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August 17, 2008 at 9:43 pm #142037
panda123
ParticipantRe: Whirlpool American Fridge Freezer broken down – help!
Can someone help me here 😥 i have a whirlpool S20DFSS10 18.9CF without the ice maker. it had the faults listed previously i.e. freezer not working followed by the fridge. freezer temperature flashing –. i have noticed people refering to the rating plate for other relevant numbers. where is this plate. there is nothing on the back, front, top or sides of the freezer??????? i have taken the back panel off, no plate hiding in there either. the serial number on the plastic casing for the PCB is CU600000 461950234812 manufactur date 08/2003. the layout for the capacitors is different on this PCB from the prevoius descriptions. from what i can tell there are 6 in total. 3 small (.22/10 250v) & 3 large (2 at .68/10 250V 1.70MKP. C6 & C16 & 1 at 1.2/10 250V 1.70MKP C1) white round ones, but there may also be 4 others. rectangular & grey in colour. C14, C26, C27, C28.
can anyone advise me as to which capacitors i need to change, or how much a replacement board would cost & i’m assuming as there is no ice making on this freezer there is only one PCB????? thanksAugust 28, 2008 at 12:33 am #142038little_wing
ParticipantJust in case anyone is still watching this thread – how do I know if I need one or both boards? S25BRSS31 Model #858616615010, Serial #110251000631.
Got the — on the freezer temp display plus warning and the compressor and fans didn’t seem to be kicking in at all, freezer completely defrosted. Replaced the compressor 0.22uF cap on the rear PCB (as per instructions on page 2 of this thread), compressor and fans now sound like they’re kicking in (I can see the fans spinning at least), but the freezer and fridge aren’t getting cold at all. Took the internal cover off in the freezer section – no ice build up so I think I need a new rear PCB unless it’s something more terminal.
Should I go for a new rear PCB (the front one has been changed in around 2005, panel doesn’t flicker although sometimes get the spurting water thing) or should I just take out a 12 month warranty and let them deal with it?
Any help much appreciated – got 3 kids under 4 years old and being without a fridge/freezer is an absolute nightmare.
September 4, 2008 at 9:31 pm #142039Bobbuild
ParticipantRe: Whirlpool American Fridge Freezer broken down – help!
I had an AFG 7080 with the dreaded clicking relay. Refrigeration engineer had diagnosed kaput circuit board at cost of £115 +fitting. After reading through this post I ordered a new 1000uF 16V capacitor from Maplins and with my basic electronics skills soldered it in place…. bingo, works like new and for a total cost of £3.48. Thank you one and all, I will certainly be back to UK Whitegoods next time I have any queiries!
September 5, 2008 at 9:52 pm #142040Fieldsy
ParticipantRe: Whirlpool American Fridge Freezer broken down – help!
Hi to everyone. I do hope this particular thread is still being viewed. I have read the thread over and over again about 3 times and hoping I can solve my problem. Firstly my numbers are;
Model Number FRSS36AF25/3
8586 168 15020
11 0637 013768
Ok, I don’t have any ice or water issues, and no clicking relays. Freezer is losing temperature, flashing triangle with — in display and audio buzzer. I have defrosted, taking internal back panel off and de-frosted the exchanger? (radiator thingy at back…lol), and all was fine for a few days then back to the buzzer, — and falshing display again. I don’t mind having a crack at changing capacitors as I have solder and iron.
When doors are closed, it sounds asthough fan is on constant, then when doors on either freezer or fridge are opened it stops immediately and then restarts when the doors are shut again.
Firstly, do I need one board or two.
Secondly, how and where do I find these boards? . Is it a case of removing the whole rear back panel.
Thirdly, what caps will I need. I read the thread on page two, and initially I require 4?, is that correct?. for my particular problem. I’m willing to give it ago, and if I mess up it will have to be a new board I suspect. So pleased to have found this site, to at least have a stab at fixing it.
I can’t even find a board to match my model number in shop@ ??
Thanks for any advice, it will be very much appreciated.
regards
Fieldsy.
September 6, 2008 at 1:31 pm #142041cockney steve
Participantjust to say, that if your model fits the thread, you’ll find full details in the 14 pages!
