Forum Replies Created
-
Posts
-
andyjawa wrote:
Aluminum alloy: there are around 8 types that could be used in a washing machine as far as I know for use as material for spiders ( It will be doubtful that it would be the best used in a washing machine but some might / are better than others but then there is no known numbers to back this up with i.e. a wonderous success rate or otherwise). There is a video with some chap moaning and groaning with a Samsung that is not very old with a totally rotted out spider so unless he did something crazy or was just unlucky I can only put that down one down to poor material used as he himself concluded.
As for finding out X brands alloy grade / type used I never asked any manufacturer because I think it would have been a waste of time expecting a reply;If it is of any interest, Whirlpool in the US, used 413 aluminium alloy for their spider on post 2005 machines. Prior to that they used 383 aluminium alloy, which according to their research on why they had a high failure rate is more vulnerable to microbially induced intergranular corrosion, due to its higher copper content, especially if excessive chlorine based bleach is used (popular in the US along with cold water washing). They also redesigned their plastic tubs, moving the reinforcement ribs to the outside, to make the inside smooth and redesigned the spider to try to get rid of pockets that trapped grime and let it self rinse better. And developed Affresh, a sodium percarbonate based cleaner and added maintenance cleaning cycles to their machines, to deal with biofilm influenced corrosion of the spider and complaints about smelly machines.
The current ingredients of Dr Beckmann service-it deep clean washing machine cleaner contains TAED as well as sodium percarbonate, as does Vanish ( and Persil powder detergent), which produce per(oxy)acetic acid when added to water, a more powerful “oxygen bleach” than the hydrogen peroxide produced by sodium percarbonate alone. It kills bacteria and breaks down organic matter. [h=3][/h] DR. BECKMANN SERVICE-IT DEEP CLEAN WASHING MACHINE CLEANER
Disinfection product. Contains 3 g/100 g TAED and 19.5 g/100 g SPC as biocidal precursor for peracetic acid production.There a promotional video, by the now defunct Warwick Chemicals demonstrating the effectiveness of SPC + TAED oxygen bleach at killing bacteria etc in a washing machine here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1NmsV6XAbuY&list=PLpa5kIF6i9KeaAAzFlMCYg_IiAvh0TSYJ&pp=gAQB
I use a powder detergent which has oxygen bleach already in it and wash at 40°C, and rarely use liquids (only if washing delicates like silk and wool as oxygen bleach would break down the protein based fibres), so I’ve never needed to clean my 16 year old old machine, I just descale it once a year with citric acid, and it was clean inside with no corrosion or biofilm yuk when I changed the bearings.
There’s an old Electrolux (AEG/zanussi etc) heat pump service manual from 2010 there may still be enough similarities, quite possibly including the diagnostic functions, to be useful. https://shop.electroluxarabia.com/Co…/728/934EN.pdf
And here’s a 2013 one
https://www.scribd.com/document/212809501/Electrolux-Dryer-HeatpumpPossibly the 1/2 button might be stuck down, or a failed switch (or even water got in the panel)? That could explain why it comes on with 1/2 lit, and child lock being engaged when the delay button is also held down.
The water is quite hard here, about 360 mg/l (ppm). I use anhydrous citric acid to descale my washing machine once a year, which seems to work well enough, although I do have a bit of limescale in the folds of the seal. It is 16 years old though, and I didn’t descale it for the first few years, until it started causing elements to fail and blocking and jamming the coin trap! Not having a softener does of course mean I need to use a lot more detergent powder.
I have seen advice that softened water may promote corrosion of aluminium spiders, in fact a friend was told that too, when his 2 year old machine failed, but I’m not sure if that’s correct. The main causes I’m aware of are bacterial related.
You can get manual water softeners, which sort of resemble a fire extinguisher and are usually used with warewashers, but a washing machine would presumably use a great deal more water, so not sure you’d get a worthwhile number of cycles out of a modest sized one, between needing a manual recharge with salt and a flush.
That can happen when a relay sticks, it may only take a slight knock to break the “weld” between the contacts. It will sooner or later, but probably sooner, stick on again if that was the fault. I sometimes give a relay a bit of a “gentle” rap with usually the handle of a screwdriver as a quick check, if I’m convinced it is stuck, and to keep something working while I find and order a suitable replacement relay.
