BEKO WDR7543121W Sudden No Power

[Muttontop]

Thanks Dave, the problem I’ve got is that my Daughter lives in London (Ealing) and I live near Worcester so it’s not so simple to visit and diagnose and then obtain the part as most electronic shops are now on line only (Maplins, etc), so even if it is only the diode then that in itself would pose a problem, that’s why I asked if they were all the same so that I could order on line before I went. If it is a main board failure that would definetly require replacement and another visit once it arrives. I don’t suppose you know of anyone reliable (and preferably reasonably priced!!!) in the area that my Daughter could contact to help her diagnose the problem? Thanks for your help.
Steve

[electrofix]

being in Liverpool my knowledge London engineers is not good as is the geography

sugeest you look here

https://www.ukwhitegoods.co.uk/search/find-an-appliance-engineer

to see if any of our members cover your area

Dave

[Muttontop]

Thanks Dave, are all the people listed using this link members of this forum? If so would they be aware of this potential diode issue or should my daughter mention it to them? Don’t want them to think she is interfering. She’s gone with a company called Astrid Technologies which came top of the list, any thoughts on them? They’ve quoted her £75 to diagnose the problem and then the cost of any parts, I think this sounds reasonable for London.

[electrofix]

dont know them but he is a member of our trade association

https://www.whitegoodstradeassociation.org/

Dave

[bob12241]

Muttontop wrote:Thanks Dave, the problem I’ve got is that my Daughter lives in London (Ealing) and I live near Worcester so it’s not so simple to visit and diagnose and then obtain the part as most electronic shops are now on line only (Maplins, etc), so even if it is only the diode then that in itself would pose a problem, that’s why I asked if they were all the same so that I could order on line before I went. If it is a main board failure that would definetly require replacement and another visit once it arrives. I don’t suppose you know of anyone reliable (and preferably reasonably priced!!!) in the area that my Daughter could contact to help her diagnose the problem? Thanks for your help.
Steve

Hi, just a bit of info, most engineers do not work to component level. Therefore they normally just change the board. Assuming he wont be carrying a spare you might find a total bill of £75 first visit £75 for the board (at last look) and a further £75 for the second visit. When you weigh the cost of this against a diode costing less than £3 (from ebay) I know which way I would rather go. The D7 diode is the same for all models mentioned here, do not assume it is the same for all models as I cannot vouch for that. If your daughter knows someone with diy expertise they could access the board and photograph it for your benefit, or even do the job. Detailed instructions are available on a similar posting on another website, I won’t mention that here. Personally I would chance the £3 and then go to your daughters.

[Muttontop]

Thanks Dave, just had an email from my daughter, the engineer came out and then sent her the following report:
Report:
The washer dryer requires a control module and main control module before further tests to the appliance can be done.
Please note that these parts are special order. Once these parts have been fitted, they can’t be returned and we will still need to charge for the parts even if the appliance can’t be repaired. Unfortunately, due to the cost and the risk involved we would suggest replacing this appliance.
Quote to repair:
Main Board @ £186.98 plus VAT.
Control Board @ £138.41 plus VAT. Call Out & Repair @ £75.00 plus VAT

Does this seem good practice in your opinion? The fact that they are saying they need to replace two boards (to be charged to her no matter what the outcome) BEFORE they can carry out further tests doesn’/t seem right. Any thoughts, doesn’t seem right that they are touting replacement machines as well, this one is only just over two years old? Looks like I might have to get a diode and risk it!!!

[Muttontop]

Dave, Is it possible tp PM me with the website address?

[Muttontop]

Hi Dave, my Daughter has just told me that the engineer was there for at the most 10 minutes but his worksheet (they provided a PDF of this) states 5 hours. Something about this is not right.

