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electrofix wrote:that makes more sense
all they have done is go in and out of the ovenso wire goes from switch to oven and oven to hob
chances are with the oven you have the terminal block will not be big enough to take 2 6mm cables so you will need to add a 30a 3 terminal joint box and you will need a short peice of cable to go from the box to the oven
Dave
Do you think that was a dangerous circuit configuration? The old oven element died, wondering if it was overloaded when hob and oven on together.
When you say terminal block do you mean the connection unit white box junction back plate thing? You’re saying I may need another one?
Can’t I just use a double appliance one? Like this.
There’s spare cable on the old oven. Thanks Dave, good man.https://drive.google.com/file/d/1eSsLftxved_YkbPkGI-yfDYrABo03RtI/view?usp=drivesdk
Old oven connections
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1gZfT9OtnRjP5lO_eYUw76aTTldxwF-7n/view?usp=drivesdkMy speculative wiring diagram.
Btw the new oven needs a minimum “3mm contact opening circuit breaker, rated 32a and a delayed functioning type must be installed inside supply circuit”
Thanks for the comments guys.
Update. Both cables from the old oven are 6 mm heavy ones. Forget what I said about the 3 pin wall socket.
The hob was connected directly to the oven, piggy back/in series like Don said. I was thrown due to the lhs cable going away the door 50amp wall switch. The light does work.
Now I’m thinking that there’s a connection unit I cannot find yet that connects it all together. So I need to find out if it’s a single or dual appliance unit and connect up them both to it, new oven and hob? What do you think?
Pics included. The cable going behind the cupboard is going in the opposite direction to the wall switch is left and wall switch is to the right of the hob.
Cheers!
electrofix wrote:dont see why you cut 2 cables.
the oven is a single cavity oven capable of being fed off a 13a plug. cant say about the old one as i can get no pictures of it but i assume its the same size so that too should have one cableso what was the other cable you cut and why ?
Dave
Hi Dave,
The ovens are the same size and the new one sorted into the cavity nicely. The new oven has a single 13 amp cable.
The old Hygena oven had two cables connected to it. One to a 13 amp plug, one up towards the wall switch.
I had to cut both to remove the oven from the cavity or it would still be there. Now the hob just doesn’t work for some reason.
Matt
https://www.sparkswarehouse.com/products/kb-st8332n-45a-dp-switch-double-plate-w-neo
Wall switch
Was thinking this device may be the CU that both oven and hob are connected to
electrofix wrote:dont know what you have done to be honest and what your saying does not make a lot of sense
need to know what cables you have cut and where pictures would be good but size constraints will prob mean hosting them on another site and posting a public link
the Hob needs wiring directly into the 50A main Its a heavy wire so did you cut this one ?
the oven probably will wire into the 13a plug but you need to look into the manual. RH is a junk make these days, gone are the days of it being a quality british brand. You would have been better with Beko, Spares are easier and 2 year guarentee
Dave
Thanks for the reply Dave, I agree I was waffling a bit! Late and a bit squiffy!
I told her about RH but she wouldn’t listen, the SIA had good reviews and a 5 year guarantee! I don’t have any photos.
I’ll try and be clearer. So we removed the old electric oven, it had two cables that I had to cut. One went up to a normal 3 pin 13 amp plug socket, the other towards the wall mounted dipole 50 amp switch. The electric hot plate hob is entirely separate.
Upon reading up on the wiring I understand these appliance are routed via a dual connection unit which I haven’t seen yet, perhaps behind a cupboard.
Upon cutting the cable to the oven the hob now doesn’t work. Question is why not? Is it because the remains of the oven cable is still wired but severed at one end and removing will solve? The wall switch light still illuminates.
Thanks
Mattypompy99 wrote:The model of the replacement is RHEO 6501ss. It has what looks like standard three wire connectors, will this need hard wiring into the 50amp switch, or connecting to the remaining section of devious oven’s cable?
Thanks
I’m thinking after a bit of reading, that the old oven cable needs removing from the connection unit as it’s creating an open circuit?? Then the hob will work. Also the new oven cable is just a 13 amp hobby, nothing in the manual about it!
Mattypompy99 wrote:The model of the replacement is RHEO 6501ss. It has what looks like standard three wire connectors, will this need hard wiring into the 50amp switch, or connecting to the remaining section of devious oven’s cable?
Thanks
Previous not devious!
The model of the replacement is RHEO 6501ss. It has what looks like standard three wire connectors, will this need hard wiring into the 50amp switch, or connecting to the remaining section of devious oven’s cable?
Thanks
£69. Pain in the bum to fit though by looking at some vids. My cut my losses. Anyway to confirm for sure it’s the spider?
Thanks