Tebbyals wrote:I had something similar with my dryer last winter, and it ended up being the start capacitor—it was cheap to swap and sorted it right out.
Mine was stalling over a year ago, the start/run capacitor was down a fair bit when I measured it and could do with replacing, but I noticed the folded bits of steel that the drum rim slots into and the pads are mounted on, were packed solid with lint fluff, scrapped that out with a little screwdriver and it’s been running fine since. I’m intending to replace it with a heat pump, so I didn’t bother order a new cap.
Maybe something like the freezer alarm I have, which is a fridge/freezer thermometer with dual wireless sensors that have enough range to work in an adjoining room. It’s the same as this one, although different brand and was much cheaper: https://www.amazon.co.uk/ORIA-Thermometer-Temperature-Refrigerator-Restaurants/dp/B07B9QZHLS I did initially have trouble with the AA batteries in the freezer sensor going rapidly flat because of the extreme cold, but found reasonable quality low self discharge NiMH batteries, such as Eneloop work for months once they’ve been through a few cycles of being used in the freezer allowed to warm up to room temperature and then recharged.
A smart temperature sensor that works via a Zigbee hub with something like Homeassistant might be a better option though, as you could probably set it up to send you an alert if he doesn’t sort if out himself within a reasonable time after the alarm goes off, but much more involved to set up.Only thing I do is descale my machine once in a blue moon, I’ve got very hard water and it used to blow the element after 2 – 3 years and seized up the filter, before I started doing that.
And I do check for play in the drum bearings once in a while, although that didn’t give me any warning with my current machine as the inner bearing seized due to rust from leaking seal, fortunately my zanussi is old enough that it doesn’t have a sealed tub.
16vmini wrote:
I see there is a sperate driver board for the motor ? does anyone have any tips to check , i put meter on motor when running drying cycle , i do not seem to get any voltage .If you plan on replacing components on the inverter board yourself, make sure the large reservoir capacitor is fully discharged first, so you don’t receive a shock. It can hold a charge for a while after the machine is unplugged, so before working on it, if you don’t have a capacitor discharge tool, check the DC voltage across its terminals with your meter.
Its interesting that LG put a filter in that newer US sized model, but didn’t in their smaller versions, although having the filter access on the top is not ideal. I believe both have self cleaning coils. I expect he’s wrong about the tub element being used to boost the drying temperature. At least it doesn’t have the daft oversized door with the control panel in it.
Samsung also have an oversized heat pump washer dryer in the US, no videos yet: https://www.haneyapplianceandsound.c…g-wd53dba900hz
Here’s a better video of the AEG showing someone cleaning out the accumulated lint. https://youtu.be/6NffImYVF1I
There is also the LG Signature: https://www.lg.com/uk/laundry/washer-dryers/lswd100e/
It’s got one of those suspension systems where the drum moves and the tub is fixed, which might explain the reviews on that page complaining about socks getting stuck and torn clothes.
Below are a couple of videos showing a little of the innards of similar models sold in other markets.
I’m no expert, but the heat pump heat exchangers look quite small to me, to make it all fit in a standard sized appliance. The LG is actually rather deep.
They look complex and time consuming to repair. I would want a very long guarantee to give a good chance of recovering the extra spend on the appliance in electricity savings.guranger wrote:I opened the motor cover and the cogs wont move and it motor seems to be jammed. i will have to get a pair of nose pliers tomorrow to see if i can free the motor
Should you be able to move the cogs by hand, have you tried doing that with the still working pump to confirm they are not prevented from turning due to their gearing and the design of the motor.
I would check the electrical connectors for corrosion. In the back of the draw they’ll be exposed to humid warm air.
Based on Dave’s suggestion, a quick google for the e01 error code on a bosch dishwasher suggest it could be low voltage on the control board, a drain pump, or heating issue
https://oceanapplianceservice.com/di…-do-they-mean/
This youtube posters says E01 on his bosch dishwasher was caused by something jamming the drain pump.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F6qK1jSxA7Y
Based on that I would check the drain pump and if not that, check the heating element with a multimeter for open circuit, and test the temperature sensor. I would then be removing the control board and testing it for faults with a multimeter, starting by trying to identify and test the components that operate those things.
