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Hi Paul. 9 times out of 10 it`ll be the motor capacitor that has failed ( common failure point) – the cylindrical shaped component with a couple of wires going to it attached to the motor. From memory, though it will be written on the component, it is a 10uf capacitor. W/Knight original spares probably all gone as company closed down and the name taken over by Turkish company – usual UK self destruction. All you will most likely need is a new capacitor so just check your capacitor to check the uF and search for a good quality one via Ebay should cost you 12 quidish – the cheap Chinese ones are not very good so avoid those! You should only need to remove the rear bottom part of the back cover and screws and the vent pipe`s 2 screws. Obviously POWER OFF and leave for 30 mins to allow the capacitor to discharge should you have tried it just before going to disassemble the machine just in case!.
Could also be the belt frayed or nuked drum support but both doubtful.Yep. Hot water fill (dual fill) washing machines these days are thin on the ground. I know of only one and that is made by EBAC but never actually worked on one so no idea what or how well they perform – think it is mixed review and the one from Which Mag was none to great mainly because they refused to test it on the strong wash apparently….so much therefore for “Witch”.
And yes some machines have done away with the 90 degree programme with a max temperature of 60 which, as you are pointing out, is not hot enough for white cottons so not sure what Chefs are supposed to do or lab technicians all seems rather bizzare to me too but the appliance trade gets caught with somethings in its head for no real logical reasons what-so-ever. Further, the 50 degree wash has disappeared with the exeption of Indesit that I know of. This seems to be very short sighted too as it was a fav programme I used to use on my old Hotpoint WM56. Both points I think just base why on the better performance of the detergent but much more likely to do with dictats from ridiculous state directives for reduced energy usage more like.
Long cycles, oh yes to counter the low pathetic water levels and in most cases the promotion of 30 and 20 degree washing the cycle times have increased, think some of the Bekos have 4 hour wash cycle times but they are no doubt not alone so God knows what washer dryer owners think: could be 4 hours to wash 1 load plus 2 hours trying to dry = 6 hours for one load!! = run the risk of running out of time and picking up a pine box at that rate!. I do suspect some of these manufactures are a spineless bunch where dictats are concerned but perhaps that means they are cheaper to make because of that. I never had much to do with the selling side and when I did that was now decades ago. My newish machine is a TCL model FF0814WCOUK and the cottons wash is up to and including 95 degrees and takes 2hrs 19mins, never used it myself but that is what the digital display says. I think the longest wash prog is the ECO 40-60 at 3hours 38mins compared to the other programmes but it t`aint a dual fill machine and no 50 degree prog. Mixed wash prog up to 40degree a couple of mins over an hour
My TCL machine did have a squeaky oil seal (but then that did not surprise me) so I dismantled the thing whilst under warranty – rather I do it rather than a sulking tech blagg himself out of doing it with an 11 jobs a day sentence – to lube the oil seal = peace and quiet at last and avoiding bearing failure. If I had not done so the bearings would have failed timed to perfection out of its 2 year warranty. My point is you find as I did before I retired, that a rather large number of machines have zero grease on the hub ring / oil seal and that means premature wear = nuked drum bearings having a dismantlable tank gives everyone a fighting chance to repair though of course it`s not the same with a sealed tank – they go too and then you`re well stuffed!Dirtylinen. I do not know the answer either. I should of thought the chassis made in UK but as you suspect I think too that the internals will be made in China.
Dualit toaster. That`s great I`ll tell my one of my mates that he did a good design job on that.A 4 hour cycle, bloody hell!! I`m surprised you don`t pick up your pension or heavens forebid, your pine box waiting for that to finish. That is dreadful. Quicker by 75{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} to do it via kitchen sink at that rate.
I think it might be the oil seal and if so bad luck. OR the top of the springs need greasing hopefully it is the latter.
Since you do not think it is the suspension and you`ve discounted the drum oil seal I suggest you so this: Pull the machine out, remove the back panel and work top. Put the machine on without any clothes on the same programme you know the noise occurs. Let the machine run and get hot them listen out for the noise if it does 1) turn the power OFF,2) turn the drum by hand via the drum pulley – does it still squeak? If yes remove belt, does it still squeak? No, it`ll be the belt, Yes, it`ll be the oil seal. Neither of those things then 3)push up and down from the top of the machine to test out the suspension, does that make a noise? no? or yes? if yes the bottom suspension legs are shot If you can take a good photo of the dampers as thgey fit different ones the ones listed are 66.67 quid each 11047540 via bosch website (utterly scandalous) BUT they might be fitted with a repairable set hence the a photo required. OR the top spring ends might need regreasing – this was fairly common, use car / general purpose grease. There is not much left that would make that noise other than a distorted door seal rubbing on the drum though unlikely as water acts as a “lubricant” so you can discount that one I should think.
