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“I’m intending to replace it with a heat pump” Well we all make mistakes and buying a heatpump tumble dryer is usually a major mistake.
Points on capacitors. Those cheap Chinese caps are famed for not working for very long so be warned. If you can get a cheap one buy it only to prove a point (unless you`re dead sure) that it was a duff cap then buy a decent european make.Well; your video hath disappeared. To make a guess rear ball race bearing failure or jockey pulley belt tensioner has failed?
My own take on dishwashers is most, if not all, are impaired some how some where. Some are small common faults but cheap to put right and others are much more ingrained expensive problems and what is even worse the price you pay means there`s no guarantee of a positive outcome.
I used to think Beko were reasonable machines for the spons you paid (the then, 15 year ago entry level machines being somewhat even more successful with the benefit of mostly cheap to buy spares should it come a cropper) but no longer is that the case. The new entry level Beko is poorly made in my view and would not be recommended; I would not my self buy any Beko and that includes most of their washing machines too although I liked their Chinese and Turkish made entry level 6kg machines.
Bosch, Neff, dishwashers someone has righty pointed out the s/steel verses plastic tub base warping problem and that was/still is true. What they haven`t mentioned is the cursed heater failure which is very well known, expensive to get fixed, and repeating too which is even worse. My own record which as far as I can tell no one has beaten was replacing the heater come wash motor, bought as one unit (known as a heatpump) on a built-in Bosch which took under 3 minutes for the brand new genuine part to fail – absolute rubbish stuff in my opinion so bad that after another 6 heatpump problems elsewhere I called Bosch &Co dishwasher repairs a day – and then all makes a day – and just concentrated on w/chs of any make.
I`ve had J lewis d/washers fall to pieces, Zannusis and AEG do the same.
On the other hand the humble Indesit d/w well known for not being a rousing success can last years – I used to live in hard water N.Reading dishwasherless and very much anti dishwashers myself but moved to softish water S.Shropshire (one of my better ideas for many reasons) and an Indesit freestanding d/w came with the house and so far hasn`t been a problem (without tempting fate!) and yes, it is usually the heater that fail on those too and sometimes the motors – I would not recommend Indesit nor Hotpoint nor Miele either the latter based on cost of parts and Miele`s fleecing repair costs should, and it will, go wrong.
I think a lot of d/w problems is that far too many people rely soley on the all in one tablets in medium to hard water areas and come a cropper because they do not also use salt in the softener unit and because of that they are a sitting duck for future problems – in my experiece no one ever descales their dishwashers either but they might use a cleaner to be fair but they are not the same things.
I think the problem of domestic appliances, especially d/ws, is after 40 years (and so having experience on 50+ year old Colston stuff which were fairly reliable but that was because most tended to be on maintenance contracts a point no one ever mentions) in this capper my conclusion is they are nothing but trouble or folk are just somewhat careless with them (mind you you can say the same about washing machines) more likely it is both add that to machines that have a multitude of unnecessary gimmicks (especially including fridges) and you`re on the road to problems no matter what or where it is made makes no odds as does the purchase price.Get the proper model number top of inner door frame and go on Bosch spares site and look it up . The vast majority will mean a new drum spider only comes with a drum as one unit. So, as pointed out, not cheap.
Well you can drill all the holes you like but you are still stuck with a ticking noise that you are stuck with.. The trouble is the thread at the bottom of each suspension leg is not very long so gluing a washer over the cracks or more ideally tig welded could work but you would not have many threads to play with and the threads with the nut relative to the depth between terra firma and the nut could/ might mean when you push the west European contraption back in that it now rips the lino or scratches the wooden floor.with less than happy results. The too brittle metal is the problem no matter which way you look at the problem.
Over stretched / worn belt chattering on the drum pulley wheel – fairly common noise. If you replace the belt all should be well. Beit should be 6pje1255 Bosch part number 00439490 more commonly listed as 439490 near 17 quid+p.p. The conitect or hutchinson belts are the same as this genuine one but at half the price.1225 is the length, 6 is the number of ribs and el or e stands for elasticasted and J is the pitch of the ribs as opposed to a fine rib which is H. So you want J pitch. Hope this helps.
