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Re: Help to diagnose shaking/rattling Bosch WFO2465GB
I`d say the shocks are zapped myself. I think from the spin video I`d say the spider might also be an issue too ( take note ).
Best way to test a suspension leg on these things is to power off, tip the machine backwards get a 13mm ring spanner and undo the l/h/side suspension bolt at the bottom ( much easier than the r/h/side one because the pump is a bit close ). Push up the suspension out of its chassis bracket and then pull it down and push it up = if really easy to do this that leg, at least, is a gonna.
Words of wisdom: becareful of splashing out on your machine as it is common that the bearings or spider ( complete spider / drum as one unit ) either fails before knackered shocks OR after it.
A bit of a bodge if the shocks are worn out you can try this to prove a point. At the bottom of a suspension leg is a little bent piece of metal, if you bend that straight you should beable to pull out the bottom white plastic leg from the grey metal top bit. If you see what looks like, or what is left of, often red coloured or white coloured rectangle of felt – this is the grippy bit that gives the suspension leg its stiffness. You can either replace the felt or use greased cotton wool. So long as the 2 bits of the suspension provide enough stiffness that is ok. Put the contraption back together then:
Balance up you machine outside, try it with a wet load, then spin it. If all goes well you now know what the machine needs to do a proper job i.e. 2 new suspension legs which is involved and you can easily cock the tank up whilst drilling as per the modified new leg set up OR leave things as you repaired it OR indeed then discover that you do have a spider fracture as well in which case all this testing around only cost you time rather than wasting both time and even worse money and then you know what to do if worse has come to the worst…….new machine time or spend out as a big bill! Check out Bosch`s own spares website for prices. There isn`t a ” pattern ” drum / spider and there are no ” pattern ” suspension ( also known as damper ) legs as far as known. If you split the tank to do the drum / spider as far as I remember you do not have to drill through the tank to replace the new type suspension.Re: Bosch SMV53M00GB/01
Success! Did try it without replacing the sump because it was out of stock at the time and yes you are 100{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} right the thing leaked. Replaced the sump from a supplier who had it in stock (£33 ) and redid it and now all is well.
NOTES when cleaning the stainless steel rim of the tank where the sump fits watch those fingers as it as sharp as a knife. They recommend using rinse aid on the sumps rubber seal but we didn`t have any so used a very small amount of washing up liquid instead which worked out very well.Re: Oko Lavamat 74620 update
Could be: a poor soldering relay joint on the bottom pcboard. The line of thinking goes something like this: the motor relay soldered joint is poor ( if you have a look AND IF it is indeed that you will visually see it ) = the door lock is wired through the pcb via the motor = no drum action = no go = might go. A similar problem happens when the motor brushes are nearly worn out and the motor is running on brush dust; it might be that AND
at the backside of the pcb and so if you see a poor soldered spot resolder it. Note if the motor brushes are worn out a new set appears to be unavailable (?) but usually a pair of Hotpoint fhp “L” type brushes should do the job but check first.Re: Problem with John Lewis Model JLWM1417
As a very rough guess I`d say the spider is cracked which usually shows up only spin and sometimes at only max spin speed. The spider is the aluminium alloy 3 legged X member behind the drum that you cannot see unless dismantled with a shaft that goes through the drum bearings to the pulley wheel. The only other thing that I can think off of is a broken concrete weight.
Re: SHARP ES-GD75B Washer/Tumble Combo – Dirty washing
I do not know this model as it will be to new to me BUT as a general rule of thumb do the following: get a bottle of liquid lemon flash ( £2.00 ) and a washing machine descaler. Set m/ch on 60 degrees or higher, add descaler crystals ( Aqua Softna is the best ) and pour 2 or 3 CAP fulls of lemon Flash ( if you have a domestic water softerner use 1 cap ) over the crystals in the main wash compartment of the soap dispenser and then start the machine with no oap power and no clothes, and let it go to the end / finish. Most of the bacteria that causes the smell should be nuked. However since your machine is a washer dryer there could be aload of rotting lint in its condenser unit which is mostly above the water line. If this is the case you`ll have to dismantle the condenser from the machine and clean out all the crap / lint – there is no other way other than physically cleaning by hand this condenser out and no amount of fooling around with chemicals will solve the problem should it be blocked up there. The condenser is usually a white semi transparent moulded chamber that goes from the dryer fan to the back of the tank unit in case you did not know. Can be tricky to do on some machines,but power off, and, err, don`t break anything in the process!!!
Re: LG WASHER DRYER F1480RD6 NO POWER
Yes but all I can say is it is PROBABLY that.
I had one do exactly the same thing and it was the main power board. Bit of a gamble of course, but it always is, as you cannot be 100{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} sure!Re: Zanussi Aquacycle 1200 not heating
Well at a guess your down to pressure switch, pressure switch hose/air trap which it probably isn`t, and the pcboard. The carbon looking dust is usually seen within the pcb.
