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CORRECTION. The E7 fault was nothing to do with a change of programme as described as it was wires broken in the loom where the loom is anchored to the tank- the wiring is not really long enough to cater for the side to side motion of the tank – in other words 2 wires were breaking and one had, one of the thermistor wires hence E7.
Could you do me a favour and correct this and transfer the information over to the known error codes please.
Thanks for doing my spelling, I type with one bent index finger ravaged by arthritis and hit the wrong keys these days and sometimes I do not proof read as I should.“I do laugh when people talk about the cost of repairing a washing machine and up to their eyeballs in debt for a car……The PCP generation. The same people will go out and buy a brand new washing machine without even considering repairing the old one.” Ahh that`ll be the same folks who`ll argue the toss over 20p can of baked beans verses some other brand of baked beans for hours on end but will freely buy that brand new car on HP with next to zero research that can devalue by 2/3rds within 3 years and not blink an eye lid mainly because they cannot work it out their horrendous loses, or do realize that after the event but change the subject to the weather if ever mentioned..
“I wish we had washing machines that were mechanically controlled with no electronic boards. Back to the mechanical timer, the Motor and pump were AC powered directly with no electronics, no DC brushes to wear out. And no driver electronics, inverters etc. So incredibly simple.” I see your point but most of those only span up to 600 spin there was of course the Candy with the CVD clutch type motor and sprung drum pulley that opened to get a differing ratio up to 800 spin, and there was an Indesit w/m, the 2449 (confusingly there were 2 2449`s as only Indesit knows how – completely different machines!) which had a pivoting induction motor which when the clutch raised up to change the ratio triggering a switch – there was also a ballast heater under the top weight as well , can`t really remember too much as too long ago for me to remember it all now. Anyway 1000 rpm out of that one with the aluminium clutch – the plastic 800 version was dreadful loads of clutch and V belt problems plastic and belts are not a good idea least for clutches.
Electomechanical timers: AKO timers were the best as fitted to Zanussis and AEG and other then machines such as Hotpoint 8 series. Vast majority were ETN`s as fitted to the likes of Powerhouse Electras and loads of others- they were ok. Indesit made their own, not quite as good but not that bad. Then there were Crouzets(?) as fitted to Hoovers and there were 2 main types completely different from each other. These you could change the timer cam motors with a bit of luck and the other later type (also fitted to some Indesit late 1980`s machines e.g the 823 825 etc….where you could remove the side plates. Other than the Hoover type officially you could not get any replaceable parts for the timers.
I see your point and yes you do make some good observations (my rose tinted glasses have just slipped off!) but like Electrofix points out 1200/1400 out of a normal induction motor was not going to happen even with a wretched pcb. The trouble is (nearly) everyone likes 1200/1400+ spins if you had only an 800 spin jobby it`ll cost a fortune in extra time drying your undies throughout winter.
Overall these inverter motored machines are not bad what can let them down is the wiring looms are too short to allow for the side to side movement on wash and pre-spin as I discovered last night 22/12/25 with my TCL – 2 wires broken in the heater / thermistor loom. There`s always got to be something that could be better, always something cheapened some how some where!
Merry Xmas.Great news well done. “people love to throw away stuff now that’s fixable it’s unreal” I know they do, it is as though they`ve got money to burn, just too scared to touch stuff they are unfamiliar with (which will most likely everything), can`t be bothered and buy a new one. Last time I was down the tip with some scrap steel there was a 7 to 9 year old Miele that had bit the dust, mind you at Miele repair prices that never surprises me!
Chinese tat as you put it is no different to most EU tat since most parts fitted to EU tat is chinese made tat….as you should know only too well.
You`ll probably find the door seal has been superceeded and if so instead of the flat door seal to tank bank the new one is now a wire instead. If I`m right I`m not sure whether this new wire comes with the new type of door seal….that of course would be sensible and this is the domestic appliance trade where there is little or no sense.
A new build house and a new used before machine. Irrespective of what F12 saus it is the most common problem in any new build house is the tap turn off or if it did fill the bung (usually light ble colour within the nozzle) not removed or not sawn off waste nozzle.
What`s the sympton of your fault i.e. why do you think it is the pcboard? Or are you dead sure it is the board.
