[TRS UK]

If the compressor never stops, it’s likely struggling to reach temperature, causing ice buildup and no defrost cycle. That usually means the sealed system or compressor is failing, replacement is the best option. Go for it. [USER=”7937″]andytw[/USER]

[TRS UK]

It’s likely a control panel or door sensorissue. Try unplugging the fridge for 10-15 minutes, dry around the display and seals, and check that the door is closing properly. If it keeps switching modes, the front control board may need replacing. I hope this helps.

[TRS UK]

Should I give you the link to look for the fridge freezer you want?

[TRS UK]

TRS UK wrote:If you’re after a full‑size freestanding freezer, Liebherr is the premium long‑term pick (they build many Miele units), Bosch/Siemens tend to be the best value (the Bosch twin to that ~£850 Siemens is often £50–£150 cheaper), with Hisense/Hotpoint as solid budget options; for garages/outbuildings choose Beko “Freezer Guard.” Prioritise NoFrost, ~250–320 L net capacity, SN‑T climate class, under 40 dB, a reversible door, and a decent warranty. For current UK prices/specs, check TRS UK: If you share your max height/width and budget, I can suggest exact models.

Mod edit: removed your unauthorised website link for commercial refrigeration. If you wish to advertise please contact admin for the current going rate.

Don

I am really sorry for what I did. I didn’t do that intentionally. However, next time I’ll ask the admin or the person who asked for the response or opinion.

[TRS UK]

A shorter thermostat capillary can’t sense the correct temperature range, so it may not trigger the cooling cycle properly. Try getting the proper length thermostat first, if it still doesn’t cool, the issue could be with the compressor or relay. However, buy a new one instead of spending money on the old one. I hope this helps.

[TRS UK]

It sounds like the compressor is struggling to start properly – the repeated clicking usually means the start relay or PTC thermistor is falling, not necessarily the compressor itself. Since you’ve already swapped the capacitor, try replacing the PTC starter/relay. If that doesn’t help, the compressor may be weak or partially seized. Given the age, weigh repair cost vs. replacement, but start with the relay first.

[TRS UK]

Lo usually means the room is too cold (<10°C) or already very dry, so it shuts the compressor and just runs the fan.
Try it in a warm, steamy bathroom or switch to Continuous/Laundry if it collects there; placement was the issue.
If it still shows Lo in a warm, humid room, clean the filter and reseat/replace the humidity sensor (common, inexpensive).
Refrigerant loss won’t normally trigger Lo; R290 repairs should be done by a shop.

[TRS UK]

Congrats on the new place! With your budget and needs, Bosch is a safe, long‑lasting choice; Liebherr is premium for cooling (they build many Miele fridges), and Blomberg is Beko’s sister brand with strong value/warranties.

What you’d buy:

• Bosch KGN362LDFG (60 cm NoFrost) + Bosch WQG245S9GB (9 kg heat‑pump, self‑cleaning condenser). Efficient, quiet, ideal for 3–4 dries/week. Often ~£1.2–£1.4k on promo.
• If you want a premium fridge feel: Liebherr 60 cm NoFrost tall + Bosch WQG245S9GB.
• Need to hit ~£1k: look at a Blomberg frost‑free 60 cm + Blomberg 8–9 kg heat‑pump (often 3‑yr guarantee).

[TRS UK]

Thanks for weighing in – I respect your experience with Liebherr of 25 years, which is great. If anything I’ve said is off for this specific model, could you please point to the exact point(s) and the correct approach (ideally part numbers or a service bulletin) so we can all learn.

[TRS UK]

Thanks for the detailed update. Since it’s still under the 2‑year guarantee and you’ve got a Liebherr engineer booked for Fri 10/10, it’s wise to pause DIY. What you describe does sound like a displaced drain tube or a stuck “duckbill” valve at the back. Please ask them to check the tube seating at both ends, the duckbill, and any kinks/insulation around the drain. Do let us know what they find-it’ll help others with the same issue.

[TRS UK]

On this Beko, a fridge that freezes is usually a stuck‑open air damper or a sensor/board mismatch, not the drain or defrost heater. Do a full 24‑hour defrost with doors open, then hold the door switch and feel the fridge vent while changing the setting; if airflow stays strong and doesn’t change, the damper is iced/jammed and needs replacing. Also, double‑check the fridge NTC you fitted is the correct value and in the right spot (Beko mixes 5k/10k sensors; the wrong one makes it overcool) and confirm the PCB is the exact CDA648FS/1 variant/config. I’d skip the drain/heater unless you’re chasing leaks or heavy frost.

[TRS UK]

If you’re after a full‑size freestanding freezer, Liebherr is the premium long‑term pick (they build many Miele units), Bosch/Siemens tend to be the best value (the Bosch twin to that ~£850 Siemens is often £50–£150 cheaper), with Hisense/Hotpoint as solid budget options; for garages/outbuildings choose Beko “Freezer Guard.” Prioritise NoFrost, ~250–320 L net capacity, SN‑T climate class, under 40 dB, a reversible door, and a decent warranty. For current UK prices/specs, check TRS UK: If you share your max height/width and budget, I can suggest exact models.

Mod edit: removed your unauthorised website link for commercial refrigeration. If you wish to advertise please contact admin for the current going rate.

Don

[TRS UK]

Start by confirming the temp properly: put a fridge thermometer in a glass of water mid‑shelf overnight (aim 3–5°C/37–41°F; freezer −18°C/0°F). Then reset and cover the basics-unplug 5 minutes, set controls to the middle, and let it stabilize for 24 hours. Don’t overpack or block vents, clean the condenser coils, and make sure it has good ventilation. Check door seals with a paper test and that the internal/condenser fans run; if there’s frost on the back panel, fully defrost for 24 hours and clear the drain. Freezer OK, but fridge warm usually means an iced/stuck air damper or fan; both sections’ warm points to dirty coils or a non‑running condenser fan.

[TRS UK]

This is pretty common on the CND5204. The fridge drain gums up, and the little rubber duckbill valve at the back sticks shut. Clear the drain hole from inside (use the Liebherr pin or a zip‑tie), then flush it with hot water plus a splash of vinegar/bicarb using a turkey baster or syringe until you see water run into the drip tray. Unplug, pop off the lower rear cover, pull the drain tube and duckbill, clean them thoroughly (you can trim the slit a touch wider), and clean the tray. Refit, level the fridge so it tilts slightly back, keep food off the back wall, and set ~4°C. If it blocks again soon, replace the duckbill/drain tube.

[TRS UK]

BWC600B should auto-defrost. If it’s icing up:

• Unplug and fully defrost (door open). Don’t chip ice.
• Clear the drain to the drip tray (warm water/baster).
• Clean condenser, ensure ventilation, set ~12–14°C.
• Check door seal (paper test), bottles off back wall, and fan runs when door switch is pressed.

If ice returns within a day or two, likely defrost sensor/heater/control issue or low refrigerant needs a tech.

[Author]

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