experienced engineers baulk at doing these. The inner tub does have to be completely removed. Basically, top off, sides off, door off, complete inner tub off. Getting it all back together is the really tricky part.
Are you certain the element has failed, it’s far more common for the control module to suffer burnt out solder joints to cause this fault.
Have you tested the element across it’s terminals for continuity and resistance?
The up and down arrows are for raising and lowering the rear feet, may not even be used on a free standing machine, usually for built in appliances. The base could well be used across a wide range of machines.
