[1totalshambles]

Re: Samsung WD8704RJA1/XEU

” Have a visual look at the inlet valves. What you are looking for is a over heated area of the plastic that encases the solenoid windings. If either one should short, the resistance is lessened, the pump comes on because usually the pump and solenoids are inter-connected.”
A very general rule which is a pointer only. Look there first.

[1totalshambles]

Re: Bosch Logixx 8 Powers OFF when Filling in Softening Stag

Odd fault, congrats! May well be nothing to do with any connection with the valves the machine just happens to mess up then – stranger things are known with appliances! Because of your recent developments I would, at least here in Blighty, have a good look at the machines electrical socket, then I would have a look at the machines suppressor, though not very common component to fail. Failing to then find anything I would cut the mains plug off and fit a new one. But before anyone wields a pair of pliers it is better if you can get the machine to run first then get it to mess up then wiggle mains lead near, presumed a moulded plug, which may or may not prove something and if you have a mains test lead screwdriver see if you have power, a live, to and then out of the suppessor when things have gone wrong preferably without blowing it up or yourself!.
If no matter what you do you always have power then it COULD be the main circuit board fooling around though as you know that is the very last resort.
To me it looks like a duff wall socket, presume it is not on an extension lead – tut tut! – or it is a plug issue. Have a look at those points before buying anything.

Come to think about it someone else came a cropper in the same way a week or so ago so read this too:

Classixx 1200 washing machine stops mid-cycle

by alpha123 » Wed May 16, 2018 10:13 pm
E-Nr : WAE 24164GB/30

Somewhere between 5 minutes and 15 minutes into a wash cycle, my washing machine stops and all the lights go out. If I turn the knob back to off and leave it for something more than about 5 minutes and then turn it back to the wash cycle, it will carry on and often, but not always, finish the whole cycle.

I thought it might be a problem with the power board, but I put a new one in and got exactly the same behaviour.

I have the exploded parts diagram and list of parts but can’t work out what the problem is. The possibilities seem to include..
a. The operating module (which LOOKED fine when I inspected it while replacing the power module, but obviously could be faulty)
b. The Capacitor-interference suppressor (that doesn’t seem very likely, but then I know next to nothing about white goods).
c. The door lock (but would that turn out all the lights?)
d. The Sensor-NTC (don’t know what this is)
e. The Regulator-Water level (would this turn all the lights out?)

All suggestions welcome.

Thank you.

Re: Bosch Classixx 1200 washing machine stops mid-cycle

by 1totalshambles » Fri May 18, 2018 8:59 pm
” I have the exploded parts diagram and list of parts but can’t work out what the problem is. The possibilities seem to include..
a. The operating module (which LOOKED fine when I inspected it while replacing the power module, but obviously could be faulty)
b. The Capacitor-interference suppressor (that doesn’t seem very likely, but then I know next to nothing about white goods).
c. The door lock (but would that turn out all the lights?)
d. The Sensor-NTC (don’t know what this is)
e. The Regulator-Water level (would this turn all the lights out?) “

1Totalshambles reply.
I see your dilemma having lashed out on a power board.
Start at the sealed mains plug and mains socket as I have these fail in a way similar / edit: same way / as you describe.
As a general run as to how these things goof up:
a) operating module. Could be but not common, your very last resort. That is all I can say. b) Get the machine to screw up, remove the lid off the machine, any kids around tell them skadoodle off out of the area, pull out the out put connector wire pair from the suppress. Get a mains test light screwdriver and test the live input tag on the suppressor ( i.e. the brown wire and if you have zilch it is the lead or the plug or the socket, it is usually the moulded plug fooling around but if you do get a light via screwdriver test to that live tag on the previously removed connector block however, and better still, if you have a multimeter you can test live in, neutral out on the input tags and the output L and N to prove suppressor is ok or not. Suppessor failure is not common on these.c) door lock itself won`t be that but check its plug in wires d) NTC sensor is the electronic thermostat thing that is pushed into the heater. Won`t be that. e) the pressure water level sensor switch very unlikely but once again check its wires.

Normally I do not recommend any live testing for Joe Public but in this case this is the only live testing you should do to prove a point given the rather off beat fault that you have. Do not under any circumstances when live testing the suppressor accidentally slip the testing leads off the L and N output terminals, which are very close to each other, together unless you like a large bang and a blown fuse at the minimum!! Be very careful.

Re: Bosch Classixx 1200 washing machine stops mid-cycle

by alpha123 » Sun May 20, 2018 1:38 pm
It turns out it WAS the sealed mains plug. I had already changed the fuse (even though the old one seemed fine), but it didn’t occur to me that the actual switch would be faulty – at least not in a way that it would cut in and out pretty much at random.

So I’ve got a new mains plug and all is well.

Thank you very much indeed for your detailed reply. Next time I need some parts, I will buy them from you.

