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Probably the spider (drum support) has cracked rather than the bearings. The drum which came with the spider is now obsolete. If it was the bearings that had failed it officially was a new rear half of the tank unit which is also obsolete. Unofficially you could just change the bearings though you `d have to be careful that the shaft and hub ring was not chewed up and used 6205 and 6204 bearings using oil seal 35x56x10 Haier (the Chinese company that made it) part number 0020300441.
And yes they were wonderfully reliable, surprised yours` is 13 years old most should and are older than that. They, and the very similar Haus model, were very reliable well made made machines. Though at the time especially on Uk Whitegoods they were poo poo`d as being Chinese junk which was more to do with protectionism of repair industry (`cause they were cheap so could not charge big money to repair) rather than true facts – typical of some of the blokes on this site at the time who just repeated the mantre without ever working on one!!.
And so it has had its day. What to replace it with is the next question based that I will be out of date since I retired some years ago. Makes to avoid IMO: Turkish made Beko although I always found the simpler Chinese made Beko 6kg entry level machines very reliable machines. I would avoid Bosch, Siemens, Neff, Amica, all the Turkish Vestel machine brands, Hotpoint, Indesit, Miele, Hoover, Candy. So perhaps have a look at the Curry`s logic series, TCL FF series or Teknix (the latter 2 are more or less the same machines not necessarily the same prices). The TCL, circ 300 quid or less has a tank you can dismantle (because I have one) the Teknix I presume is the same. Just some comments take them with a pinch of salt have a good look see at what is on offer, you do not need to spend a fortune BUT I doubt whatever you buy will be as long lasting as what you had. Haiers btw are expense bits of kit these days but without much of a spares back up. Zanussi are reasonable machines though they have sealed tanks except the Thailand made machines. And have a look at Hisense series 3 very similar to a TCL.
Keep away from auto dose machines if you value your sanity.May the Revoluntionary Shining Path force be with you.
Well done. Thought I might have been wrong with the door seal bit suggestion and only mentioned the Gorenje part as that was the only one I could find under that part number of some company that they say it is in stock so presumed (most unlike me) that it was a Slovenian made jobby when it isn`t. Thx for putting me right..Hope e-max can fix his machine, not an inexpensive make that you usually ditch!
looks like your machine was made in Slovenia by Gorenje under part number GRJ268551= tank seal, odd that failed check the door seal for hole/s first.
Try here https://spares4gorenje.co.uk/hisense-gorenje-sealing-materials-268551-sealing-strip-front-gable-wm7/126791Bearing failure in general. This is for the above and anyone in the future who stumbles on this topic.
If the machine, bearing wise, has failing bearings = your typical light off key slight rumble noise that is the time to take the thing to bits and change the bearings. The bearings are all marked / coded so you know what sizes to get as is the oil seal. If you thrash the machine you will most likely trash it and so when the drum starts to droop, feels loose, grinding noises and possible the belt falls off you will have left it too late: the bearings especially the larger of the two i.e. the front bearing disinergrates into shrapnel = the outer race is usually nigh on impossible to knock out because there is simply nothing to hit! The outer race is usually in the same plain as the bearing tube. PLUS because the bearing is in shrapnel mode it will damage the bearing spider aluminium drum support`s oil seal ring hub; chews it up. So you would now need 2 bearings, 1 oil seal, and the spider. On many machines that spider only comes with a new drum. Add all that up it is expensive. Add all that up and pay someone to do it for you it`ll be very expensive. The latter condition is usually how a repair tech finds the machine i.e. to put it bluntly, well knackered!!. Best bet is to scrap the blighter. The cheapest machine where you can get the bearings separate from a whole rear tank and a new drum with a new spider is a Currys Logik but it`ll still be fairly expensive unless you can do the job yourself
Also these days a great many drums/tank come as a seal unit where you cannot change bearings nor the spider even if you wanted to, a sealed tank could range from just less than 200 quid to 350 to the 400s and something.
So at the best drum bearing changes are only POSSIIBLY feasible if you have the experience and so no how to do the job as a DIY and /or caught the machine very early in its bearing demise beginnings so long as the tank unit is not sealed.
Lastly the other point is when a machine is on the spin cycle and you have a horrendous loud knocking noise (check the concrete weights first) which sounds like you are spinning a house brick and what looks like a warped drum both that suddenly occur out of the blue and that is one or two legs of the spider rotted away and so fractured. Purely academic of course usually snowballs to being a scrap machine based on costs: so you are back to a new spider or drum complete and best change the oil seal too and maybe maybe not the bearings too.If you want to have the bearing option on your next new machine here are some makes that give that option: Lg, Samsung, Curry`s Logik both the Chinese made and Turkish versions, some Siemens, some Bosch and most Neff but the parts t`aint cheap on those last 3. The more expensive Miele – parts… err….are not cheap. Their entry level circ 600/700 quid machine has a sealed tank – God knows how much that would be. So it basically boils down to new machines where you can change bearings being Korean, most Chinese, and Turkish Vestel made stuff e.g. Electra (got nothing to do with Beko). Hoover and Candy are Chinese made BUT they have sealed tanks as do Beko, Hotpoint, Indesit, Zanussi, Electrolux, AEG, Whirlpool, Maytag f/loaders as of 2023 when I retired. Things might have changed since but I doubt it. This is a big subject so I`ve just generalized the issue here and all machines are based on their model and serial numbers.