I think it might be the oil seal and if so bad luck.Possible: With a non flooded under base. The bubbling sounds is the heater coming on without much or any water in the machine OR the motor is running at 1/5th speed and still points to a duff wash motor which is common on Hotpoint and Indesits (they have several incarnations of this magnetic rotored Askol type motors over the years where the magnet usually spilts though they can fail for other reasons such as jamming due to lime and rubbish build ups since the rotor, magnet et al runs in water – these machines also do not like hard water so do not like working based soley on all in one tablets, so without salt, if hard water applies to you). When I did do dishwasher repairs I had your described fault problem many times. Just check the filter and under the filter before jumping to wrong conclusions as a blockage can cause the same symptoms although it is seldom as easy as that.
To be very frank all this stuff has a rubbish rating! Trouble is everything else has too or it`s just down to just pure luck or the lack of due to using cheap parts (though they are, of course, expensive to buy for what they are!) and very often with a poor design. Buying even a Bosch may not help you just in case you think it will as they have problems (actually quite a few of them) with the heaters come wash motors as one expensive unit failing = they have a C.R.A.P rating too but that is IMO.
Anyway, if diagnosed correctly, your machine should be under a ten year free parts warranty if you registered the purchase because that wash motor for your machine is listed on Hotpoints web site at £154 (a total rip off, at a close guess Hotpoint pay 10 quid a motor) part number C00731573 based on your model information based on a randomly choosen version industrial code number you did not quote, so check this yourself please. I think Hotpoint charge 130 quid labour so in your case it is cheaper than DIY if that`s any consolation.
I have very little faith in any brand of dishwasher and even less, as general info, with especially heatpump tumble dryers (usually nothing but trouble) and no faith in manufacturers..
Best of luck.Not frost free as just looked it up for you. Just a normal old school freezer, but they were usually well made. Does it actually work? If yes, that is great because frost free stuff is a load of trouble and grief, if running but no ice forming that is what he or she meant by “frost free” i.e. lost its refigerant and you`ve been well and truly stitched up like a kipper.
“as these are common culprits in such scenarios” not necessarily my old fruit pastal!
So you used your introduction to the poster`s problem to offer your humble basic advice that you copiued as a ruse to tell the world about College Papers, in other words, you pay someone to do your work for you. Namely outsourcing! Only in USA would this be acceptable; pretty dire state of affairs; truly bad: you`re supposed to do the work and think for yourself not farm it out to some other person! Do that too many times and you learn bugger all and come out knowing bugger all you just look “good” for the amount of debt you accumulated. Ridiculous.should still be under a 10 year parts warranty ( I reckon if you registered the purchase) so get into contact with Hoover if you haven`t already done so. It should not have failed at 3 years old even given the low standards of most C21st products, certainly domestic appliances. If Hoover do not want to know based on what you know or think get in touch with Katie Morley of The Daily Telegraph as a suggestion.
With the machine tilted backwards against a wall, with the door removed AND THE POWER OFF. The way I just to do these is to get a very long screwdriver, stick it through the door lock, then use a mole grip onto the screwdriver shaft between the door seal retaining area and the door lock with the mole grip about 1″ from where it is fitted. This then allows you to have a free pair of hands by also using your lower tummy or thigh to wedge against the s/.driver handle (somewhat inorthodox I know) but it does work. With the spring flipped over the s/driver you should now be able to feed the spring around tne circumference of the door seal. Normally I`d do this anti clockwise but given the smaller gap between the concrete weight and door seal you might want to attempt it clockwise as there will be slightly less tension. And yes they do not make it easy!
Just want to add: I presume it is a pull out condenser? So tread careful there as the information is scarce as with most if not all Bush. Have a look at the instruction booklet and see if it mentions it. It might be a copy of one of the Bosch contraptions that has a condenser but it does not pull out, you have to hoover it out the best you can do.