NOTE! usually, it’s electrolytic capacitors which go “bad” they are usually cylindrical with a rubber or plastic “lid”sealed in one end, with both wires coming out through the seal…typically, one side of the case will have a stripe on it,indicating thepolarity, which MUST be observed.most faults here ,are concerning the SOLID DIELECTRIC CAP’S
(typically Mylar or polyester) they can be cylindrical (sausage) wire from each end, oblong “cushion” or box, disc.
fit any way round….they’re bobbins money, probably less than a tenner to change THE LOT. Otherwise, if it’s beyond your abilities, use the “find an engineer” function on this page…..at least you’ll get an honest and competent repairer!
September 6, 2008 at 3:12 pm #142042Fieldsy
ParticipantRe: Whirlpool American Fridge Freezer broken down – help!
thanks for the feedback, I’ve got the board out and its obviously the new type as it has the “modern” blue caps in a line of four. Going to order them from rsww, as maplin were next to useless. Had one that fitted the bill, but 37.5 lead pitch, miles to big. I’ve defrosted again, to get it going for a while, then when caps arrive I’ll change ’em. If this doesn’t cure the ” not getting cold problem” in the freezer, is it likely to be a new board (rear). Does the front board determine any of the cooling of the freezer or does it only control the front panel? i.e ice and water section.
thanks againFieldsy.
September 6, 2008 at 8:32 pm #142043Fieldsy
ParticipantRe: Whirlpool American Fridge Freezer broken down – help!
Well, before the caps arrive, I decided to do the test as recommended in the first couple of pages, that is, swop over the two outer caps. I defrosted the freezer AGAIN !! and so far the compressor is running ok and I’m back up to -18. I’ve emptied the ice container, so normally it should refill on its own, but it isn’t, so I’m assuming the faulty cap I’ve now swopped over from the compressor side is causing the ice not to be made. Although this isn’t ideal, its good news because it informs me the cap was faulty. I’m now eagerly awaiting the caps, and gonna change the whole bloody lot. Not going to take any chances.
Will keep updated as its early days and the initial defrost could be what has helped as the exchanger was full of frost/ice again.
Fieldsy
September 7, 2008 at 8:05 pm #142044ricointheuk
ParticipantRe: Whirlpool American Fridge Freezer broken down
kanguru007 wrote:Hi. Thank you all for your help.
Yes, the capacitors are bad! I wonder where Whirlpool manages to get capacitors of this kind of ‘quality’, I wouldn’t be able to source them if I had to.
I replaced all eight on the back board and my fridge is working like new again.
Later I will replace the ones on the front board, I have to buy them beforehand.
Everyone with problems should replace all capacitors without a second thought. The new capacitors will most likely never fail and the fridge will be better than new.
If you can’t do yourself just take the board to an electronics/tv repair shop. They must do it as you wait because food inside the fridge will start melting in a couple of hours melting. Put the temperatures in the lowest settings one day before you remove the board.Here’s a list of all the capacitors in my boards:
back board (changing these fixed my problems):
plastic mains caps: 250V/275V RMS (AC) or higher if they fit:
4x 220nF
3x 100nF
1x 330nF
1x 1000nFelectrolitic (don’t reverse polarity)
6.8V or higher:
1x 1000uFfront board (these are also bad but I haven’t replace them yet):
plastic mains caps: 250V, 275V RMS (AC) or higher if they fit:
3x 470nF
1x 680nF
1x 330nF
4x 3uFelectrolitic (don’t reverse polarity)
6.8V or higher:
1x 1000uF
Any chance of giving the RS numbers for these, please 🙂September 7, 2008 at 9:24 pm #142045cockney steve
ParticipantRe: Whirlpool American Fridge Freezer broken down – help!
full online catalogue……be aware that this is a “trade” supplier, as such you will find there are minimum pack-quantities applicable,
RS depots DO have trade-counters,if you take the trouble to look up the part-numbers they will oblige with a cash “courtesy sale” without the necessity to open a trade account.
also to be noted…”plastic” can be of several different qualities, as long as the operating voltage is at least that specified (can be higher,but then size may become an issue) the VALUE MUST BE CORRECT (microfarads/pf/nf)
Quality/price is probably only important to manufacturers where large quantities are involved.
