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Re: wma 61 bearing size?
Well these machines are better than their new efforts!
Look the best thing you do is firstly don`t buy anything yet until you visually see the condition of the spider- so dismantle it first.
Common things that need replacing at 8 years are the motor brushes,the outlet hose, probably the pump,the door seal, the door hinge if the door has dropped to the door lock and the hinges plastic bearings, clean the sump filter and the air trap attached to it,and check the element for limescale. All these parts you can buy pattern but I would not skimp and buy cheap motor brushes of which there are several different ones for several types of motors they fitted to this model so buy the proper ones based on your motor make e.g. fph, bosch and there is another one I can`t remember.
Make a list, go to hotpoints web site and look up the parts and prices and part numbers then go to e-bay and you`ll find practically all the parts you`ll need but without having to pay fancy hotpoint parts prices. I would only buy the genuine brushes for any machine unless I know the quality-some cheap brushes are the wrong grade and the powder dust can clog the armature segments causing expensive results- as Bosch £2.90 pattern cheap as chips brushes are well known for this to much expense 2 weeks down the line after a repair!Re: Servis constant filling and pumping
Hmm if I`m reading this right you say the pump windings were burnt…..not good, probable that the pc board has blown in that case- your best bet is to have a good look at it for blown tracks. The pump wires around the wrong way is not a problem as the pump will only turn one direction due to the stator/windings design.
Re: White Knight ‘A Class’ cracked drum
Excellent and well argued Martin. Yes I agree, cheap machines= problems and usually a short life. Expensive machines usually= higher quality and less likely to have a short life….. but what if it has a short life relative to the cost of the machine; though having a right off fault is fairly unusual- this was one of my points put in an abstract way that was all using the Bosch example to illustrate the point, and a good point it was.. Thanks for your comments. May the trade be with you.
Re: White Knight ‘A Class’ cracked drum
Martin. Yes but there is no reason why I should see your or anybody elses take on the subject. I have my thoughts on expensive machines and you have yours which does not mean I have to agree with you. But the thrust of your comments have merit and overall you have a strong point it is just that I disagree with you and the main bulk of the trade…. and why not given my example as above, surely proves a point does it not?
Re: White Knight ‘A Class’ cracked drum
Re Iadom “Forgive me if I misunderstand your rant, but are you suggesting that the forum moderators like to ‘rip off’ people?” No and if you read it correctly I do not say that in the context of the article at all as the emphasis is on the word Miele and no one else.”You have obviously been lurking since 2007 without bothering to make a single post. What has prompted your participation yesterday?” Correct. Due to boredom I thought I`d help a few folks out, beginning to wish I hadn`t bothered. But thanks for fed back.
Re: BOSCH SGV4313GB/12 ‘ stopped’
Can`t look up your fault codes. But usually when Bosch do your fault or something like it is something to do with the pressure switch assembly or its micro switches to the left of the red float rod you moved up to switch on the outlet pump. Is the other m/switch with the ,usually blue, lever triggered by the pressure swt?, Does this assembly look blocked up / dirty is the sump hose blocked up -very common. Clean all this (power off of course!), disconnect the inlet pipe then reconnect the inlet pipe and then see if it fills up. If you have to remove the micro swt wire blocks mark them so you do not x them and you refit the right way round i.e. not upside down on the wrong terminals – very important. The assembly does detach from the base- watch the water from the header container since you have to remove it to get the assembly out. Watch you do not lose the rubber o rings too (-look at where they go first, you`ll see them) in all the fun as the water comes out. If you careful it is possible to dismantle the p/swt assembly and get it back together in one piece. part number for the p/swt assembly is BSH263186 ABOUT £27.00 should you want/need one. This is a bit of a guess as I said I do not know the fault codes so I could be wrong and misleading you but worth a try.
Re: Diplomat ADP 8132 tripping RCD
Heater-as good a guess from you end as it is from mine. Presume you have the element visible from inside the tank- a dog legged looking element and not an element tube that is under the tank out of sight. If the dog legged jobby then yes it is easy to replace but before you buy it have a good look at the element for any obvious burn marks, splits, or just looks `bad`. To test it. power off/unplug, remove the wires off the element, you`ll need a multimeter set on 1k ohms, test each terminal of the element to earth-if you get any reading it is duff. Also test terminal to terminal if you get no reading the element is also duff. Make sure that when/if replacing the element you tighten up the rubber/boss nut/s up without over doing it and make sure if there was an earth wire/s you refit them.
Re: Indesit part identification?
Part is called a lower wash arm bush Indesit part number c00256577 and it should screw out of the sump anti clockwise as per a normal thread from memory. The lower wash blade is part number c00256578 if you want to know this too. Pretty sure this is what your after.”It looks like the piece needs a hex key to remove”-not as far as I remember, it just unscrews from the sump but if you mean it has a moulded hexangonal for a spanner for tightening you could be right-don`t have a picture to look at so unsure!