[electrofix]

if it were not for the door lock clicking i would say it might be the diode. the fact there is enough life in the board to operate the door lock would steer me away from the diode
I tend to agree with the engineer that the board may be faulty and he is quoting for the other board because there is no way to be certain its not faulty too

sad though it is it may be time to just replace it

without taking the board out you wont know if its something like a slug crawled onto it, something we see quite a lot

Dave

[Muttontop]

Right, found a thread on how to remove the board but it is for a different model, the board is on the other side and can be removed fairly easily with only one bound cable coming in so it makes it easy to remove and access (see attached photo). On my model there appears to be numerous individual cables going to the board (a lot going into the rear of the board with no apparent plug or means of disconnecting them and clamped to the side of the machine with no free play), mains fed into a large capacitor which seems to be part of the board that needs to be removed and the discharge pipe is also attached to the top of the board casing adding to the difficulty to remove the board from the machine. Any one any ideas of how to tackle/remove this board. Any help would be gratefully received.
Thanks

[bob12241]

The board you mention, may be the inverter module for the drive motor, this is located on the left hand side (when viewed from rear) with multiple wires going in and going out to the motor. It is also near the large capacitors you mention (do not touch unless unplugged for 24hrs). This is not the board, it is on the opposite side inside a plastic enclosure, which is screwed to the rear.. The mention also of the door lock clicking is not typical of the diode D7 failing, although on mine I did have very faint lights illuminating on the front panel. The engineers quote is dear for the boards (last time I checked about 15 months ago) , and it is possible for 1 board to fail and take out the other board, he could also be covering all possibilities. Engineer quotes 5 hours as there is a minimum time he can book and the £75 you pay is for that length of time, most are 3 hours though.
Regards Rob

Ps just did price check, main pcb £67.11 display pcb £70.19 vat inclusive, plus postage

[Muttontop]

Thanks Bob, There is nothing on the other side near the motor, it is just the side panel of the machine. From what I could see of the board this looks like the right one and it is one the engineer my daughter contacted photographed. I’ve attached the picture that he took.

[Muttontop]

She’s now contacted Beko to arrange for an engineer to have a look at it. I’ll keep you posted.

[Muttontop]

Beko engineer came out Friday, within half an hour he had changed the main board and the machine was working again. OK she’s had to take a 12 month cover plan but this is still a lot cheaper than anything the first company proposed. Just wish I knew how to remove the board, I could have done it for the price (approx £70) of a new board, just couldn’t see how to remove it. Not as simple as some of the other machines mentioned on here!!!! Anyway, all’s well that ends well!

[Rothatron]

Thanks to this thread I’ve just successfully carried out a repair on my Beko WDR7543121W Washer Dryer.

Same story as others on here, washer just completely dead one day and wouldn’t turn on. I carried out the usual checks to rule out issues with the power getting to the machine (fuse, plug, etc) but no luck. We got ours just over 3 years ago and it feels far too new to be giving up on us already – fortunately a quick google search brought up this thread.

I’m reasonably handy and not really intimidated by this kind of job but I’d encourage anyone who backs them-self to take this on as it was much simpler than I thought it would be. Well worth the investment of a couple of hours of time plus less than £15 for parts. (If you don’t have the tools, a soldering iron, solder and multimeter is about £25 from Screwfix)

A quick guide for reference to others finding this thread so everything is in the same place:
I unplugged the machine then removed the back panel and found the main power board in a black plastic casing tucked in the bottom right corner as you look in through the back access panel.

It’s held in by just two screws but a bit fiddly to take out (undoing the white cable management clips in the machine casing helps with slack on the wiring loom). Once it’s out it’s just a simple task of undoing the casing and removing all the wire blocks on the board – ensuring to get lots of photos to refer back to when putting it back together. Obviously be careful handling the board – especially the capacitors as there are a few of those around the D7 diode.

There’s plenty of videos on YouTube to show how to test diodes so following one of those confirmed it was the same issue with the D7 diode as others have experienced.

I ordered replacements from Farnell https://uk.farnell.com/stmicroelectronics/stps2h100/schottky-rectifier-100v-2a-do/dp/2849663?st=STMICROELECTRONICS{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d}20{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d}20STPS2H100 – they sell them in packs of 5 so have a few spares but the £9.95 handling fee was slightly annoying! A small price to pay though compared to the cost of getting an engineer out.

Delivery was fast and it’s a fairly simple job to unsolder the old diode and replace with a new one (double then triple check the polarity!). I performed the diode test to validate the replacement was still ok after being fitted and did some continuity checks on the pins to nearby components to confirm everything was properly soldered.

I reassembled everything referring back to the ‘before’ photos and fitted it back into the machine, plugged it in and we’re back in business.

Many thanks to everyone in this thread for their knowledge and help – you’ve saved me a chunk of money and hassle dealing with Beko Support.

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