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MaxwellD
ParticipantRe: Siemens IQ300 E15 and flashing tap
Imho for dishwashers:
Miele > Siemens/Bosch > Samsung/Beko > Electrolux
Why samsung and beko before electrolux? Because they don’t typically make irreparable machines, electrolux do!
MaxwellD
ParticipantRe: Dirt residue on upper tray glasses only
If it’s none of the above, alternatively I’ve seen dishwashers that will get sand/grit between the upper sprayarm and it’s seal, wearing them out pronto, when that happens the spray arm will hang to one side, causing it to hit the upper basket and stop moving around, the result being that your glasses (usually top tray) aren’t being washed and come out dirty.
October 30, 2016 at 8:06 pm in reply to: Zanussi DCE 5655 keeps pumping even when I open the door #442043MaxwellD
ParticipantRe: Zanussi DCE 5655 keeps pumping even when I open the door
Look for water drips? 🙂
Leaks are sometimes difficult to pinpoint, your best bet is to let it wash on the highest temperature, and then just sit with it until you see water dripping down.
MaxwellD
ParticipantRe: Bosch SGV53E03GB flood
These washers are very robust, i wouldn’t just dump it because it’s 9.5 years old, especially over a leak.
Feel free to go out and buy a brand new candy or something, see you back in 2-3 years 😉
By the sound of it i think it’s the bottom door seal (not the one that goes around the whole door, but in the bottom sort of between the stainless panel and the outside cover panel). If this is the model i think it is, it’s a cheap part, but it’s a p.i.t.a. to replace. You’ll have to disassemble the door panel, put two screwdrivers into the holes on the door hinges to keep them from popping closed, then fiddle the new rubber inbetween the interior doorpanel and the hinges. If a hinge pops closed while you’re doing the repair, there’s a good chance the doorrubber will be broken… or your finger.
So be careful, and good luck 😉
MaxwellD
ParticipantRe: AEG DISHWASHER
Check for water in the base, if there is any, check the pipe in the back corner for leak, also dry out the heater connector make sure there no water in it.
If it’s a model with internal pipe, then check the pressure switch. Pull the hose off the pressure switch and blow into the hose to make sure it’s clear and doesn’t have water in it, if you notice a sag in the presso tube then tie it up with a tyrap. Check the pressostat for switching action (small click from the device, also it should close one connection and open another when the click occurs).
If all that checks out you could try cleaning the turbidity sensor (small round brown thing at the left front, pull it out and clean it with a toothbrush). If it still has the fault then you’ll need a new PCB.
MaxwellD
ParticipantRe: MFI Diplomat ADP8224 Burning PCB Damage..
You’ll have to clean the carbon off the board after repair or chances are the terminals will arch to each other (short!), in fact i’m not sure if that isn’t already happening.
MaxwellD
ParticipantRe: Bosch SBV69U80EU/01 Not filling properly
I’ve since learned that this is apparently a microfuse. Since i’ve already ordered the new heater and installing a new microfuse is a very delicate matter I’ve decided to bin it for now.
Meanwhile the dishwasher is working fine having replaced the sump gasket, as it was leaking (jeez this thing had a lot of issues!).
Thanks for the help all!
MaxwellD
ParticipantRe: Bosch SGS45E02 ‘not washing or completing cycle’
Check the inlet valve.
Take an ohms measurement in the Komh range to clear it electrically. See if it’s getting main power when it should (during fill ie, you should hear it “buzz”). Also check if the little cap (piston housing) is nice and clear, if it looks brown/rusty on the inside it will be jammed up. You can free them up with WD40 and a small round steel brush, but it will likely cease up again in the future, best is to replace it.
If the valve checks out next is the flow meter and the inlet housing, check the latter for scale and gunk build up making it activate the flood switch prematurely or intermittently.
MaxwellD
ParticipantRe: Bosch SBV69U80EU/01 Not filling properly
So it’s been a while, been too busy with work to mess around with the dishwasher, but had some time over the weekend courtesy of bad weather.
So i managed to get the machine up and running again… sort of. The issues it had seem to be resolved by replacing the reed and heater. However now it’s decided to sprung a leak triggering the flood switch. It will probably be a dubious and lengthy process of tracking down the leak as it seems… forklift is looking more and more reasonable right now ;-).
On a side-note; I’ve had a look at the broken heater and it seems the heating filament itself is fine, however a small component which was across the neutral feed and the heating filament seems to have failed. I suspect this might be a PTC, but there are no markings so i’m left guessing. Maybe someone here knows what this might be?

MaxwellD
ParticipantRe: Miele dishwasher Sc 1220 problem
Ups.
I’d let it dry for more than a day tbh, several days at least. Cold water does not evaporate so easily, especially in confined spaces.
MaxwellD
ParticipantRe: Not heating water
Have you checked to see if the heater is getting mains power?
MaxwellD
ParticipantRe: Bosch SBV69U80EU/01 Not filling properly
Yes the valves are both fine. I’ve confirmed them with a basic ohms measurement, and i’ve also confirmed they are getting mains power. The problem is purely in the electronics, the reed, the wheel itself or the main module. I have also seen the dishwasher fill the heat exchanger completely during wash from time to time, so it seems as though it only occurs under certain circumstances.
I can easily replace the circulation heat-pump if need be as i have spares, however I haven’t seen any need thus far as it was working properly (except for the filling issue) before yesterday when it stopped heating all together. It’s possible the heater on the pump is also faulty, but it measures just fine. The heater for the zeolite measures infinite so it’s definitely faulty.
I’m going to do some more measurements on the heatpump tomorrow, see if it’s getting mains power during wash cycle.
The biggest problem here is that i’m unsure exactly how this machine is supposed to operate during various programs and so i’m not sure what to look for.
I’m going to order the reed and the zeolite heater, see what happens. If that doesn’t work i’m going to swap out the heatpump and powermodule. If it does not work after that i’m going to crush it with my forklift 😉
I’ll report my findings here.
MaxwellD
ParticipantRe: beko dwd4310w no heat
Can you “hear” the relay click on when the heater is supposed to come on? If you can hear that then it should be working unless there is a break in the main to the heater or a break on the board itself.
MaxwellD
ParticipantRe: Bosch SBV69U80EU/01 Not filling properly
The machine also does not heat the water at all. Is it possible that the machine is simply skipping the heating all together because it’s detecting the faulty zeolite heater? If i understand correctly the zeolite heater only comes into play during drying and the heater inside the pump should be working to heat the water, however it does not. I’ve confirmed that the heater inside the pump is in working condition.
The fill valve is ok.
MaxwellD
ParticipantRe: Bosch SGS43C02GB not filling
The door is supposed to be receiving power after prewash, when the heater comes on.
If you have a short/fast program (usually around 30 minutes) then the door will open after only a few minutes, so you should be getting a reading fairly quickly. If it’s not getting power and the leads are ok, then you’ll have to check at the module itself. If you’re not getting a reading there then you’ll have to replace or repair the module.
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