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Re: candy alise 105 changing bearings

Penguin45 wrote:
6204ZR and 6203ZR bearings with rubber membrane are water resistant. They are not waterproof.

However I think RSH versions are, since the specs say that they have good high pressure water exclusion. But the pressure near the shaft is not much in a washing machine think.

Evren

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Martin wrote:

yurtesen wrote:
I cant find a new drum. It is impossible.

Could you give me the 8 digit ‘Product Code’ of your machine please? It will be on the back panel near the lid I think? Better still give me ALL the numbers shown there 💡

It is located in my other forum thread. But I really wont get a new drum 🙂 I was thinking of using sealed bearings. Which have the water seal integrated to bearing. Thus there is no need for the drum seal.

For example from SKF, 6203-2RSH and 6204-2RSH supposedly can even stop pressurized water from going into the bearing. Plus the prices are quite affordable. I can find brand new 6204-2RSH from eBay 20euro 10 pieces. I dont see what would be the difference if the water stops at the drum seal or the bearing. By the look of the machine here. I think it wont make any difference at all.

Check this out:
http://www.skf.com/portal/skf/home/prod … ink=1_1_4c

There is even better model of this bearing but I couldnt find it anywhere.
http://www.skf.com/portal/skf/home/prod … ink=1_1_4d

Come on, lets just be practical. I think you should give those a try next time you repair a washing machine 🙂 But if you think these wont work, why?

Thanks
Evren

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kwatt, I think there is a solution without changing the drum, but not something I can find here. I will look from eBay though.

Take a look at this.
http://www.skf.com/portal/skf/home/prod … link=4_5_3

I think, it looks promising 🙂

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I cant find a new drum. It is impossible.

The drum seal is quite smooth. At least when I touch it by finger. I will just polish it and close, but any advices of with what it can be done? the smoothest thing I could find was fine grained polishing sponge. If the machine fails again then I send the machine to recycling.

Evren

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It is impossible to change it. 🙂
I will polish it before closing in.
Any recommendations on that? :p

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By the way, I still didnt get where was I suppose to drill to get the bearings out. So, next to the bearing was the shaft (the inner race). Was I suppose to drill to the shaft? Wouldnt it destroy the shaft?

Anyhow, I am happy that those went off after all. I was cutting them for a while now but it was too late when I realized that higher rpm machine cuts like cutting butter.

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Martin wrote:

yurtesen wrote:
Drilling into the bearing race didnt work because bearing is really hard

Not drilling into the bearing????…..drilling NEXT to the bearing ❗

Martin

I meant bearing race. Was I wrong? Where was I suppose to drill actually? Wouldnt it be bad to drill next to the bearing race? am I mistaken or the ‘bearing’ is not the inner race and outer race with balls etc., the complete system?

Anyhow, its too late for drilling now. I got the bearings out. The pictures are below 🙂

Wonder tools :p
http://master.titol.fi/~yurtesen/CIMG0833.JPG

Inner bearing’s inner race’s place on shaft etc.
http://master.titol.fi/~yurtesen/CIMG0835.JPG

Inner bearing’s outer race’s place on backplate
http://master.titol.fi/~yurtesen/CIMG0838.JPG

Inner bearing’s inner race from outside and inside
http://master.titol.fi/~yurtesen/CIMG0843.JPG
http://master.titol.fi/~yurtesen/CIMG0845.JPG

Inner bearing’s outer race in million pieces…
http://master.titol.fi/~yurtesen/CIMG0846.JPG
http://master.titol.fi/~yurtesen/CIMG0848.JPG
http://master.titol.fi/~yurtesen/CIMG0849.JPG

Evren

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I tried almost everything which was suggested here. Really great suggestions but it is difficult to find the equipment to heat up the bearing race etc. very quicikly.

Drilling into the bearing race didnt work because bearing is really hard and I think I needed a very high rpm machine to start getting into the race.

So the cutting approach was the best. With a cutting tool of diameter 16-24cm I could cut the bearing quite nicely. Although it was difficult to see how deep I cut. So I had to cut it a while then hit it and see if it breaks or not then cut more and hit etc. But in the end it just went off 🙂

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kwatt wrote:Read back to what I originally posted. 😉

Seen this many, many times and as I said it’s nigh on impossible to remove it without terminally damaging the shaft. Trust me, we tried allsorts including having special drawers made up etc.

K.

Actually I got the inner bearing out by using an about 20cm diameter cutting tool which fit there nicely. When the bearing was almost cut, I put a screwdriver in between and hit it so that it will expand, and it got broken, then it was easy to remove it by simply turning around slowly and pulling up.

The outher race was difficult really. I was cutting it and cutting it and cutting it and it didnt go out. Until I decided to use a different kind of machine. The drill I had have 1500rpm and I used a 4500rpm machine and it finished the job in 20minutes 🙂 I believe I didnt destroy anything vital 🙂

I will soon post the pictures of the races etc. 🙂

Evren

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Re: candy alise 105 changing bearings

Here are the pictures of the seal:

http://master.titol.fi/~yurtesen/CIMG0824.JPG
http://master.titol.fi/~yurtesen/CIMG0825.JPG
http://master.titol.fi/~yurtesen/CIMG0827.JPG
http://master.titol.fi/~yurtesen/CIMG0828.JPG
http://master.titol.fi/~yurtesen/CIMG0829.JPG

And the cost is? $$$ 🙂

I have to come back to you about the diameter of the bearings tomorrow.
But one question, does the inner race of inside bearing come with the parts marked with the arrows in the following picture? I mean, is it one piece?
http://master.titol.fi/~yurtesen/CIMG0813ex.JPG
I am going to cut the inner race from the shaft very carefully, because I couldnt get it move at all by any means. So I was just wondering if I should cut those 2 little rings above and under it also?

