Whirlpool American Fridge Freezer broken down – help!

[wayne111]

Re: Whirlpool American Fridge Freezer broken down – help!

hi has anyone got a pic of what the 2 caps should look like on the front board. thanks

[wayne111]

Re: Whirlpool American Fridge Freezer broken down – help!

sorry i will word that a bit better, what i meant was i want to replace the caps and relay on the front pcb and wanted to see what it should like with the 2x 1uf caps in place of the original 4. also i read that there is some mods that need doing in order to fit them as its a tight fit.
if anyone has a photo they could share of the work done i would be greatfull if you could pm or post the pic up here. thank you

[leonips]

Re: Whirlpool American Fridge Freezer broken down – help!

Hello on the main forum board I have a topic for model S20BRRB20, I followed the fixes here and it may be use to you, Good luck Leonips

[creamytash]

Re: Whirlpool American Fridge Freezer broken down – help!

Hi everybody,
I posted on here last Christmas with a problem that I am still living with and which I hope to now be able to get to the bottom of and address once and for all with a little help from some knowledgeable people on the forum.
My FF is a Whirlpool FRSS 36AF20/2 model No. 858619015012.
1)The ice maker does not recieve any water to make ice.
2)I have to carry out a manual defrost because I get a gradual increase in temp within the FRIDGE compartment, while at the same time I get a build up of frost/ice on the back wall of the FREEZER compartment.

Following the manual defrost and me mopping out the plastic tray underneath the unit, the temps are reset and the fridge and freezer runs ok for about 3 weeks – then the whole process starts again.

I have checked that the fan above the condenser is operating ok.
I have removed, checked and refitted the defrost heater eliment which is ok.
I previously had a new ‘back control board fitted in in Sept 09 by Whirlpool – just before they wrote off my fridge freezer and canceled my cover policy with D&G.

I am not an engineer of these appliances but hope to sort it out with a bit of help.
I am now looking at supecting the ‘Auto Defrost System’ and possibly the ‘Motorised Baffle’/Air Diffuser’.
My probem is that I don’t know how to eliminate one or the other.

In the back of the freezer compartment behind the back plate I can see that the heater eliment shaped around the condenser, plugs into a small black box above the fan – is that a thermostat or type of control unit that operates the defrost eliment, should look at changing this?? – what is it called as I can’t find it in any parts list on websites as they also don’t show a picture of it.
I would like to solve the auto defrost problem first and get the appliance keeping food chilled/frozen. The I propose to try and tackle the ice maker problem later.
Thank you for chewing through all of this,
Any help will be gratefully received.
David Ross – Nottingham

[Mech]

Just a quick line to all those who need help with there whirlpool american FF. I found broddersbaldrick on this forum, got in touch , got the kit from him and he fixed my boards, I would like to say that his help was way above and beyond any help i have had from anybody on the net in my time, with me being an IT professional that says something. Just a thanks for having this thread as it has saved me a fortune in replacing the 2 boards. GL everybody and I hope your FF’s get fixed like mine, been a week now and its like brand new 🙂

[ewan_mcbellbasher]

Re: Whirlpool American Fridge Freezer broken down – help!

I had the Flashing display problem with my year 2004 S20C RWW10-A/G, and following various forum advice, took a look the plunge and looked at the single electronics PCB assembly at the rear of the machine.
Note, other than the flashing display, the fridge prime function (cooling and freezing) still appeared to operate correctly; no water dispenser on my model.

The problem was with the white coloured tubular capacitors (marked with what a “AV” symbol). I changed all these capacitors by carefully desoldering and replacing with new quality components from RS Components Ltd., as follows:
1.2uF I replaced with 1.0uF RS1908450 (not quite the right value, but I couldn’t find a 1.2uF)
220nF I replaced with RS1908551 (these were a bit of a squeeze side by side; not perfect, but good enough)
680nF I replaced with RS1908438 (there was a resistor in the way of the replacements; again not perfect, but good enough)

When I measured them on an LCR meter, all the removed “AV” capacitors were a long way undervalue. Note, I replaced the 1.2uF with 1.0uF and it hasn’t appeared to cause any problem. In fact, as I replaced in the order listed above trying the PCB out after each value, it wasn’t until I replaced the 680nF ones that the fridge worked properly again.