I`d check the under the sink nozzle if plumbed out that way before doing anything- Unscrew the fitting quite common that matey boy plumber forget to remove the blue nozzle bung or with some do not cut off the the nozzle blank and just drill a couple of pathetic holes instead.
Blimey! Just one really simple question to you. How is the outlet / drain hose plumbed out? Is it down a down pipe OR is it to a below the worktop sink nozzle? If the former double check that the drain hose is not so far down the stand pipe that it reaches the U bend: if it does you get syphoning which can be slow or more obviously fast (could be either) would/could give you a seemingly pressure swt/ inlet valve / or refilling the machine scenario you describe; SO just raise the machines drain hose so it fits roughly 8 to 12″ down the stand pipe preferably with a stirrup U hook thing that`ll stop, God forebid, the bloody hose dislodging and parting company with the stand pipe with a flood when your back is turned which I can assure you that happens.
The only 2 other things that comes to mind is a A) one of those strange heater earthing problems. You could try putting the machine on a cold wash and see what, if anything, improves the situation and if so then change the heater (if you just take the wires off you`re likely to get a fault code). I doubt it will be this.
B) I have checked for your model so check the breather hose which would be 7 to 9″ concertener black hose that goes from the rear or the side of the soap box to the top of the tank – if that gets blocked-up you get a vacuum withinn the tank/drum which causes all sorts of wierd and wonderful faults to do with pressure swt and valve problems (strange but it does!!) – make sure you check this properly like remove it off the tank because I once had the hose feeling clear but there was a thin film of yukk right across the tank hole it fits into!!.
Other than these I cannot think of anything else. The input noise filter it will not be.
Best of luck.[h=1]Haier HW80-B16939.[/h] Well did you get this one `cause out of stock now 30/04/2025. If you did what do you think of it so far?
Are Haier decent? Not sure now but were sparse on spares – might have changed, equally might not have?There are some for around £330 and that’s with promotional 5 year warranty. MODEL NUMBER PLEASE would be good AND RETAILER even better.
EDIT: just spotted direct motion motor, so brushless? Yes like some LG`s and some Samsungs – there is direct motion i.e. with no belt and just inverter brushless with a belt plus and minuses to both but I`d go for the latter (the one with the belt).Which in power tools (battery ones at least) is considered better, but think there are posts on this forum less keen. Obviously more expensive than belt to fix if it goes wrong- could be probably would be.
Thanks for the input. I have a post on the buying advice thread, separate to this. Interestingly Bosch is recommended on there, so food for thought: JUST my opinion based on sealed tank unit. I also didn’t realise Miele was part of the Vestel thing now; thought they were still independent (based on nothing more than assumption) I never said they were! And they are not anything, as far as is known, got anything to do with Miele.
Interesting point about auto-dosing as well; didn’t even know it was a thing until looking at new machines. For the past 13 years I’ve just put detergent into a cap and popped it in the drum with the wash and had no real issues with that: Good, so so carry on as you are doing. A few times a bit too much detergent on a hotter wash, which results in excess foam. So the mop up job and learn to put less in next time: Yep reckon most follks have done that sometime.
I’ve seen new ones that show you can install a mobile app, scan a QR code on the detergent etc. I would like to see some data on what I gain vs putting dose in cap in drum: No idea apart from it is crazy. That’s a lot of extra complexity in the washing workflow: Sure would be for no real world gain.
Turning it off and back on will not change the programme from memory. Have a look at your instruction booklet to cancel the original programme. If successful the new programme you choose starts off with the drain pump pumping if it doesn`t the drain pump is duff hence the problem.
PS. Disconnect the heater wires and try the machine on Rinses that way you should avoid the machine sensing the wires have been unplugged