And yes the pcboards have to be the correct one: near enough will not do!!Do you mean the tank unit is bouncing around or the drum is bouncing about as in it is loose relative to the tank? Sounds like to me the problem is a cracked spider arm (the drum / bearing spider that supports the drum) hence the racket – a quick spin of the drum by hand proves nothing if it is that and if it is that the drum drops (rather like a buckled bicycle wheel looked at set horizontally) and the drum cuts the heater = takes out the trip. I do not necessarily think that this is your problem but it could be. There are 3 arms to the aluminium alloy spider that you cannot see neither can you replace it because the plastic tank should be a sealed jobby but to prove a point: when you peer into the tank each paddle would line up with each spider arm, put one paddle at 6 o/clock and your hand on lip of the front of the drum and t`other hand at 12o/clock and see if you get a pronounced movement for each paddle position. Obviously the whole TANK unit is going to move when you do this cause of the top tank springs but you are looking for movement between the drum and in relation to the tank.
Another problem is a chaffing tumble dryer heater too so you want to see it that is loose within the t/dryer manifold – the aluminium heater “box” housing in other words and if it is from memory you have to replace the whole of that unit not just the t/dyer heater which is not available as a separate part – but that is from memory so could be wrong and you can..Most likely just the handle at fault(?) as the plastic moulding breaks around the striker. Based on a WIS28440GB/06 version because you do not say.Well, by the line diagram of the door, the door handle and its striker is listed separately as part 00704287 BUT this is really a complete door at £197.98, outrageous. Hmm, somewhat confusing, if you were to look the complete door up as part 00704285 it is £205.46……Gulp! So if your flimsy door handle breaks this is how much it`ll cost you as a DIY. I phoned up Bosch to get clarification IN CASE OF A MISTAKE, there is no mistake and so the door handle you cannot buy as a separate part as the door is sealed apparantly.
This is a becoming a typical C21st Capitalistic ridiculous (and so caught by the short ones) rip off, a discusting state of affairs. And so the answer is: do not buy a Bosch as my honest opinion! OR if possible, you look and research how much the parts are listed BEFORE you buy one (recommended for any potential Miele owners too) and I cannot stress this point more whether a Bosch or any other make; the world is full of nasty surprises and this example is just another one of them.AEG and Zanussi double water inlet solenoids have, in my experience, commonly fail or rather only 1/4 work on one of the two solenoids so the water can only be little more than trickle = the machine then times out = E10; the resistance in the solenoid in such cases bares no relationship as it is a “mechanical” failure. BUT can also be a lime blockage on one of the two jet nozzles at the rear of the soap box.
There are 23 versions of a L76475FL I just picked 91453093903 version so you check on AEG own spares site using your machine`s PNC code as written off the cabinet label
Line drawing valve ref 507 part number 8588074876497 @ a bowel trembling £59.
Soap box double nozzle (called a conveyor pipe union) line drawing 853 part number 1325021101 @ a more respectful £5.50Of course at 59 quid you want to make sure as much as you can that that is your problem which at a guess it will be. If the nozzle is blocked I never replaced that part as too much hassle and so I disconnected the 2 black hoses off the valve end and raised each pipe up one at a time and ran Kilrock descaler through each hose so it ran into the soap box- use one of those small plastic funnels as you do not want to get this stuff on your fingers and also beware of the stuff flicking out the pipe and into your eyes = really bad news that one so be warned. Allow 5 minutes to go by and then reconnect to the valve nozzles. From memoery the 2 valve`s nozzles are 2 different sizes so impossibe to misfit the rubber hoses back to the respective valve nozzles.
Most eco bubble contraptions have a 6 to 8″ concertina black rubber tank breather hose from the soap box to the top of the tank. This hose can get blocked by a thin “skin” of deposit across the hole where this hose connects to the tank – remove the breather hose to check that out and make sure you refit it properly. What happens is the tank fills with H2O but forms a vacuum inside the tank unit of which can cause the i/let valves to switch off prematurely via the pressure switch which gives you the impression the pressure switch is at fault when it isn`t..
You can sometimes get the same effect occuring if the air trap ( the chamber at bottom of the thin pressure switch hose) is part blocked too though it is much more common that you`d get an overfill i.e. the opposite of unfilling = a potential feet wetting flood!.
Just a general note: quite common that the pressure switch hose get a pin prick hole about 4mm away from where it is fitted to the pressure switch`s nozzle- this causes an overfill.
You`re over thinking this! To answer the question about a litre in the drum with all 4 feet on terra firma.