Looking at the forums below, I think there are variations of the PCB with maybe different value capacitors, but my advice would be (provided you are competent at desoldering and soldering) to replace all white AV marked tubular capacitors with quality components. I am an electronics engineer, and could not locate the manufacturer of the “AV” capacitors, i.e. to me, they of unknown and dubious origin.

[rickle_fixit]

Re: Whirlpool American Fridge Freezer broken down – help!

I have just been on a job to a hoover S20BRSS31 today which had the chattering problem and rapidly flashing display. having never seen this fault before i said i would look into it on the net and so here i am now. i’ve learnt quite a few things about these variants in last 5 mins just from this thread and will prob repair the capacitor faults myself – thanks for the info by the way. being from an electronics background i would imagine these capacitors on the rear board are probably connected in parallel with whatever the relays are driving (to get rid of any spikes caused by switching of inductive loads) and so their failure could possibly allow any spikes created to interfere with the microcontrollers routine and stick in a loop. just voicing my thoughts for any other engineers out there with electronics knowledge. once again thanks for the info it’ll save me losing the job through the riddiculus price of some parts nowdays…. 😀

[mbu10]

Re: Whirlpool American Fridge Freezer broken down – help!

morning
have model FRSB36AF20
well started with the fridge not getting cool enough
anyway cleaned the coils (in the rear of the freezer) as it had loads of ice on it so now can feel the cool air getting into the fridge(not been switched off for 4 years)
but a couple of days later..
felt no more cold air getting into freeser
the baffle was closed so opened by hand (did not seem stuck or frozen , moved easy with finger)
but looks like the baffle is closing but not opening by it self
just wondering if there is a way to test the baffle open/close or make sure the thermister is working correctly
any help to get this work would be a god send (currently have jammed open the baffle with a little piece of card
thanks

[nibbley-uk]

Re: Whirlpool American Fridge Freezer broken down – help!

My FF is a Whirlpool FRSS 36AF20/2 model No. 858619015012.
1)The ice maker does not recieve any water to make ice.
2)I have to carry out a manual defrost because I get a gradual increase in temp within the FRIDGE compartment, while at the same time I get a build up of frost/ice on the back wall of the FREEZER compartment.

Following the manual defrost and me mopping out the plastic tray underneath the unit, the temps are reset and the fridge and freezer runs ok for about 3 weeks – then the whole process starts again.

I have checked that the fan above the condenser is operating ok.
I have removed, checked and refitted the defrost heater eliment which is ok.
I previously had a new ‘back control board fitted in in Sept 09 by Whirlpool – just before they wrote off my fridge freezer and canceled my cover policy with D&G.

I am not an engineer of these appliances but hope to sort it out with a bit of help.
I am now looking at supecting the ‘Auto Defrost System’ and possibly the ‘Motorised Baffle’/Air Diffuser’.
My probem is that I don’t know how to eliminate one or the other.

In the back of the freezer compartment behind the back plate I can see that the heater eliment shaped around the condenser, plugs into a small black box above the fan – is that a thermostat or type of control unit that operates the defrost eliment, should look at changing this?? – what is it called as I can’t find it in any parts list on websites as they also don’t show a picture of it.
I would like to solve the auto defrost problem first and get the appliance keeping food chilled/frozen. The I propose to try and tackle the ice maker problem later.
Hi David
I have had similar problems as you, firstly i had the chattering as most on here had and i replaced the parts using the kit from this forum now now more noise , but i still had a problem of no water as the pipe had frozen behind the ice box somewhere. To remedy this i turned off the ice maker and unplugged the hose pipe at the bottom of the freezer door this let the ice melt then i joined a new piece of white pipe same bore size to the old pipe and pulled it up into place joined back up and all is working fine now.
But my FF is now freezing up at the back of the freezer so mine cant be auto defrosting and i would like to know the parts to change.
Darren

[Patsyd]

Re: Whirlpool American Fridge Freezer broken down – help!

