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kwatt
KeymasterVery sad, I got the full (or as full as I could get) story here:
K.
kwatt
KeymasterI don’t think you’re alone in that but, speaking to people, it doesn’t seem as if many people are busy at all or have been for a while.
K.
kwatt
KeymasterIt is probably one or more of the ignition switches on the gas taps that will be stuck for some reason. Those are under the hob top attached to the valves.
K.
kwatt
KeymasterIt’s an error code, you need to count the flashes by the look of it as per:
R.G. 132011 D2b) All LEDs are lighted fixed. The BUZZER beeps once. Should any ERROR be present in the Memory, the machine displays the last ERROR that happened in time. ALL LEDs blink at 2 Hz for a number of times equivalent to the Error Number (see the Error Description Table) and contemporarily the display visualizes the error number. i.e. In case of Clogged Filter Error = E 7, all LEDs blink 7 times at 2 Hz. After the blinking sequence, the LEDs are turned off for 3 seconds and then the Error Displaying sequence starts again. This condition is maintained until the moment the Start button is pressed. Press again the Start button, the buzzer beeps once and the test goes on. N.B. the Start button has to be pressed twice only if there is an error to display.
K.
kwatt
KeymasterThere’s not a diagnostic tool for it but, can you get the serial number and I’ll try to see what it’s telling you?
K.
kwatt
KeymasterCorrect but the cut in and out temps differ for wet wall and older ones like that which normally need a defrost heater as well.
K.
kwatt
KeymasterYes, they are designed for surface, not air use.
K.
kwatt
KeymasterIf the machine drains constantly but is empty and not blocked then the electronics probably think there’s still water in it.
So, that likely means that the pressure hose is blocked or the pressure sensor is faulty.
Any reset will not solve that.
K.
kwatt
KeymasterBy the time they “recall” them, there’ll be a lot less to worry about. 😉
I doubt it’ll come to much now.
K.
kwatt
KeymasterCorrect. Explained in more depth here:
Exchanges are the last thing either a manufacturer or retailer wants to be doing and why they avoid it like the plague and why they pay you guys to fix them, not walk in and condemn them, as much as you might want to. 😉
And, why they all get huffy and shirty when you do so as, in their view of the world, they’re paying you to prevent that.
Once it gets to an unsustainable level, they bin the agent as it’s no longer cost effective to use them.
But the repairer’s view is that, if it for example needs and full tank at say £200 it’s more cost effective and better for the customer to replace the machine when, once you see the cost to provide a replacement, just isn’t the case. The cost to exchange, plus the cost of the product makes that not a viable business model.
And on some contracts, where you get beat up on spares usage guess what one of the KPI’s (I hate that term) is? That’s right, parts costing so as you see more sealed assemblies that cost more, your costs go up, you look bad through absolutely no fault of yours.
That’s all fine and dandy until it’s you getting the bill for the parts then waiting to get paid so, you’re out the cash between the job being completed and getting paid. Bet hardly anyone’s given thought to what that costs them.
So you see, though I opened this topic from a purely customer-centric and environmental angle there’s actually more to it and it damages repairers more than they may realise aside the blindingly obvious loss of repair business.
K.
kwatt
KeymasterIf I were to guess, I’d suspect the diverter valve was the problem as they can be on those models.
It’s this part if you need it but do try to check it first, it’s attached to the sump:
https://shop.ukwhitegoods.co.uk/1786500100-dishwasher-diverter-valve
K.
kwatt
KeymasterThe problem is being looked at by the EU and they do intend to take action on the subject of repairs with sealed and unrepairable units being a particular area of interest due to the environmental concerns surrounding that.
As tub units are not used, low volume due to the price of them, you can find examples obsolete after a few years among other things and that is harming repairers. And, even if you ignore all that, changing one an outer tank, drum and whatever are all being used, the old one disposed of with absolutely no requirement for generating that waste other than, it makes a few repairer’s lives easier, reduces service cost to manufacturers I suppose as well. But it’s an incredibly wasteful practice however you slice it.
How people pay for a car isn’t relevant, my point is that it is a status symbol and therefore treated accordingly.
Appliances are not other than the kitchen showpiece ones.
K.
kwatt
KeymasterI don’t know what it’s doing but there’s this note to clear it:
SET THE PROGRAMS KNOB BACK TO OFF AND UNPLUG THE MACHINE.LET THE MACHINE BE OFF POWER FOR AT LEAST 30 seconds, to be sure that the Self-test procedure has been reset. Actually, the washing machines with these power cards remain in the “standby” condition (electrically powered power card) even if the Programs Knob is in the OFF position.
They only seem to have digital error codes on that one, E3 etc that should be in the display.
K.
kwatt
KeymasterI don’t know why you’d think there was anything nefarious as, if there was I could easily have priced that shelf within a few pounds of what you’d found or been told. I didn’t, I was trying to do you a favour.
Fridge plastics are moulded specifically to fit the cabinet or door and do so to within a fraction of a millimetre, they have to absolutely bang on or they won’t fit at all.
So for door shelves, if wrong they’ll not fit or fall off. Drawers and shelves inside the same or they won’t sit correctly where they should do.
From sizes, you cannot see this as they’re all much the same size cabinet wise and internally you can find scores about the same but that’s not to say that they would fit or fit correctly as the mouldings can vary wildly. From images, you’ve got no hope normally.
That means you need the bang on correct part for a particular cabinet or it will not fit. Pretty much, that’s it.
You can choose to try other things of course if you so choose but, I can only tell you what will fit correctly as appropriate and, if there are alternatives, present them. For internal refrigeration parts, plastics, shelves etc referred to as furniture, there 99.999999{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} of the time isn’t any as they are so exact by their nature as explained above.
Gorenje does not supply the trim as a separate part and there is not any way at all to track down anything that might fit in its place, even as a bodge job.
For those of us in the trade, we understand this and just accept it, you order the correct part/s or it won’t fit.
K.
kwatt
KeymasterI’m afraid the only way to get that trim is attached to the glass, no other option.
K.
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