meggers

[garn]

Re: meggers

Martin said. I’m afraid to say the answer to that for the most part is yes they do have to be removed and Disconnected.

Just Imagine you Just had A Call From A Customer my Machine is Making A Loud Noise Only On The Spin.

Engineer asks Whats The Make And Model

customer Says hotpoint wm

Engineer Give A Provisional Price Over The Phone And The Customer Has Accepted And Booked The Call.

Engineer On The way Thinking This Is A Good One Today££££ 🙂

Engineer Arrives On Site Goes To Check The Bearing And Noticed At This Point The Appliance Is Hard Wired.
He Thinks That’s OK its Only The Bearing I Have Check And The On and Off Switch is Off.
So he bends Down to Check Spins The Drum he gets A wwwwwwrrrrr Noise And Then He Goes To Attempt The Six and 12 o’clock Movement On The Drum.

On Checking The Up And down Movement he Gets A Mild Tingling On his Fingertips :rolls:
He Ignores That Or Dosent Know What it Is. he Carries On And pres is The Drum Down as he is Checking

To Is Astonishment he Has to Turn Round To See Whether The Customer Is Hitting his Bicep With A Napping hammer 😯

❓ Whats Wrong What hasent He Done before HE started.

Garn.

[garn]

Re: meggers

❓ as far As I Know That’s Its Against The Law To Work in Someones home Premises to Carry Out Work on Someones House Sockets or Change someones Light Socket.
Unless You Are A Qualified Electrician With A 17Th Edition Certificate.

❓ so wear Do We Stand When You Disconnect A Hard Wired Appliance
from The Wall.

❓ Are We braking The law Regs by doing That

[Martin]

Re: meggers

garn wrote: ❓ so wear Do We Stand When You Disconnect A Hard Wired Appliance
from The Wall.

❓ Are We braking The law Regs by doing That

No Garn you’re not “breaking the law” it has to be done in the normal pursuance of the job as a matter of course. Carry on!

[Alex]

Re: meggers

Even if hard wired, there must be a double pole isolation switch within 2 metres of the appliance, and visible. If not cite H&S fill out a disclaimer or electrical safety sheet & walk away. No matter what & how, nothing is impossible, only difficult.

Earth loop test can be done from an adjacent socket preferrably on the same ring main, and a continuity of earth reading taken with the loop tester flying lead. Naturally, once the engineer gains access to the working of the appliance he needs to double check is safely isolated.

Alex

[garn]

Re: meggers

Alex Said Earth loop test can be done from an adjacent socket preferrably on the same ring main,

if I m correct if There Are Other Appliances On The Same Ring the best Way Is to isolate The Appliance That your Working On loop test from Another Socket Record Thre Reading. Then re test the loop With the Appliance On.

garn

[leavemetogetonwithit]

Re: meggers

Hmm. I see why you fellas charge so much extra for built in now. Suppose I’ll have to start doing the same.
Bit of a palaver disconnecting and reconnecting hard wired stuff. Creates the potential for poor connections to be made, I see why garn says it’s necessary to retest after re-connection.
So what’s wrong with just switching off the switch and/or taking out the fuse/s for the earth continuity and insulation tests? (Of course checking with voltmeter to see that switch is effective).
Mike.

[adv]

Re: meggers

mmm thats a was hinking 😆

[Martin]

Re: meggers

Just an up-date to let you know guys that I’ve sent out more than 50 copies of my Megger Test.pdf file to those who have emailed their request for a copy.

Also no less than 12 members with HOTMAIL accounts have requested a copy (plus 2 Blueyonder accounts) that have bounced back.

Not one Hotmail has succeeded so far. Several reasons are either your INBOX IS FULL, the address unknown (though I always copy and paste or mouse click the address you have given me and the odd one or two have simply ‘timed out’ whatever that means?

So again I ask that if your request hasn’t been fulfilled within 24 hours then chances are one or all of the above may be the reason. Try again or give me another email address PLEASE!🙂

Martin

[Specialist01269]

Re: meggers

Hi guys: As far as i’m aware there’s no legal requirement for you to be 17th edition certified for doing any work such as removing a Spur front or Double pole switch. As for actually changing a Socket front or Light switch etc, this is still in the realms of DIY repair & does not come under Part P either. Unless said fitting is situated in a restricted area such as a Bathroom or Kitchen, if you just remove the front plate then you are not breaching any rules as you are not replacing a fitting.

Andy

[lee8]

Re: meggers

Part P only applies to new anything.

If your removing for access or replacing a socket for a socket its not an issue.

Having said that HSE will be unhappy if your not competent, as Engineers you should have formal qualifications, if not your in the brown stuff.

DIY is differen,t as your not charging and working in your own premises, once you leave that you have to be competent and provide evidence of your competency.

[mbdas]

Re: meggers

hi 🙂
What about replacing appliances ie built in d/w into fixed wiring or doulbe oven ❓

[Martin]

Re: meggers

mbdas wrote:hi 🙂
What about replacing appliances ie built in d/w into fixed wiring or doulbe oven ❓

I feel the need to knock up another pdf file on hard wired issues maybe? 😈

Look guys, let me answer mbdas first……Replace your d/w and oven and reconnect to a fixed point behind the machine (or wherever it connects) there’s no issue there OK? Do safety check the supply though before and after installing. Go ahead, no worries!:D

Just to clarify on fixed/hard wired terminal/cooker points or whatever you wish to call them. All appliances connected to the mains in this way can be accessed by you, tested/disconnected/reconnected/tested. Thats OK and you are well within your rights to do that. Not breaking any laws either..OK?

That applies ONLY to existing installations and if a new supply line has to be installed in order the appliance be connected then and only then do you need to contact a local ‘Part P’ approved electrician to put that supply in for you. Only he (or she) can do that in your customers premises for you. If you attempt the work yourself you could well be accountable for your actions unless you too are Part P registered with your local authority.

🙂

[Specialist01269]

Re: meggers

Hi All: Sorry I boobed earlier regarding Part P, I was trying to do 4 things at once & screwed up big time. 😳 Martin is totally correct Part P does not apply to replacement of existing fittings even in a Kitchen.

Andy 😕

[leavemetogetonwithit]

Re: meggers

Martin wrote:I feel the need to knock up another pdf file on hard wired issues maybe? 😈

Put my name down for the first edition please. I’m a bit confused by all these replies, it would be good to have it clear and simple. 😀
Mike.

[Martin]

Re: meggers

leavemetogetonwithit wrote:Put my name down for the first edition please. I’m a bit confused by all these replies, it would be good to have it clear and simple. 😀

Well I must say I’ve been encouraged to seriously think about that due to the enormous response to my Megger Test has brought. It’s good to know that there are many out there willing to learn more and keen enough to give it a go.

This all came about because I was surprised to learn that many out there don’t own or use an insulation tester or perhaps didn’t realise what they were for? Now it seems a good few don’t realise hard wired appliances have to be disconnected in order they be safety checked (before/during/after a repair?

By that same token I dread to think how many none GSR qualified field service engineers still insist on fixing dual fuel appliances and don’t then carry out an insulation test on the appliance. Happy in the mistaken knowledge that “as long as you don’t break into the gas line!”……yeah right mate. :rolls:

[Author]

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