For those makes pre say before 2002 most of those machines had dismantlable tanks so were fixable that makes them now circ 23 years old – there are still some out there at that age today, whether you can still get the parts is a different question!Thanks Don. Well hopefully he has sussed it and it was the just the sump / heatpump.Fingers crossed.
Anyway the info is here if anyone should stumble upon it.The sump usually warp relative to the tank base and it is a faff to do. I had a look on the Bosch spares site to try to suss out the tank but although there is a picture, as in the diagram, the tank is not a listed part so I`ll ask you since you are there! So the question is when you open the door and remove the lower basket is the plastic filter as one unit fitted into a base of the tank that is plastic or is the tank base s/steel?
If the tank base is plastic this is what can happen which is mega common = E15 flood mode: looking at the front of the machine the r/h/side where the s/steel goal post part of the tank comes down to imbed itself into the plastic tank`s base. That plastic tank area warps allowing water to splash over the top of that pcb protection sheet. It is all very sometimes it will, sometimes it will not. There is a repair kit consisting of 2 metal bars to push the warped area straight and to keep it straight.
The sump warping is fairly common but can be a real bitch when it happens.
All I`m pointing out are two, we`ll say, common faults that will cause the UNDER base to flood. Usually if it is a sump flood it happens very quickly as in 1 to 3 minutes. The side warpage issue usually takes say 12 washes to cause a problem but it all varies.
“to get one E code might be considered a misfortune but to get two looks like carelessness”. Very good!! With a Bosch dishwasher they sometimes come in 3`s.
Just so you are kinda forwarned my record is an infamous just under 3 mins that a brand new heat pump lasted until the heater went pop and there was no leaks dripping nothing like that. So hold on to your receipt for the heatpump just in case.Only you will know what you need to get but the idea is to do the job all in one session so you do not need to keep taking the contraption to bits all the time.
Front bearings and front felt strip is part of this bearing kit C00307120 BUT that kit does not come with the square bearings bracket (typical domestic appliance trade!) which if ground down you will need. My last post suggested part number of that kit with the bracket but without the front felt seal nor the 4 front plastic bearing pads has already been given as C00095655.. If you want to buy the 4 plastic bearing pads part C00095534 these are around £9.35 EACH (a rip off) but you might be able to find those cheaper so have a look at C00255284 4 front bearing pads at £4.95 and see if they are correct
The rear spongy foam seal: well this gets complcated: they fitted 2 different types because there were two different drums used at various production times. Best thing is to measure how deep the old one is – there was a 16mm part number C00258640 and the earlier 26mm one C00113823 although UK whitegoods are not flogging parts anymore you can still type in your model number and you get a measly 8 or so parts come up of which it goes into more detail based on serial numbers, to be frank measuring what you have is easier but that is up to you.
Belt is a 7 rib 1860mm length phe part number C00095658 or use Quatlex part POL74. Should cost you circ £5 to 10 quid. If or when you fit the belt it will droop under the drum by about 1″ to 2″ but it will stretch and that is how it is. Your mission, if indeed you accept it, is to pull that belt down to get it under the motor shaft. Since it is the 7 rip jobby it`ll be a bit easier to do, a long screwdriver helps as a lever just do not bugger up the new belt!Anti static piece of copper contact strip part number C00199479 either use all powers of Cuban Marxist training (as I do) and so make one or buy one, there is one on e-bay uk at 12 quid.
The outer cover seal – God knows what they are refering to. Could be the felt seal that is for the front drum support part number ?Best places to buy stuff from will be via Ebay because the stuff is free delivery. E-bay Qualtex spares outlet is LM Electrical or A Spares so have a look there. General Note all the parts beginning with a C or a J are the genuine parts, other suppliers like Ransoms use their own part number system as do most other part suppliers making for exciting times. Compatible means it is a pattern part of which quality can be variable. Suggest you work out what you want and go to search mode. I`ve done my best here so it is up to you to check everything. For all I know I could be completely wrong and you might even have a tear drop bearing set up though it all points to being the square bearing kit. Best of luck.