Re: smeg DI612CA1 goes pop again
now its doing it again only after 5 mins and no sign of shorting or mice the only noticeable thing is the element is not warm
Since it took out the trip AND the fuse and now still doesn`t heat if I read you right. Possible that 1) element u/s. 2) it blew the printed circuit board in the facia panel- quite likely. 3)the little nibbler has eaten something else, 4) the suppessor has blown up- quite common also-the suppessor is where the mains cable comes in to the chassis at the back of the machine from memory on your model. Always Power off to check the machine over. You`ll need a multimeter to read through the heating element to check continuity/resistance i.e.ohms and to earth whereas a blown up track in the pcb should be obvious. Best of luck George.Re: Leaking LG washing machine WM-14445FDS
The last lg I repaired-last week- which was not your model number had a leak from the dispenser hose (which is common)in which the water ran down the circumference of the tank and dripped at 6o/clock , ran towards the pump area on my model which is on the left of the machine as the floor sloped that way and gave the impression that the pump/filter was leaking or that the tank seal was leaking when looking underneath when this was not the case at all-£10 hose fixed the problem……….long shot for your problem but a point none-the-less.
Re: White Knight ‘A Class’ cracked drum
“Wonder why thread was dumped”- yeah me too!
Ref Martin-And I can`t see why, if you can get a new drum at a cheaper price you would not attempt to repair a White Knight or anything else for that matter if the price is right. I sometimes feel I`m in total despair at this trade I really do and I`ve been in it for 30 years.
Good luck with the Beko. Off on a tangent, I like the cheaper brands, (most monitors on this forum hate them, I wonder why? Could it be they can`t repair them for sensible money and so only like Bosch and AEG, or rip off to repair Miele perhaps) for at least you have the option of scrapping them without being caught in the `was expensive to buy, too expensive to repair trap`as a percentage i.e. e bay is full of washing machines/ dryers that don`t work- and sold as not working- at the moment there is a Bosch w/mch 3 years old with a u/s motor at £4.00, considering the machine cost £500 approx when new this is one way of losing a lot of dosh very fast- what would you rather devalue to almost nothing from a machine that cost £500+ or one that cost £200 or less? Both potentially can fail prematurely as we all know.Re: Whirlpool Tumble Drier AWZ 2650 not dryng properly
Cannot fInd AWZ2650 listed anywhere, weird! The heater tags are well known as rubbish, cut them off and re tag would be a good start. There is another thermostat on most w/pool machines other than the 2 ones on the element- do know what yours looks like of course- the vented type have a stat towards the front of the plastic base accessible by removing the drum and the only other one is the condenser type where the stat, from memory is via a plastic panel from the front- ages since I worked on any w/pool t/dryer so take note!
Re: White Knight ‘A Class’ cracked drum
Damn it your right Martin, did n`t see the old date, will watch out for that one in future. Happy New Year by the way.
Re: Hotpoint Aquarius WDL 540 takes forever to dry?
Hi, From memory only….probably reason for poor drying, given that you say you get some heat, is either the blue coloured section of the 3 way inlet valve- the one with the grey plastic hose coming from it that goes to the condenser is u/s: open circuit solenoid and so does not allow water in to the condenser unit or the condenser is blocked up- there is no user cleanable/ get at able filter unless you dismantle. It is possible that there is no heat at all(?) so could be the spiral heating element which is held on to the manifold by 2 brass nuts- that is all you will see unless you dismantle the manifold halves, or if fitted, the thermal link has gone which is one end of the heater terminal and is under a piece of heat insulated covering the other end goes to a push in connector. Power off and machine therefore unplugged when testing and you`ll need a multimeter to read the element, solenoid, and thermal link for continuity.
Re: Problem with washing machine, any advice
If I think your machines are the ones with an induction motor i.e. no carbon brushes fitted to the motor. The capacitor is usually rear of machine looking Left hand side at the bottom of the left hand chassis frame, often with a plastic or cellophane cover. Your looking for an off white cylinder component 4 or 5 inches high with wires coming out of the top and it is bolted to the bottom of the chassis by a 13mm nut…..Do not confuse this with a suppessor which can look similar if fitted to the machine which from memory there isn`t one but I could be wrong-a long time since I`ve seen one of your machines. The capacitor will have a number on it like 10uf or 16 uf or 18 uf as an example you need to buy and try the same rating not just any old thing. The capactitor will hold a charge once being switched on to test even if after the power is then switched off so be careful when changing the part over. Power off and unplugged please to the machine of course before you attempt it!! Price of capacitor should be around £10.00- £15.00 to buy at most.
