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Re: Hoover H160E stops mid cycle, during spin
Spot on Martin, thanks. Once again you helpful folks here on the forum come up trumps. Our old workhorse is now back in action.
Cheers.Re: Hoover H160E stops mid cycle, during spin
Reckon you’re right Martin. Just hoiked it out and looked at the brushes… down to about 12mm long, only just reaching the commutator.
Fair bit of rust around inside the case from past leaks. Think I’ll fix it one more time and plan on a replacement next time. We’ve had it at least 12 years I realise!Re: Whirlpool ADP4601WH door leak – advice/tips sought
Responding to my own post!
No other replies and very few posts in the forum for this model so hopefull that it’s not too prone to serious problems.
Ran the test program and it completed all clear, but as expected
resulted in a puddle at front LHS. Closer examination with bottom panel removed showed a drip down on the far LHS just in front of the regeneration water valve.Removed side panel and realised leak actually seemed to be coming from the main stainless steel casing. Close examination revealed a couple of, approx, 1mm holes in the front corner… no idea hoe they could have occurred.
After a bit of headscratching decided to try a bit of epoxy metal repair putty. 1 Hour later, leak fixed, fully functional dishwasher and happy daughter!
posting.php?mode=reply&f=33&t=69446#Re: H160E Stops mid program – Superwash flashing 5 times
Spot on Penguin.
Temperature sensor is intermittent; flex the contacts
apart and it reads OK, press them together and it goes o/c. probably a
mechanical connection failure inside the device. Just off to my friendly local
service centre to see if he has one in stock.Thanks again.
Just a quick update to confirm that now I have actually found time to fit the
new NTC all is working fine again.Thanks again folks… no doubt be back in about year for help fixing it’s
annual breakdown 😉Re: H160E Stops mid program – Superwash flashing 5 times
Penguin45 wrote:Temperature sensor problem. NTC sensor may have failed – check for a reading in kOhms, falling with heat. Broken wiring is possible, failing that, computer bord.
Penguin45.
Thanks – time to get my toolkit out and start digging… I’ll post my results.PS. 12:41 am?… don’t you ever sleep?
Re: Hoover H160E – not filling
Success! – (apologies for numerous replies to my own post but the info
may be of use to other browsers of this forum).Put everyting back together today and Lo it now works OK.
My suspicion is either the door interlock now working correctly after my
removal, close inspection and re-fit; not entirely convinced as my first
impressions that this must have been working as the machine was happy to spin.Then again perhaps it was the stern talking to I gave it last night with
threats of the landfill – and a few expletives!More likely there was a poor connection somewhere and my removal and
refit has re-made the connection. I did notice that the “EN” connector to the control module was a bit loose on re-fit so I “re-sprung” the
connecting blades to get a firmer fit. I also cleaned up the pcb
connectors too.Considering all the symptoms, I suspect that this connector from the
programmer knob may have been the most likely cause. I presume
these connections are low voltage and perhaps a combination of
poor connection plus not being run for a couple of weeks may have
allowed sufficient oxidation to buildup to confuse/corrupt the command
signal thus leading to the failure to activate the fill valve.Good news is that it now seems to be OK and is presently busy coping
with a bit of a backlog – should be a good test.Also hasn’t cost me a penny to fix – just lots of time but being recently
redundant and now early retired time is something I have plenty of
(as opposed to money!).The irony is that I now know more about this machine than ever since
we bought it 7 years ago. May not be the latest and greatest but with
service information so scarce on modern machines I’m happy to stick
with it until it really is time for the scrapper.Thanks to those who offered troubleshooting advice and information
(and for the kind concern over my safety) this really is a useful and
helpful forum.Re: Hoover H160E – not filling
OK – heater checks out OK (about 27 ohms cold).
Further examination of the control circuit reveals that the fill valves are
neutral switched by triacs and get their live in series with the pump.
This means that if the pump is o/c then they cannot operate. However
I’ve already measured the pump DC resistance as apprx 200 ohm.
(double check by connecting mains direct to pump – it runs taking approx
180mA) so looks to be OK.This design therefore means that anytime the pump is activated the fill
valves are automatically forced off. Now wondering if I have a fault that
is leaving the pump running all the time thus disabling the fill valves.
If this is the case then the question is whether its the control module
faulty leaving the pump activated or the programmer incorrectly telling
the control module to do so. Not sure which is most likely.Didn’t think to verify this before – time to put the bits back together and
have another look.Re: Hoover H160E – not filling
Quick update, have now checked out the door switch.