What you need to do is to remove the black sump hose off the tank via undoing the 7mm clip screw BUT before you do that I always got a marker pen and drew a line on the rubber to the plastic tank so you refit as it was. If you unscrew the clip and pull the hose off you`ll see the ping pong ball in the rubber hose and so long as nothing is lying ontop of it such as a colour catcher, bit of old sock…whatever? If you do not see anything you`ll need to stick your finger into the tank`s sump hose hole to make sure nothing is lying/trapped in the heater which from failing memory goes over the sump hose hole and so should you get a colour catcher that is where it ends up OR if luckier it lyes on top of the ping pong ball. This is the most commom place for no pump out/poor pump out on this machine other than a failed pump. Looking at the pump you have its part number for the model you state is 00146083 £39.25 from Bosch and has a light blue coloured filter handle. Your outlet hose is the type that is a push nozzle fit via an oil sealso no clip on that hose. Just double check there is not a 5p coin that hasn`t blocked it plus try to avoid taking off the drain hose off the pump as it is not overly easy to do that nor to refit it, but if a new drain hose is needed part number is 11017238 @ £7.39 which is surprisingly cheap from Bosch. See https://www.bosch-home.co.uk/sparepartslist/WAN24001GB/19“On a side note, if I do take the option to replace I’ve narrowed it down to Bosch or LG (my budget). Are they good and if so, which would be better overall? Appreciate the help.” For after sales spare parts and general reliability Bosch. Lg are good machines, in some respects a better machine than Bosch BUT at the whims of Korean management parts supply could, and sometimes do, go obsolete prematurely (or say they are) at the drop of a hat.
As for your AEG from what you say I reckon the spider is cracked (spinning a brick noise!) and if so that is unavailable as is the s/steel drum. The rear tank which comes with the bearings and oil seal prefitted…..obsolete too. And so you are now down to 1 bearing listed (which is over priced), the pulley bolt, the spider to drum bolt/s, the blue tank seal and the oil seal (over priced). To be brutally honest I wouldn`t bother with it, 18 years is a good innings.
Because crystal balls are notoriously renowned for being hopeless I find it very difficult to recommend any brand even incl Miele of which I would certainly never recommend. I`m not overly convinced that any brand/make are much cop these days but then I`m a proud pessimist of over 40 years in the trade as a repair tech until I retired. I think weighing -up all the variables: cost, spares availability, cost of parts (never cheap, some are just more reasonable compared with others and Bosch parts there is no rhyme or reason as to the price of spares of which some are over priced IMO), under warranty claims, general reliability, and not least how effective at washing clothes(!) Bosch are very popular although I never bought one (on historical grounds which I will not go into, same reasons that I will not buy Japanese stuff) so my washing machine is Chinese: TCL make, 300 ish quid, 2 years warranty, FF series, 8kg 1400 top spin on certain programmes, pretty simple, easy to work on, reasonably made as far as these things go with the disadvantage of, least presently, quite expensive parts if ever required from one source but it is only 2.6 years old so time will tell but I did have to dismantle the tank to grease the oil seal (actually I bought 2 new oil seals just in case but not from Fixpart at 24 quid +p.p EACH but directly from China = 2 of them for 8 quid incl postage! But did not use but no doubt will in years to come AND this is a common failing on so many makes including sealed tanked contraptions of which you cannot grease, change bearings get at the drum so you`d be well a truly stuffed and in for an expensive repair of which, BTW, most Bosch will be sealed tanked whilst Lg are dismantleable tanks) whilst under warranty which I did myself so TCL warranty service I have no idea how good or bad that would`ve been but at a guess more the latter than the former. Internally my TCL looks somewhat similar to an older Lg (belt driven models not direct drive); I`m happy with the thing; gets a lot of use. If I did have the money, or was brave enough, I might have gone for an EBAC made in UK 7 year parts and labour warranty, last I heard at around 700 quid but that is pushing the boat out for me.Can`t find your model listed on Partmaster Spares so probably a middle Eastern model which would not be listed in UK, looks as though still for sale so a current model which means surely your machine under warranty still…?. Anyway, irrespective of that, sounds like dry rubber door seal on s/steel if so a door seal problem, least that what it sounds like. When wet the sound might go away but it returns on spin as the water is boiled off due to friction. If however, the spider has cracked they usually make a very loud knocking noise – like a jack hammer when on spin (spinning a brick noise!!) and typically you`d get rubber friction dust in the door seal and a friction burning smell. Might not be the drum but the actual plastic tank bearing tube housing- without dismantling the contraption that is going to be impossible to prove and even when dismantled not easy either. When you revolved the drum in the video the drum itself did not look warped which means that the drum spider support may be ok but like all these things it is difficult to tell. If your machine is belt driven check the belt before going any further and its pulley for tightness and movement / noise due to wear i.e. the bolt may be tight but the pulley is loose on the shaft causing the belt to rise up so on part pulley and rubbing on back of tub.