PS whist you have the machine in bits you might also want to replace the belt whilst you are at it. You can get those from the same supplier:Hutchinson or Contitech brands are just fine – made in Europe. The size of the belt will be on the old belt together with the rib guage which from memory will be H and the number of ribs which could be 7 to 9. 7 rib belt is easier to fit to the motor spindel than a 9. In the trade we use a special lever fitting tool and without the tool the belt can be a bitch to fit so take note esp the 9 rib.
More likely to be the rear bearing has worn completely out so you have the metal drum shaft grinding away the rear back panel – very common and if that is the case the drum drops = the belt does not grip the drum properly too. If so you will need a new spindel kit and you`ll need a rivet gun too and an electric drill to drill off the rivet heads. Your model should be fitted with the square bearing rather than the tear drop one. I should have a look before you order anything to make sure. I looked this up on Ransom spares site so the kit is RS4853 (that is their part code) @ £10.55. the Hotpoint part number is C00095655. Make sure if this is the problem that you use all the parts in the kit. They usually have a piece of paper included with instructions. Not difficult to do just a bit time consuming.
I used to use a box of Aqua Softna descaler which got rid of lime and rubbish immersed within lime. What none of them will sort out is deposits in the water side fill chamber. What make and model have you got?
At a rough guess the under base where the emergency float is has got a puddle of water. If so the drain pump continues to run because a component has caused a leak or the pressure switch has failed or blocked (the part that controls the incoming water) or could be that the wash motor did not start as it was filling up and over filled that way.
I`m not the greates d/washer guru on this site but some stuff to check and hopefully someone else will answer who is more experienced on AEG answers. See the AEG spares web page for your machine: https://shop.aeg.co.uk/search?text=91151403602Melody Johnstone. Would you please stop writing nonsense as a ruse to advertising this student ” I can`t be bothered to do my own work so I`ll pay someone to do the work on my behalf” money making racket your`re pushing; are you an American? It is the sort of thing they`re famous for pushing. Butt off this forum and go and get a proper job and if so I wish you luck.
Also go and see where you added on to some old post and then posted it under washing machines the other day. I answered it there
Could still be the door latch mechanism* u/s as the micro switch can fail which was fairly common rather than the user pcb** that you also had a look at (btw make sure that 2 white wire connector is pushed on right looks a bit on an angle). When I was working I did have that pcb fail but only on 1 machine from memory. So long as the door loom is ok – have had broken wires before on these things – could even be the main pcb. If you do find it is the MAIN PCB*** (really called the module pcb) then do not order it as it has to be programmed on site via lap top programme via Hotpoint otherwise your machine still will not work and be severely out of pocket. Could also be the mains suppessor filter although that failing is not overly common.
* If so watch your part order as there are 2 (might be more?) which do not interchange but pretty sure yours` is this one via your photo: C00274116 (about 13 quid) every part is all based on the machine`s industrial code a long row of numbers beginning with either 36 or 37 as well as your model number LFT 228 A.
** user pcb (the pcb as per your photo) a typical Hotpoint finger burning £154 apparently
*** module pcb a God forsaken £175.99 fleecing and there are 2 possible boards.
So your machine should be under a 10 years part warranty. If you can get it going for the price of the micro switch door mech do that, if you prove that the loom is ok then if either of those pcb are still suspect it works out cheaper to call out Hotpoint based on the pcb part cost which your warranty covers but the labour isn`t.
Best of luck.This is going to be my usual long winded reply so bear with me. Could be this:
First of all your product code as read off the machine`s label should be 914603301 which you add 00 to the end = ZWD1472W.
Burning smell: fairly common especially if you live in a hard water area. There are 2 pumps fitted to this machine 1) a recirculating pump and 2) the drain pump. What is fairly common with the recirculating pump is a) the pump wears out and does not work or gets jammed b) the pump does work but does not circulate the water from the tank, through a moulded tube to the top of the door seal because that tube gets blocked up and the pump is pumping against a blockage i.e. no jet of water.
What then happens is: because the pump cannot pump the water properly or even at all the recirc pump starts to overheat = smells of heated varnish. If this is so: first thing you do is TURN THE POWER OFF pull the machine out remove the back panel. Looking from the back, towards the left on the base of the machine will be the recirc pump. Usually the pump`s copper coil (its stator) will show signs of heat as the insulating varnish melts and goes bubbly- you can visually see what has happened – if so you want to nip this in the bud there and then by removing both wires to this pump and order a new recirc pump part number: 1321152603. You then have the issue as to why. The recirc tube might be clear or could be blocked up but can be cleaned out with various amounts of hassle and IF it is blocked up you will have no choice but to clean it out because it, as a part, is not available as neither are the rubber grommets so do not lose anything or break it.
If you continue to use the machine with a dodgy recirc pump still wired up the pump windings over heat, then short out which blows a pcb triac on the main pcb = many tears, lots of paper tissues and a big bill = probably writes the whole machine off and so if this is the problem (and it might not be) you are advised to act on it ASAP
