andyjawa

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Viewing 5 posts - 781 through 785 (of 785 total)
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  • in reply to: White Knight ‘A Class’ cracked drum #218450
    andyjawa
    Participant

    Re: White Knight ‘A Class’ cracked drum

    Last time I ordered a new tumble dryer drum from Crosslee direct it cost me £35.00 including delivery…..in 2008, Can`t see why it should be near £100 now- did you ask them the cost of a drum or have you based the costings on what the repairers are going to charge?

    in reply to: Spider arm cracked #386960
    andyjawa
    Participant

    Re: Spider arm cracked

    Yes who knows?? I know of a 14 year old Indesit machine that is on its original bearings- no lie, cheap machine. Next point I don`t like Bosch, they`re expensive to repair, expensive to buy and German (!) though many are made in Spain, Russia, and elsewhere. If you were talking about a Bosch made in the 1980`s where they were very expensive but very very good quality then I`d agree but a 2012 Bosch I have little faith in especially the cheaper £350 ones. Point to note not all the cheap machines are rubbish even dare I say Bush/ Haier- shock horror- some of these you can dismantle to remove the drum and replace the bearings and the spider without having to buy the drum complete- so long as you can get the parts. It is complex this sealed tank business- the Aqualtis Hotpoint contraption that some retail at £600 have a sealed tank unit-not good for the money ( horrible unreliable piece of tosh) so based on that you cannot base too much on price either.

    in reply to: Servis constant filling and pumping #387155
    andyjawa
    Participant

    Re: Servis constant filling and pumping

    If not syphoning….Water in the pressure switch?? Did you lay the machine down on its right hand side? If, other than the pump out original problem the machine was ok before hand then I can only think of this. The pressure swt is usually a circular shape though did come across an oblong one on occasions either at the rear near the main t/block or more commonly attached to the X chassis member near the front right, both have a black thin pipe attached to it that goes down to the sump hose ( via the air trap). Only a guess!!! The pump only has 2 wires …..unless of course there is a fault with the pump windings- remove if possible the pumps plastic stator cover and see of the windings are burnt. The valves and pump are often wired on the neutral side and if there is an electrical problem one can affect the other- check the valve solenoids too visually for any plastic swelling.

    in reply to: wma 61 bearing size? #387310
    andyjawa
    Participant

    Re: wma 61 bearing size?

    Will add: once tank out of the casing because there is no back to the machine as such to get the pulley wheel off, remove the pulley wheel (13mm socket). From the rear bearing you can tell which kit you`ll need: 30mm shaft size rear bearing is a 6205 size= about 52 mm diameter. The 35mm shaft rear bearing is a 6206 size i.e. bigger at about 98mm both measurements taken across the diameter of the bearing and obviously not the hole size! Point 1: Hotpoint as far as I am aware no longer supply the bearings kit for the 30mm shaft kit-obsolete with them BUT Qualtex do a good pattern kit part number BKT85, and have just reintroduced the 30 mm spider WITH the bearings kit part number Quaunt21. The Qualtex bearing kit only for the 35mm shaft is BKT81, the spider is C00117329 Hotpoint part number, can`t find the Qualtex one. Point 2: buy a new tank seal also. Point 3 if the drum really is wobbling you might need a new shaft (spider shaft) which bolts on to the rear of the s/steel tank- they get badly damaged if the machine has been thrashed with collapsed front bearing that goes in to shrapnel mode- not a plus! Point 4: if so you have several options, scrap it there and then on costs, replace the spider which can be tricky as the screws probably won`t come out requiring drilling them out, or buy a complete tank unit C00112679 assembly which was/still available (?) but of course is even more expensive than the spider unit-by one hell of a lot!! Best of luck.

    in reply to: LG direct drive #387223
    andyjawa
    Participant

    Re: LG direct drive

    POWER OFF UNPLUGGED. Complete tank out job out from the front of the machine and the remove all the tube screws that hold the the 2 halves of the plastic tank together having marked both halves first with marker pen assists visually lining up when reassembling. Not going in to the complexities of the screws and sequence of how to dismantle the machine – if you don`t have a clue where to start you probably won`t change the bearings anyway with out sounding rude and I`m sorry if I do. Point to note you will need 2 bearings and the oil seal and a tank/tube seal make sure you order the parts for you exact model of LG they are not all the same and some general purpose grease-use very sparingly on the new bearing seal inner face lip. Not difficult to repair just take your time and take notes of where the wires go and what colour/s they are for when you re build the thing. If you have hammered the machine with the bearing/s in a dreadful state and you can move the drum up and down i.e. it is lose by an inch, then you`ll probably need the drums spider unit too as the shaft will be most likely chewed up by bearing shrapnel! You knock the old bearings out or what is left of them and carefully knock the new ones in hitting the outer race NOT the inner race, grease also around the edge of the oil seal and push the seal in to the bearing recess with your thumbs aided by a gentle taps with a flat faced hammer of the edge of the seal otherwise it distorts it-not good! Best Of Luck.

Viewing 5 posts - 781 through 785 (of 785 total)