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Owain, what is it you’re trying to download and getting that speed from or is it anything at all?
If it’s some of the PTP sharing programs I may know why.
K.
Magic! I’m really pleased that’s produced some results, it will take time to grow and mature but it’s really good to know it’s not a wasted effort.
K.
IIRC it’s against H&S to work without wearing suitable footwear, so I would assume that wearing none is just not on at all. I tell customer’s that anyway and have done for years so there must be good reason I do so.
Are dust sheets not worse, they’d slide about on the floor when you stood on them, greater risk still if you ask me. Sorry I have to think on this from an employer’s standpoint as if the engineer fell and headbutted a worktop he’d be claiming my insurance!
K.
No need, the part number for the clock is 816290347 and is listed at £113.61 excluding VAT.
Bear in mind though that it is a special order spare for almost any of us and as such is non-returnable. There are also several variants of the A42 cooker so it would be best to check the rating plate for the full model information to ensure you get the correct spare.
K.
Yes, it would do that but you’d probably get no fan other than the cooling fan maybe if you ran the small oven.
Clocks in the main you can kiss goodbye to about £80 excl VAT and upwards for, with most VFD electronic ones over £100 I’m afraid. I’ve only ever replaced two on Smeg appliances and both were over £100 if I recall correctly. Repairable at board level, maybe, but you’d be needing access to some custom components most likely and the manufacturers (all that I’ve encountered) do not do that for an oven timer.
K.
More than likely the clock has failed by the sounds of that, which ain’t cheap I’m afraid. 🙁
Is that the part you’re after?
Smeg stuff is fine in general we have few problems with it at all and many of the issues with service, which were mostly spares supply related, are pretty much a thing of the past now. There are no repetitive failures other than clogging dishwasher side-chambers that I’m aware of and even that is pretty much okay and not a major issue at all.
HTH
K.
As an ex-Candy service agent explaining blood loss on the customer’s lino is nothing new to me! 😆
I never paid much heed to it TBH, except for an engineer that once asked, at the start of the AIDS epedemic, what happened if he caught it from working on a machine with cut hands. 😕
Now there’s an interesting question.
K.
I’ve (personally) never done free estimates and I never will.
As Penguin rightly points out it costs to get to the door, then there’s the time involved and the diagnosis which, let’s face it, is 90{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} of actually repairing the machine. Why should anyone be asked to do that for free?
K.
Re: New member saying hello!
Ray9500 wrote:Hi, just signed up and thought it was time to say hello 😀
I have only just found this site and i’m still trying to take in all the info.
This site has already helped me solve a dishwasher problem so a big thanks to this site and the people on it and running it 😉Thanks Ray, it’s a labour of love this is and I’m glad that the site has proved of use to you already I hope it continues to do so in the future.
It’s also nice to get feedback, especially positive feedback! 😀
K.
Re: Dishwasher installation fault?
That would probably be a Brandt in disguise then. 😉
As a general rule, if I cannot get an appliance out in under ten minutes or there is a risk of damage to teh appliance or customer’s property then I’d walk away from it. As far as I am concerned, in those sircumstances, the appliance has not been installed in a manner that leaves it accessible for service and I will politely explain to the customer why, most customer’s understand and usually acknowledge what they’re being told. There are however those that do not.
Why do I do this?
Simple, years of bitter, bitter experience working with builders and some real idiot kitchen fitters who give absolutely no thought whatsoever to the poor sucker that has to follow behind and get the thing back out, they see it as a permanent fixture. Most don’t even seem to bother reading the installation instructions. So, from that experience I have learned that the best possible way to deal with such situations is to have a set of giudlines and stick by them from the outset. That means that when you walk onto a site and the half wits have tiled up to the plynth you walk away on the FIRST visit then everyone knows what the score is and it’s resolved one way or another for the future. I’m sorry, but with a lot of builders you have to be cruel to be kind.
The same goes for kitchen fitters, most of them soon get the message after THEY have the cost and hassle to go back and rectify the installation. As I am fond of telling some of the local ones, we’re there to repair the appliance not strip the kitchen down to get to it and if they woudl liek to pay us the extra labour charges we’ll gladly do it. Most seem to decline for some reason. 😉
As for the plug top, well there’s an interesting one. IIRC building regulations are a bit vauge on that point and i have seen them installed as you describe and, if they try to install Whirpool (or badged up versions) of the under-counter integrated jobs they’ll be left with them sticking out if they install so. What I always ask for if possible, is that any integrated appliance is installed to a switched spur, the switch above the worktop so that the customer can isolate the appliance should the need arise. After all, let’s say you get an overfill fault on the washer and the appliance locks into a fill, power off on the front doesn’t work… how does the customer switch it off? If the casing goes live, how does an eighty year old (not you Martin ;)) get in and switch the power off to the appliance? It’s these little things that are pennies at the build stage to put in place but can save so much hassle later.
Of course, if memory serves me correctly, all appliances must now be supplied with a molded plug under EU legislation but all integrated appliances used to be supplied with bare wires. That only adds to the confusion.
I could go on and on for hours on this subject but I’ll shut it. 😀
K.
Not a lot of experience with them yet, but from what I’ve seen with regard to price/performance I’d be swaying towards the Creative one.
The iPod is more “trendy” and does have a huge range of add-ons, but at a cost.
K.
You’re too cheap 😉
£50 straight fee for end users, higher for gas and “sundry” charges for the bearing/re-gas jobs irrespective of the time spent.
K.
Hi Rickla,
We do Smeg here and I don’t consider us expensive at all, especially compared with most other trades that call to the home.
However, what you’ve been told is not entirely true in that the most obvious cause would be a heater or thermostat failure, both of which are relatively well priced from Smeg TBH. Or it could just be that the wash stat has tripped and a simple labour charge will put it right. I would be very surprised if it was the one and only PCB in the appliance that was faulty given the description. Also there is NO diagnostic software for any Smeg appliance to date.
What I often find is that a lot of the local repairers don’t see too many of these and that leads to a fear of them which is unjustified and they have had no training at all on the appliances and therefore are totally unfamiliar with them. Unfortunately the old adage holds true when it come to service largely, “you get what you pay for”.
K.
