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Re: Beko WM5100W fault
“I sent off for a used PCB board off ebay and fitted it but still doesn`t work, I assume the board is again faulty as there was no guarantee it would work only that they said it was checked by an engineer. what do you all think?”
They all say that!! Actually it is impossible to check a used pcboard other than by eye.
As previous comment it is usually the motor brushes worn out or more than likely jammed in their holders.Re: Baumatic BTWM5 bearing replacement
This post is getting on so I presume you`ve done it or given up! If not. From memory the front panel does not separate from the the rest of the chassis so the only way is to dismantle the thing as much as you can and then lay the machine on its side and pull the whole tank out as there`s no easy way-stupid design, they`re not alone! Why not a new tank seal required? Maybe obsolete but if still in one piece after you`ve taken the tank front clips off you could use silicon sealant on the spongey tank seal. Have a really good look at the bearing spider its at that age when they have cracked or starting to crack. Best of luck with it.
Re: Leaking soap dispenser, Bendix B/W 103W
Can`t find your model!! BIW103W? Have you got a 7″ black rubber hose, other than the dispenser to tank hose, that comes from the right hand side of the soap box that goes to the top of the tank near the front of the tank? If so that is the breather hose and if that gets blocked-up the machine creates a vacuum within the tank as the machine is filling up which then allows the water to pour out of the front of the soap draw. Difficult to believe I know and very uncommon but not unknown… usually happens on a second fill such as the 1st rinse, or the 2nd, but can even happen on wash fill though that`s even rarer.
Re: maytag/asko MWA072011A
Update. This machine was sold as spares or repairs because 1) Maytag service are/where a useless bunch of tossers who said they would get back but of course did no such thing and then so 2) got in touch with a private company who deals with Maytag to give me the low down on the chances of getting the parts bearing in mind Maytag`s merger with Indesit/Hotpoint/Whirlpool he said forget it you`d be waiting months and in any case the boards were a fortune.
No problem, happily scrapped its only money, I mean it could have easily been an ISE!!!!! I suggest no one ever spends 900 quid on any machine that after a mere 5 years you cannot get spares for, Buy a Kenwood or a Logik for circ £200 and sod `em all because you have the same rights/no rights when parts go affectively obsolete whether the machine costs 150 or 1500 quid.Re: maytag/asko MWA072011A
Thx for reply. Haven`t a clue what the part numbers are because I can`t even find a single part listed anywhere. I`ve tried Partmaster`s web site and 4our house which are the same lot anyway and this model is not listed. Looks to me like yet again another expensive folly in to the void of the appliance industry where you pays your £930 only to find there`s no spares after a few years. Almost as bad as getting a Samsung a warning to us all.
One of the pcboards has this number wm60.3-f1 807928904 if this is any use.
Going to phone up Maytag uk today and check out what those boys say.Re: Miele T230C – start program – beeper goes off after 20 s
Found the part number. If it is this stat the Ariston/Hotpoint/Indesit one is part number c00115570 as an alternative.
Re: Hotpoint Supermatic 1400 Restoration
Thanks. Lets hope he can get the machine fixed and up and running. Best of luck and a happy New Year.
Re: Miele T230C – start program – beeper goes off after 20 s
Think I`ve had this one before, once but can`t be 100{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} sure.
There`s usually a blue painted dotted thermostat, which is an over load stat, on the heater shield. It has 2 tags and 2 wires and with the wires removed should read continuity i.e.it`s basically a thermal switch which is always made unless things get very hot when it then goes open circuit and so the heater no longer heats and cannot be reset, in other words an expensive one shot safety device and its gone. But what can happen is this t/stat`s tag rivets fail-go loose because of the amperage going through over the years and the tag/s start to go a bit loose and wobbly- and this can give you sometimes it heats and then it won`t which can be the cause of the problem.
The price of this one shot thermal overload is about 30 quid or there`s a pattern one going about for 18- thinks that`s an Ariston 160 degree stat being used as a cheaper alternative replacement.
If this doesn`t solve the problem I don`t know the answer.Re: Hotpoint Supermatic 1400 Restoration
You lucky devil getting your paws on that.
No parts as far as I know but if you click the link below it`ll lead to the appliance forum that deals with ancient appliances. This particular link is about Soviet t/tubs ( also found in N Korea too ) but you can join up and see if anyone has any spare parts there. Best of luck.
http://www.automaticwasher.org/cgi-bin/ … .cgi?45187Re: Bush WV12 ‘inadequate water supply’ error code
so you`ve got mains cold water pressure up to the valve. The actual machine does indeed fill with water but it appears not to be enough hence you get this error code flash up based on time it has to fill. How old is the d/washer? What tends to happen if these machines are 3 years+ old is the l/h/side fill matrix which is behind the side panel gets blocked up with lime where the moulded water break is towards the top of this plastic fill chamber. Easy way to see what the hell is going on is to remove the side panel then switch the machine on to a programme and watch what happens- you should see after the primary pump out and then it begins to fill. Because the chamber/matrix is transparant you can see the water travel up from the valve then trough the restriction and if part blocked only trickle down. A half working inlet valve gives the same impression too but that part failing like that is pretty rare.