[1totalshambles]

Re: BEKO WDR7543121B Not Spinning

Usually suspect is the motor control module. In a black holder the thing with the largeish silver coloured heat sinks. This part fails. Any capacitors that look swelled or with domed tops may well give the game away as to where the problem is. The Bosch version on the same brushless motor theme also fails the same or similar way too.

[1totalshambles]

Re: Bosch Classixx 1200 washing machine stops mid-cycle

” I have the exploded parts diagram and list of parts but can’t work out what the problem is. The possibilities seem to include..
a. The operating module (which LOOKED fine when I inspected it while replacing the power module, but obviously could be faulty)
b. The Capacitor-interference suppressor (that doesn’t seem very likely, but then I know next to nothing about white goods).
c. The door lock (but would that turn out all the lights?)
d. The Sensor-NTC (don’t know what this is)
e. The Regulator-Water level (would this turn all the lights out?) “

I see your dilemma having lashed out on a power board.
Start at the sealed mains plug and mains socket as I have these fail in a way similar as you describe.
As a general run as to how these things goof up:
a) operating module. Could be but not common, your very last resort. That is all I can say. b) Get the machine to screw up, remove the lid off the machine, any kids around tell them skadoodle off out of the area, pull out the out put connector wire pair from the suppress. Get a mains test light screwdriver and test the live input tag on the suppressor ( i.e. the brown wire and if you have zilch it is the lead or the plug or the socket, it is usually the moulded plug fooling around but if you do get a light via screwdriver test to that live tag on the previously removed connector block however, and better still, if you have a multimeter you can test live in, neutral out on the input tags and the output L and N to prove suppressor is ok or not. Suppessor failure is not common on these.c) door lock itself won`t be that but check its plug in wires d) NTC sensor is the electronic thermostat thing that is pushed into the heater. Won`t be that. e) the pressure water level sensor switch very unlikely but once again check its wires.

Normally I do not recommend any live testing for Joe Public but in this case this is the only live testing you should do to prove a point given the rather off beat fault that you have. Do not under any circumstances when live testing the suppressor accidentally slip the testing leads off the L and N output terminals, which are very close to each other, together unless you like a large bang and a blown fuse at the minimum!! Be very careful.

[1totalshambles]

Re: Hotpoint Aqualtis AQ113F4971 No Power

Compressor, you mean suppressor. At a guess you could get lucky and it is still the door lock. However, given the rather suspect pcb components on these things, I would look at first is the 3 phase power pcb. If lucky you may see where it has failed = blown component = so you`ll at least know and this will be dealer only repairable at great expense unless under parts warranty! If any tracks on the board are blown something caused it and it could well be the door lock that did just that.
Power off at all times. Becareful as the power pcb packs a punch even if power is turned off so wait 20 mins before handling to allow the capcaitors to discharge.

[1totalshambles]

Re: Error code135

Never come across your error code as stated.
However your best bet is to first have a look and check out the motor brushes before doing anything else presuming that the machine pumps out, the air chamber is not blocked up ( trace the thin black hose from the pressure switch down to the sump hose and ye shall find it ).
If you find the m/brushes are worn out and have a multimeter check each brush tag to its terminal block for a reading – continuity = a buzz on most meters that way you prove that the internal winding fuse has not blown. If the commutator looks a trite iffy with a tiny ridge in the middle get some very very fine sand paper and gently turn the spindle ( armature ) and lightly apply a bit of thumb pressure on the s/paper to dress it up. If it all looks somewhat suspect buy a set of the cheap 4 quid motor brushes to try rather than lashing out 30 quid or so on a superior genuine pair, all you want to initially prove is that the motor works.
You may well need to do the reset again afterwards.
You do not give the ENR model number ( behing the door on label at top ). If proved motor zapped there are some CE-SET Qualtex ( which seem to be to date ok ) after market motors for about 70/80 quid rather than Bosches rather fanciful 200 odd quid motors but you`d have to check it these motors are comparable first.
All the best.

[1totalshambles]

Re: Bosch w/dryer wvh28369gb/02

UPDATE.
Got a new replacement valve to replace the recent new one that was still giving trouble and luckily that one lasted………..3 days!! So that was 2 new valves in total. Sent back to get refund having refunded customer. Lucky too second valve did not cause a flood.
600 quid (?) 5 year old Bosch now scrapped. Terrible isn`t it?