3 connections: green to pin 1, single white to 3 and white pair to 2.Pin 3 is connected to Live when machine is on with program selected.
Approx 1K between 1 and 3. Current from pin 3 to 1 operates a heat
activated delay switch to connect 3 and 2 together so looks like the switch
is OK after all.Time to pull the beast out further and check the heater.
Re: Hoover H160E – not filling
OK – checked the pump – DC resistance 200 ohm (measured as 190 when
I fitted it before so I think thats OK).Hmmm, haven’t checked (or ever repaced as far as I can recall) the heater;
would that also feature in part of the start up checks?I’m also having second thoughts about the door switch – there appear to be
1 green and three white wires going to it.The green I have traced to the control board (PN) connector. The three
whites are trickier to trace but one of them goes to the indicator lamp.
I find no continuity green to white with door open or closed. Guess I need
to get it out of the machine to have a closer look.There is a 5 minute safety timer on this model – not sure how that is
activatedRe: Hoover H160E – not filling
Point taken about plug out – but don’t worry, I am confident with what I’m
doing… plug out connect up temporary test jump lead (via isolation transformer) then a quick flick of switch whilst well clear of the machine
just long enough to confirm operation.Think the pump is probably OK as the machine was empty from it’s last
run but I’ll double check tomorrow. I’ve changed the pump before after
it got jammed and suffered a trauma.Not sure why a faulty pump would stop the machine filling though – I seem
to recall it was quite happy to fill last time the pump went south.I’m also slightly suprised that there seem to be no error lights/code evident
(not that I know how to interpret them!)Thanks for the pointer – let’s see what happens tomprrow.
Re: Hoover H160E – door hinge replacement tips sought
Quick note to say thanks to all – machine now back in operation with new hinge in place (after delay due to me ordering the wrong part number.. doh!!) Still got all fingers in tact too.
Typical, in the meantime had to fix the cental heating boiler (dead thermocouple) but that’s a whole other story.
I’m sure domestic appliances have their own network and conspire amongst each other for maximum wind-up.
Vic
Re: Hoover H160E – door hinge replacement tips sought
Thanks guys, prompt response indeed – are you competing?
New hinge expected in a couple of days so I’ll have a crack at it then.
Hopefully I’ll be able to report another success and maintain a full complement of fingers into the bargain!Vic
Re: Hoover H160E – superwash flashing – what does it indicat
Penguin45, thanks – looks like you were right on target.
Took another look today and ascertained that there were no blockages.
However when I removed the pump and hooked it up to test it at first it seemed to work OK but after several attempts I noticed that sometimes it would not start properly and just oscillated back and forth. Then I realised that if it stopped in one place it would run OK but in another not –
definately dodgy.Got a replacement and compared the winding resistance: Good one 210 ohms duff one 108 ohms… closer inspection looks like one othe the two windings may be short circuit.
I suspect it may have become damaged due to extended running whilst jammed by the junk I removed from the filter and housing.
Anyway thanks for the assistance – now just need to make some inroads into the backlog of washing piled up!
Re: Hoover H160E – superwash flashing – what does it indicat
Penguin45,
interesting – certainly when it stops there is still water in the drum so that fits the scenario. But if I turn off and select “drain” program
it seems to empty OK.Sounds like I need to re-check the drain side of things – I did remove some junk from the filter but maybe there is still some partial blockage
slowing the drain time. You’ve certainly given me something to double
check before I resort to calling in “the man”.Thanks – I’ll post an update once I’ve found some time to have another go
at it.Vic
Re: Hoover H160E – superwash flashing – what does it indicat
helo, thanks for the info – the flash sequence seems to be 3 flashes followed by a pause (5 or 6 seconds) then it repeats.
I have checked the yellow wires on the thermistor, they seem fine.
I even put a meter on the other end of them on the plug to the control
module – measures about 30k (cold) resistance drops as the thremistor
is warmed so I think this must be OK.I guess this leaves the control module itself. At about £60 I’m torn between replacing it on spec or calling out Hoover (machine has abour 6 months parts warranty still to go) but I expect that to be at least £90 callout. Hmm decisions decisions.
Thanks again anyway. If you can pin down the meaning of the 3 flashes I’d be interested anyway – just hate being beaten by an inanimate lump like these!
Vic