PS. I might be able to find the bearings here but the seal is the real problem. If you could let me know about the prices of the bearings and the seal seperately I would be glad.

Thank you very much,
Evren

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Re: candy alise 105 changing bearings

Martin wrote:Rakas Evren,

Tämä tarjous on aito ja ystäväni suomessa ottaa sinuun yhteyttä jos sinä annat minulle osoitetietosi. Olen pahoillani ettet voi korjata vanhaa konettasi mutta voin toimittaa sinulle kivan uuden jos haluat?

Parhain terveisin
Martin

Translation:
Dear Evren,
This offer is genuine and my friend in Finland will contact you if you give me your address. I am sorry that you cant fix your old machine but I can deliver you a nice new one if you like?
Best regards
Martin

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Re: candy alise 105 changing bearings

Actually, it rather sounded like silicon was boiling in there 🙂 and some little smoke came. Also the back plate still seem to be fitting nicely. We have opened it really carefully it took like 2-3 hours to open. I would be surprised if it was destroyed in the process. But as I mentioned, between the back plate and the inner one, there comes no water. The pipes etc. are directly connected to inner plate or under the drum. The inner plate is impossible to open without a can opener really(or blowtorch). I can send you pictures if you would like?, you can probably make a really nice photo album 🙂 Too bad we didnt photo documented the opening of the drum etc.

Although I have already sent a PM to Martin. I still have the machine open in pieces. If the parts are not so expensive, why not give it a try? OK it might take many hours of work and there is a very high possibility that the result will be a failure. But still, I have done all the hard work of opening the back plate etc. now I just need few cheap parts and I can close it up and if it leaks etc. then it leaks, so I can send the machine to recycling. After all, before this, I fixed the leaking water extraction pump and even went through the speed control electronics etc. of the machine, not to mention the famous timer 🙂

The thing is that I dont like giving up so easily on anything. I have to see with my eyes that the machine doesnt work after I replace the bearings and the seal and close. For the fun of it, it is worth taking the risk really.

Plus, my friend here wants to make a flower pot from the drum if I fail 🙄

Thanks for everybody’s replies 🙂 It has been an fabulous journey(into the washing machine) so far…
Evren…

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Re: candy alise 105 changing bearings

Martin,
I will return back to you in a while. I must discuss this with my friend here. Although I wanted to get this machine operational again, you have an offer which is difficult to refuse.
Thanks,
Evren

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Re: candy alise 105 changing bearings

Martin wrote:
No conditions are attached (except that when you get your new machine you will at least tell the sceptics here on UK Whitegoods of what I did for you 😀 )

Yes, I know about PM 🙂 but I still cant believe that somebody would buy a washing machine to me out the blue. There must be another catch? So you say that you will pay for a brand new machine so that I will leave the forum alone? 😆 I didnt think I was disturbing the forum this much 😯

I am sure you understand me being a little bit skeptical. So, you will pay for the machine also or only buy it? 🙂 There must be some word trick here really.

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Re: candy alise 105 changing bearings

kwatt wrote:
We won’t split a timer apart because it takes so much time. Now in our game time = money like most other businesses all over the world, so it’s actually cheaper to replace the component as opposed to repairing it. When you break it down yourself and you’re not being charged for the time to do that then it’s fair enough, but would you want to be paying someone to do that for you?

Actually, it was not so easy to see the problem in timer and fix it. See, it took many hours for me to figure out what to do with it because I never opened any kind of timer before. IF I would need to open the timer again and fix, it wouldnt take more than 1-2 hours at most. Considering a new timer costs about 200euro and it is almost impossible to obtain. If I was fixing timers for washing machines I think people would want to get it fixed instead of paying 800euro for a new washer/dryer. Although I do not know how long my fix would last. So far the timer was working fine for about 50 or more wash cycles

kwatt wrote:
On the drum…
It is goosed but if you’re absolutely determined Dave will be able to get you the bits but I really do advise against it.

I am quite determined. But how much would they cost total including shipment to an UK address(to my friend’s)?

kwatt wrote:
You can get the shell off, but you’ll need a damn good set of drawers to do it, apply heat and lots of it and attempt to draw the shell off. If you try to cut it you’ll do the shaft in. Trust me, we tried many, many times to solve this problem to save ordering up expensive drums as it was a common fault because people ignored the noise until it got so bad the bearings collapsed or simply didn’t realise that it was happening as it is a gradual failure.

I doubt it will come off by pulling it out. It seems to be quite tight in there. But I have time and patience. I can cut it off very slowly and precisely. Plus its good exercise 🙂

kwatt wrote:
For that to happen and that shell to be there the bearing have failed, full stop, end of story, absolutely no doubt whatsoever! The only way that would happen is from water ingress, which means detergent was in there and, you see that black gunk there, that’s detergent. When you see the grease it would have been black, it should have been an opaque golden colour as they are when new.

Yes, the grease was black. But I have seen same coloured grease before. Not all are golden coloured I guess. Anyhow, the front bearing was not collapsed. It was merely making some sounds. The back bearing was the one which was collapsed.

kwatt wrote:
The other thing is, was the backplate fixed with silicone to the tank? If so how did you get it off?

It was fixed with some big screws, but it didnt get open first because there was some sticky white thing(silicon?). I heated it up with heat gun and forced it open very carefully without denting any metal parts. I havent seen such silicon before but it cant be so difficult to obtain here. I can look for it. The worst case scenario might be that I use the silicon I have which can handle up to 200degrees celsius but not sticky(in my opinion). The screws around the back plate was quite many so I could guess that they will hold it easily and quite tight there. Plus water does not go to the back plate. There is the inner plate which would require a can opener to get it off. I think it will be quite easy to close it up compared to opening.

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