September 8, 2008 at 12:01 pm #142046ricointheuk
ParticipantRe: Whirlpool American Fridge Freezer broken down – help!
cockney steve wrote:http://rswww.com
full online catalogue……be aware that this is a “trade” supplier, as such you will find there are minimum pack-quantities applicable,
RS depots DO have trade-counters,if you take the trouble to look up the part-numbers they will oblige with a cash “courtesy sale” without the necessity to open a trade account.
also to be noted…”plastic” can be of several different qualities, as long as the operating voltage is at least that specified (can be higher,but then size may become an issue) the VALUE MUST BE CORRECT (microfarads/pf/nf)
Quality/price is probably only important to manufacturers where large quantities are involved.
Hi Steve and thanks for the reply.
I have an ac with RS. I don’t have a RS counter near me.
As you have pointed out it is important to get the correct values for the farads. I have read some literature on capacitors in order to help me understand, which one to order. I am not confident that I have understood completely as there are different ways of writing the same farad values. size / pitch / voltage I’m fine with. I was hoping if someone was au fait with capacitors or had already ordered them, that they may have or easily get the RS codes for me, therefore simplifying the whole process for me.
I have picked the ones I believe are correct on RS and will cross reference with any help received.
As ever, if someone is kind enough to help with the codes, I obviously take the advice at my own risk etc.
Thanks
RichardSeptember 8, 2008 at 4:52 pm #142047Fieldsy
ParticipantRe: Whirlpool American Fridge Freezer broken down – help!
Hi, from a previous post, these are the ones I’ve ordered for the 4 main caps @220nf
http://uk.rs-online.com/web/search/sear … &x=21&y=10
Part number 190-8551
September 8, 2008 at 10:53 pm #142048ricointheuk
ParticipantRe: Whirlpool American Fridge Freezer broken down – help!
Fieldsy wrote:Hi, from a previous post, these are the ones I’ve ordered for the 4 main caps @220nf
http://uk.rs-online.com/web/search/sear … &x=21&y=10
Part number 190-8551
Hi Fieldsy 🙂 thank you for the reply.
This corresponds with what I have picked at RS. I will get them ordered and see how I get on.
Thanks
RichardSeptember 9, 2008 at 8:21 am #142049cjboycie
ParticipantRe: Whirlpool American Fridge Freezer broken down – help!
Can someone just confirm that these caps look correct before i change them.
http://uk.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=getProduct&R=190-8551 For C5, C6, C7 & C8
then
http://uk.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=getProduct&R=190-8539 For C26, C27 & C28
Many thanks for your help
ChrisSeptember 9, 2008 at 2:12 pm #142050ricointheuk
ParticipantRe: Whirlpool American Fridge Freezer broken down – help!
Ok soldering complete and I’m pleased to say that it appears to have worked. 🙂
I changed the four capacitors in a row and reassembled(rear board). Nothing seemed to happen for a while apart from releasing lots of water into the evaporator tray. The — instead of -18 had corrected itself back to -18. Then I heard some ice drop 🙂 I have missed the ice. Next I put a thermometer into the fridge to see if the temp was reducing down to 4c It was! Super!
Then the clicking started again 🙁 everything appeared to still be working but it was back to repeated clicks for about 20secs every 5 mins. It was doing this for a year prior to the ice maker dying and then shortly followed by the fridge and freezer.
I had also ordered the new C1 capacitor and the extra capacitor that Ozzy1 had discussed on page 8 of this topic. So I soldered these in also. Turned it all back on and same process of nothing appearing to happen apart from dumping water into the evaporator tray again.
Went out to lunch……..
Came back and fridge / freezer temps at correct levels and currently no clicking 🙂 fingers crossed that’s it 🙂
Thanks to all that have helped and good luck to future people visiting this topic. 🙂
Thanks
RichardSeptember 10, 2008 at 2:25 pm #142051Fieldsy
ParticipantRe: Whirlpool American Fridge Freezer broken down – help!
Great to hear you got your sorted Rico. How did you manage to get all 4 caps in place, mine were too wide and wouldn’t fit, so only changed outer ones. The ordered caps, were wider than the “old blue ones” I was replacing. Anyway switched back on, and no — and no warning triangle. Freezer went straight to -18, as it only took me about 15-20mins to solder caps in. Water and ice both working fine. Will give it a couple of days to see how things work out.
BIG THANKS!!!!! to everyone who has supplied info on this subject, hopfully this has saved me a major repair bill.
Would you fecking believe it now the tumble dryers packed in……!!!! already ordered parts 😉 ……………..and the tele went 3 weeks ago!!
Talk about things happen in threes !!!!
cheers Fieldsy
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