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Big shout out to Dave (and anyone else claiming proprietary rights over the intellectual property contained in this thread).
I don’t care who was responsible for tracking down the problem, fixing it and making it available. Fact is, it worked for me and I’m very grateful. Thank you!
Only thing I’d add is I wasn’t sure which board needed to be taken out and poked around with. I assumed it was the one next to the power cable inlet, lower left rear looking at the back: it’s not, it’s actually the one on the right held onto the back panel by two screws and a plastic retaining probe thingy. Take that out (it’s also stuck to the body with an adhesive pad), loosen the cable retainers along the lower rear body panel and then there’s a clip-and-slide panel to remove to gain access to the box. After that it’s just a case of gingerly loosening the cable connector clips (careful, the clips are easily broken as I found), removing the cables themselves, then carefully releasing the three plastic anchor clips to get the PCB out. After that, do what you need with D7.
I checked prices on Farnell: while the 100V/2A Schottkys are only about 17p there, I couldn’t order fewer than 20 and with postage that pushed the price up to over £12 … I found a pack of 5 for around £3.50 on Amazon. £3.50 to fix a waching machine? I’d say it’s a bargain even at that massive price.
My machine is the model named in the thread title, it’s only 18 months old and because it’s at a second property has only been used maybe a dozen times in that short life. Needless to say I won’t buy Beko again, but I’m very, very grateful that I hopefully won’t now have to replace this one until after a reasonable service life.
Dave: thanks again! (Did I say how grateful I am?!)
Best,
Keith
if its in a second property its likley its not been turned off at the plug when not in use. That mean that diode has been in use 24/7 even though you have not been there. It worth turning off modern appliances at the plug when not in use
dont let this put you off Beko as there a lot worse machines out thereDave
Thank you, diagnosis spot on D7 it was.
I will just observe that Radio Spares (RS) do the same diodes slightly cheaper you get 20 for less.
Just wondering the if this fault is appearing across many different devices if its a batch fault with the diodes or if the UK mains supply has suddenly got worse, e.g. large voltage switching spikes or similar.
Ron
more likely the manufacturers are saving fractions of a penny by fitting components that are just able to do the job
Dave
My First post!
Many thanks to all in this thread especially Dave for some great advice.
I have a Beko Washer/Dryer WDR7543121S and there is no power to it at all. Checked fuse and supply etc.
I changed D7 diode (using a STMicro Electronics Schottky Rectifier, 100V, 2A, DO-204AL STPS2H100) and still no joy.
I have just been check D6 diode and I get a reading both ways! What is strange is that the multimeter, when connecting to the diode the wrong way round, as it were, sort of outputs a countdown!!! So perhaps this is the cause???
Would anyone know the spec of D6 so that I can order a replacement please?
Many thanks in advance.
if the reading counts down you are likley charging a capacitor
the ony way of testing it properly is to unsolder one leg and test off the board
Dave
Hi Dave,
Many thanks for the update.
I desoldered one leg and then tested and it was all OK. So back to square one!
Checked the other diodes and all seems fine. Underneath of the PCB seems fine with no obvious burns / damage etc.
I’m guessing it could be any component on the PCB?
Just for background, the machine had finished it cycle but we could not turn the machine off via the on/off button. Unplugged it and left it a few minuets, plugged back in but would not turn on.
Not sure of next step now? A reconditioned PCB?
Thanks again Dave.
A question please: –
Is the PCB the only component that would cause this issue? Could there be a Capacitor or Suppressor that could have blown?
The reason I ask is because I have found a brand new PCB on espares: –
https://www.espares.co.uk/product/es1777863/washer-dryer-main-pcb
This is £73.98 inc. next day delivery.
Would this definitely solve the problem?
Many thanks in advance for any kind help with this issue
right there is a green resistor fairly big one, further down the board. Should be under 100 ohms, am expecting 50 or so
check that
Dave
Hi again Dave,
Many thanks for the really fast responses.
Resistor R98 this is giving me a reading of 98.6!
Thanks again Dave
well its get more difficult from here and depends on your skill level
it could be various things. we have been working on the board power supply and that is still suspect but dont forget it could also be the display board or the cable between the 2 boards
if it was me i would start to check voltages but you have to be very careful with over 300v DC floating about on some of the caps . we are looking for the 12v or so voltage to power the board. the reading we get will be crucial to what you do then
my next guess for a problem would be the power supply chip and after that its which board do we change
the dioide is a nice easy fix, after that it gets harder
Dave
Hi Dave,
Once again many thanks for your kind help and patience.
TBH I may be at the top end of my skill level right now!
Could you point me in the right direction of where I could find the 12v on the PCB?
That was my worry about changing that PCB as it could be somewhere else as you say.
I appreciate that it is very difficult to diagnose this issue at such a distance
I wish it had of been D7!!!
Next to D7 there are 3 electrolytic capacitors you can see if you get a voltage across any or all of them
beware of the 2 bigger ones lower down the board as there are 300vDave
Morning Dave,
As always, many thanks for the update.
Will give that a go and see how I get on!
Will report back asap
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