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I’d not be immensely shocked.
What is shocking is that regulators are allowing the takeover of so many Western businesses by Chinese companies.
K.
Unless you set it on fire (literally!), there’s nothing given off it.
Even an old, old fridge will have a couple hundred or so grams of gas in it, anything remotely modern will be R134a or R600a neither of which, unless you almost breath it and nothing else wouldn’t cause any harm.
See, there’s all this health and safety stuff makers have to adhere to, kinda makes them being largely inert or as inert as possible a thing.
But I have seen foodstuffs spilled in them, inside and out creating the most horrid of smells etc but, that’s got bog all to do with the appliance.
I’m not a doctor but I know abut refrigeration.
If I were you I’d contact a doctor if you are unwell, I can’t help with that.
K.
Nope, that’s the parts that make up the door.
Taking it apart and putting it back together you’re expected to figure out.
K.
There’s no notes or anything that would support that, if the heater is kaput, it’s kaput and so far as I can tell it’s a single heating circuit and if it was gone I’d expect to see an error code.
Ditto if it didn’t heat anywhere, including on dry, you’d expect an error code.
The turbidity sensor is a red herring, that determines if the water is clean enough, if not rinse again, if okay proceed the program. It’s got nothing to do with heating. But in that model it’s a combined heat and turbidity sensor, this one where it performs double duty as both sensors in one. It’s possible that’s the problem but I couldn’t guarantee it.
K.
On service manuals:
What they likely mean is to clean and check all contacts to the boards. Or look for some sort of issue with the harness.
But above is about as good as you get, even if you get a manual as repairers as well as everyone else will be pointed in a general direction of what to look for and at, but you will not get blow-by-blow instructions.
K.
I don’t know how it’s setup installation wise etc but if you consider your own logic, the heater should work or not, the water be hot or not.
If the control mechanism is telling it to heat, it heats, if not it won’t.
It’s very binary so when people say on things like this, that it sorta heats or not then it’s very often a wrong assumption. Sorry there’s no way to sugar coat that for you.
The only way is to investigate and determine the issue, there are no shortcuts. Hence saying to check the heater, not replace the heater.
K.
You would expect it to work, or not with no in-between but without checking it and eliminating that as the problem there’s no way to be sure.
The temperature will be controlled by a thermistor or thermostat.
K.
I don’t know that this is much help but, in the service stuff is says the following:
[TABLE=”cellpadding: 0, cellspacing: 0″]
[TR]
[TD]User interface isn’t responding / does not work.[/TD]
[TD]# Clean user interface (buttons and display).[/TD]
[TD]•Wiring harness / connector.
•User interface.
•Control unit.[/TD]
[/TR]
[/TABLE]K.
Nope.
And even if you did get an odour from them, it’s a tiny amount of gas so it’d be gone in no time at all.
K.
Appliances do not produce odours as such and certainly not strong ones unless there is an obvious problem, only what’s put in them does.
K.
Normally if that happens it’s restricted airflow and/or the surrounding air is too warm to allow the condenser to get cool enough to effectively condense the water.
K.
No problem and it does not require soldering.
There is no such thing as a “qualified” hood repairer, only those with training and experience.
K.