Looks like we have the same problem with our Admiral FF. Get the click-click noise from the water dispenser and the fridge isnt cooling at all now. We’ve recently has the defrost element (and 2 other parts replaced) due to a different problem – or is it related??? Who knows/

Service number is 8595 105 15000 / 11 0738 001758. Can someone advise if we need to replace both front and rear boards or just one of them.

We are also experiencing the problem with the fridge not staying cold. It has gradually increased in temperature over the past few days.

Last night we removed the filter type thing from the fridge side – its a unit at the top left corner inside the fridge – and the temperature decreased to the correct level. I have now put the unit back in but not fully in so that cold air can pass through from the freezer to the fridge.

Could a faulty board be responsible for this?

I will be more than happy to replace the capacitors (C1,C5,C6,C7,C8,C26,C27,C28) as described in this topic but just wanted to make sure first.

Thanks

Patsy

=============

Update : ordered the capacitors on Tuesday, received them Wednesday and just need to get round to soldering them onto the boards – :hmm: :hmm:

[admin]

Hi everyone! I have a problem with my fridge with its electronics. I have already paid to whirlpool to change once this board (on the picture):

But now they told me that i have to change to boards at cost of smth about 200 pounds. We waited a lot of time and then decided to buy a new fridge. But now, when i was reading this topic, i understood that i can repair it for a low price with myself.
So the problem is:
1) problem with ice making and water
2) the fridge doesn’t work, something with temperature control, but the freezer works.
It all started when we had some problems with electricity at our country house. At the beginning turning off and then on helped us, but now – no use of this trick ((

So can you advice me what capacitors i have to change to restore it to a working condition.

Thanks!

[Triassic]

Re: Whirlpool American Fridge Freezer broken down – help!

The auto defrost has stopped working on my FRSS2VAF20/0.

I’ve located the defrost element and thermostat, but where is the timer hidden and how do I switch on the defrost to test each element? I’ve read that rather than an old fashioned timer it may be an adaptive defrost controler on the mother board? Do I need to change one of the capacitors as desribed previously?

With some many people experiencing problem with this companies products can we not all contact Trading Standards or something?

[Graphite]

Re: Whirlpool American Fridge Freezer broken down – help!

Good to see this thread still helping people 😆

Another tip for clicking and flashing display is to minimise the amount of LEDs lit up – minimal seems to be -21 ºC Freezer and 4 ºC Fridge… works for me… so far anyway :tup:

Still haven’t got round to doing my front board yet and lost one of my replacement capacitors now :hmm: – need to get round to it before something serious happens LOL :innocent:

For broddersbaldricks full repair kit search ebay for ‘Whirlpool Fridge Freezer Repair kit’ or seller broddersbaldrick

Good luck…

[lotusandy]

Re: Whirlpool American Fridge Freezer broken down – help!

Hi All,

I have a FF model number S20B RWW20-A/G that was left behind in a house we have just moved into, it did the classic symptoms of capacitor failure, so I replaced all caps on the rear PCB to no avail, I then replaced all the caps on the front PCB & all was now sorted, no flashing lights or ticking relays, and the FF was woking fine for 2 days. However now the FF seems to have given up, there is no flashing etc, but the FF just wont cool either compartment at all, there is aflow of air into both sides via the vents at the top but it is at room temperature, it is making a gentle humming all the time as it was when it was working.

Any ideas before I call it a day & get a new one?

Many thanks Andy

[Triassic]

Re: Whirlpool American Fridge Freezer broken down – help!

The auto defrost has stopped working on my FRSS2VAF20/0.

I read that there is a dignostics mode which should allow me to switch the defrost element on and off for testing purposes. How do I enter the dignostics mode?

[Author]

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