Re: ISE w288eco – Drum banging + Cycle doesn’t finish
Hmm! Did engineer test the machine under load- that`s the time it worked or did he test it empty. It is possible that when under load the chip that senses any out of balance is at fault and therefore this sounds like a pcb fault. Another thing to consider is if the heater is trickling to earth which on the face of you`d expect the trip to go off but not necessarily, the earth fault can back feed in to the pcb using that a restistor and confuses it temporarily- this happens on Hoovers Candy and Zanussi stuff and an ever increasing amount of modern contraptions too. Neither would flash up an error code and I wouldn`t expect it to, if one of these two ideas is right or even both faults acting simultaneously, that your machine would either. If you have a rinse and spin only programme you could try disconnecting the heater wires and isolating them/insulating with tape get a normal size load-towels for example, unlike perhaps the usual small wool size load, then try it and see what happens from rinse and spin. You may have a megger if you have megger the heating element- I`ve had the slightest of an earth reading, cold, cause all sorts of programme problems. Generally the more time a faulty heater is on when its gone up the creek the bigger the earth fault reading over that period of time just in the same way you can test a cooker element cold and nothing much may show up it`ll only show up after a few minutes as its getting really hot- elements actually can fail in some odd ways- even had then to earth and acting as a 1.7v battery before of all things.
Re: Help needed urgently bearings
Never has a set of truer words ever been spoken Martin.
I wouldn`t take the gamble on anything expensive in the appliance industry now unless everything had a 10 year warranty which about 4 Miele models come to mind which are pretty good based on what pretty good means in 2015 relative to almost all other stuff. Buy for 1000 quid = to 100 quid a year, after 10 years machine goes wrong and it will= major big bucks to get it repaired or simply an expensive repair gamble based on age = scrap it = relative to high cost of machine verses cheap 200 quid brand lasting circ 4-6 years normal use better off buying cheap brand and take a gamble or at worst your no better off. Do not base high class machines reliablity on the past, talk of 25 year old future appliances bought today lasting that length of time I find it so very difficult to believe, a myth given everything is micro proccessor based however everthing can last forever even cheap stuff so long as 1) there are parts, 2) you want to throw a variable amount/ a lot of money at the fault and 3) you can be bothered.
Some induction/ inverter machines have a 10 year warranty on the brushless motor but only because it is very rare for that part to fail unlike its pcboard control which does not have a 10 year parts cover and is the part that`s prone to failure.
I know someone who bought a Miele coffee machine, 2000 quids worth which jacked out of warranty……cost to repair £600……scrapped; that`s an awful lot of instant coffee! She`s now got a Russell Hobbs, it`ll go wrong too and she knows that she also knows two other things 1) it`ll be cheap to replace and 2) that the green revolution was nonsense, sadly, and that its true colours are now only too apparent and that is to recycle efficiently terminally shot short survival goods as quick as possible. £ talks. Have the spares cost at sensible levels as well as the original purchase price but alas that would be a complete change to the whole capitalistic system and it isn`t going to happen; dream on. `Wastage` has neally doubled in 20 years the only saving grace is that the recycle industry has grown to met the ever increasing demand- this is not what it was all originally was about it was about not buying stuff you don`t need, buying second hand, swoping stuff, buying new stuff that`s well made, and fixing what you have for as long as possible; a naive dream, and a great shame and a chance politically thrown away.Re: Curry’s essentials c510wm13 belt misaligned
Yep you can change the bearings if you want to. Bearing sizes are 6204 and 6205 and should cost you circ a fiver or less each. The oil seal can`t find the sizes but it`ll be a common size perhaps the same as a Hotpoint wm series. Your only issue is that it`s been thrashed knowing there is a problem….if it was the drum shaft and oil hub will be zapped and if so you`ll have to put that one down to experience. So long as the tank seal remains in one piece you can use silicon sealant on reassemble. There you go, that`ll give you a XMas project and much better than watching the usual TV drivel.
Re: Curry’s essentials c510wm13 belt misaligned
Front drum bearing u/s. Don`t think this machine has a sealed tank so feasable to repair so long as spider hub not damage- could well be. I`ll check for you.
If it`s any consolation last week I went to a 3 year AEG with worn bearings and that had a sealed tank, 4 months ago I went to a £500 Samsung 2.5 years old with knackered drum bearings too- what do you call a decent washer, what do you do, buy a Miele they`re great fun until the pcb fails out of warranty. Dave as much as I admire you even you know that most stuff regardless of price is challenged- ISE was and those things weren`t 200 quid, maybe this guy just got unlucky just like Hotpoint Aqualtis …. Zanussi ….Bosch owners.Mod edit. Mind the language please.