[1totalshambles]

Re: Easy to repair washing machine wanted

“I’m looking at new machines and the cost of repairing a simple bearing failure on the plastic tub machines is quite surprising. Are there any new machines where the bearings alone can be replaced, or do the bearings on new models last a lot longer?”
Yes. Vestel Turkish made machines, most Montpellier – though built in machines are rebadged Hoovers / Candy or another example is Royale. Chinese made machines including Samsung although I would not recommend a Samsung, there again I don`t recommend anything not even a Miele.
In the crazed world of washing machines luckily bearings are commom sizes and a couple of quid each though where you can come a cropper is if you need a new spider ( due to the machine being thrashed and then becomes trashed or just naturally corrodes as they are an aluminum alloy! ) as this usually means a drum complete which in turn is expensive. Some sealed tanks e.g. Indesit can be 110 quid so if that seems reasonable to you and your repairing the machine yourself then that might be less hassle – well, at least from that point of view.
Ebac. Seem to be somewhat low key despite all the fanfare, perhaps only sold more in N England? From factory production photo they have, or rather it had, a sealed tank unit so presume they all have sealed tanks.
Second hand stuff: should be able to pick up a Miele as a spare or repair off Ebay from 5 quid to something that works costing 80 quid +/-. Could land on a bargain or a world of hurt i.e. a total money pit that is equal to 4 boxes worth of tissues to cry into as parts are usually expensive as I`m sure you know. Most other makes out there that are old will have corroding spiders so if, say, you thought a WFF2000 Bosch rocks your boat which was a good machine from circ 2000 era the drum / spider unit is obsolete so not a good idea unless you know that it was run on soft water supply. Conversely, easiest machine to work on with competitively cheap and still after all these years, a good supply of spare parts is a Hotpoint WM or WMA series; mine`s a s/hand WM56 and is about 18 years old from memory; great machine had a set of bearings November 2016 ( you can get a new spider as a separate part from the drum ), Dad`s WMA is s/hand which was rebuilt 12 years ago has never gone wrong again except for the rear filter clean and a pair of shocks / dampers @ about 14 quid. His machine is 18`ish years old (?) if there are any left you could get a ” working machine ” for about 10 to 20 quid as a private buy or even free, be prepared to have to repair it though as something will need replacing..Bits that go wrong with WMA series are shocks, bearings / spider, motor brushes – 2 or 3 different motors were fitted – door seal, drum paddles, door lock and chaffed wires on the front concrete weight and poss heater, still well worth doing compared to a piece of brand new modern junk of any make and at any price whether it be 200 to 2000 quid; same could apply to a second hand Miele though that would / could break the bank as parts are 4x + more expensive than Hotpoint stuff from the same era.

[1totalshambles]

Re: Bosch w/dryer wvh28369gb/02

“This elderly customer not being able to isolate the water is not surprising though I’m sure you advised isolating the power once the machine has finished?”
Yes and yes. But that has nothing to do with valve failure.

Here’s hoping too that your public liability insurance is up to date?
Yes. Lucky for me I think i`ve got a copy of your policy. Thanks for the concern Martin.

[1totalshambles]

Re: Bosch w/dryer wvh28369gb/02

“A contradictory statement from someone who regularly praises the Oriental carp “
Have never mentioned fish of any type on this site as well you know whether Carp or just plain Pollacks!

[1totalshambles]

Re: candy cdp95380pr-80

Thanks. Sequence of events. If set to quick wash or any other programme the machine fills 3 times and pumps out 3 times one after each other then fault code comes up and bleeps.
Had a look at heater since this is common on these apparently but seems ok. Somewhat confused by Kaibart`s response, do you mean that EF is the side fill chamber counter being at fault? Think best to have another look. Had a look at pcb yesterday looks normal, no duff solderings, no blown triac etc…. but could be relay. Beginning to think got nothing to do with pcb being at fault, dunno at present time.

[1totalshambles]

Re: candy cdp95380pr-80

Thanks electrofix. Very good of you to find the info. Looks like pcb fault then, O` acursed thing! Will see if pcb has to be on site programmed though pretty sure you can get them pre programmede via Candy. On the other hand might just be nuked relay soldering with a bit of luck, I`ll have a good look later on today.
Thanks.

[1totalshambles]

Re: Hoover WDYN-855D – Not Drying

Or the condenser is blocked up? The condenser is part of the rear tank moulding. If you do as per Timdowning suggests whilst you have that all removed turn off cold water inlet hose and disconnect from machine`s end/valve and use the high pressure of the hose to blast water down the condenser channel to clear any rubbish for about 10 secs. Obviously as previously stated with the machine unplug.

[1totalshambles]

Re: Bosch condenser t/dryer WTE84307GB/13

Hi Martin. The toc does not click out cutting out the heater =
Got a feeling, or at least suspect that it may not be over heating anyway and that is a red herring, just seemed to me to get hot quicker than I would expect and will not reverse the drum. Still leaves the question why the machine just aborts the programme with the start light flashing though. Get feeling it might be pcb run relay trying to be clever?? Your thoughts please? What in your experience is it most likely to be. My experience on these machines is fairly limited.

[1totalshambles]

Re: Bosch condenser t/dryer WTE84307GB/13

Yeah thanks Iadom on the drum rotating only one direction wasn`t sure at all as far as I knew could`ve swung 50 50. Still anyone else got any idea what is wrong with this damn thing? Anyone?? Anything common that screws up?

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