Re: Bosch Logixx 8 Powers OFF when Filling in Softening Stag
Thanks for letting us know it was the power / main pcb. Worse case scenario, as per typical of course!!
Re: Zanussi Aquacycle 1200 not heating
The cut out you refer to is an electronic temperature sensor = thermostat.
So you have changed the complete element and you still have no heat. Other than a broken wire – not common – it could be the pressure switch – round thing with a thin hose that disappears to the semi transparent white chamber that is attached to the sump hose. Worth blowing down that pipe with the machine empty as might be blocked, you might as you pull that pipe off the pressure swt here a click and if you do the air trap will be the problem ( part blocked up ( this normally would cause the machine to over fill or at worst flood ) so long as machine is empty. Could be the actual swt itself but cannot remember how many clicks, 1, 2, or 3 it might have or its wires -wires not common fault. Other than that relay soldering joint on pcboard.Re: Indesit door error code
Old post but probably the door interlock and its wires melted. If it is ( or by now probably was ) this you might still be unlucky as often the pcb is taken out at the same time.
Re: Whirlpool Washing Machine WWDC 6400/1 Flood – Please hel
EDIT. “If it does shut the valve off immediatly it`ll be something to do with either a blockage in the air trap / pin split pressure swt hose, pressure swt itself or wires leading to it.”
Should read: but if it DOES NOT cut off the water as the machine is filling up with the power switched on then it`ll be a blockage in the air trap…..etc….
My sincere apologies for this error..
Re: Panasonic NA-140VX3 door problems
Yeah I do not see a break down either! 97 quid for a whole door for heavensake almost as bad as some Siemens machines where the handle is not obtainable only a whole door!
MIGHT be ebay item 112280113577. 7 quid not bad! WOWdiscounts is allied to Partmaster under different trading name. Have a look. Tried to X ref the stated model number axwidh55346 ( though that could be the part number??? ) but does not seem to exist as far as I can tell so not at all sure what is up there but info on this stuff hard to come by. Phone up Whitegoods parts and ask if all else fails.
General notes: if the door handle freely moves FULLY the door`s striker ( the metal bit ) it won`t be the handle. However if there is any floppyness it could be that that is the problem OR a broken door frame lugs and if so your back to buying expensive door. Could be the door has dropped on a worn hinge so does not engage the sticker into the door lock square on, close the door slowly and check it. Hinge is available as a seperate part. As far as the lock goes doubtful that is messed up.Re: Whirlpool Washing Machine WWDC 6400/1 Flood – Please hel
Well since this machine is behaving itself now it is going to be pure guess work based on just what we know rather than the sequence of how.
Did you reset, as in press the rest / cancel button then change to what you really wanted i.e. started afresh or just turned the machine to the new programme, if you did the latter it would not have cancelled the original programme unless you turned the selctor knob to off then turned to your new programme with water still in the machine….surprised it flooded either which way though, as no-doubt you were!
Things in general that can cause a machine, not necessarily your make or model, to mess-up like this, try not to get too overly worried!
1) the air trap is blocked up fairly common or there is a pin prick hole in the thin rubber hose to the pressure switch ( latter pretty rare). doubtful the actual pressure switch is at fault itself. check wires to it.
2) the inlet valve failed to cut off because its plunger got jammed. Pretty rare but possible I suppose.
3) programmer relay / pcb got totally but only temporarily confused. Impossible to verify, would be a total expensive guess at this stage and very rare. Do not tat about with it you will prove nothing.
4) soap box breather blocked up causing a part tank vacuum – as machine fills up the displaced air cannot go anywhere to release the pressure within the tank. Water then pours out of the soap dispenser draw. The actual water level in the machine however is not NORMALLY filled up above the top of the door when this happens and it is not that common unless the machine is ancient which yours isn`t.
5) AS A GENERAL NOTE. This is what happens when you trust a machine. Distrust all machines as much as a politician. Never ever put any machine on and not be around i.e. pushed off shopping / gone to work / gone to bed. You got lucky you were in hundreds of folks nationally never are!
6) loads of other wierd and wacky stuff it could be.
7)What you would have to do to prove this is to replicate the fault exactly how it failed the first time if you can remember what you did in the panic. Even then it might not screw-up! e.g. does the machine fill up with water, and how high, on wash programme X. If the water gets up to half the height of the door glass it is at fault: if you turn the machine`s plug off at the mains and the machine carries on filling it`ll be your water valve at fault. If it does shut the valve off immediatly it`ll be something to do with either a blockage in the air trap / pin split pressure swt hose, pressure swt itself or wires leading to it. Should also check the breather at the soap box to tank hose too. Any large amounts of gumming soap powder in the soap box underneath the soap draw check there too and obviously the hole where the water goes down which is much more likely to blockup there.
Can`t think of anything else but it is more likely to be something silly than major.
