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Well, if water poured out when you took the rear cover off that water would`ve gone over the element,air gets blown up over the element and if water was there so would it. Get a hair dryer and dry the element thoughtly and then bung it back together, make sure the suppessor wires have been refitted then try the machine. The pull out the condenser and clean it. Then try to dry a proper load to make sure the pump is puming into the water container. And check the filter is clean.
Any spares you want try this site as it was the only one I came across that do them, expensive but available: https://fixpart.co.uk/tumble-dryer-spare-parts/bush/tdt17cn-5701042540-10810794?page=7This is fairly common. When the pcb blows it tends, as you just found out on replacing your pcb, that will have blown again- normally blows the commutator in the motor or rather its t`other way round. If you are lucky and replace the motor and that pcb for a brand new one again it should be all back to normal BUT there is a slim chance that the user interface pcb might be affected too. Had this a few times (the motor and the bridge pcb) but when you add up the parts it becomes an expensive Beko. I have to say, but this is my own opinion, I never liked this series and there was another where the pcb was inbuilt within an inverter motor and that was a load of grief too. For other folks who might stumble upon this post the only Beko I did like other than the now ancient WMA series – I had one (bought about 2003) is the basic Chinese made Beko. One customer had two machines, the simple Chinese one for the doggy towels (3 dogs) and the posh Bosch for their own undies, need-less-to-say it was the Bosch that screwed up far more than her Beko which suffered from blocked filter – well, whatcha expect with 3 dogs worth of hair? and some fruit and nut broke the door( though God knows how they managed that but they did). A truimph of post revoluntionary Maoist excellence?
Me neither! Why don`t you phone them wiith the the niumber as read off the the thermal fuse and see if they can match it or as close as possible.
well why dont`t you just change the motor o/load fuse since, from what you tell me via your meter reading, it has failed then bung the motor back together again with your new brushes and just see what happens. With armatures that look fine you can mess about with a meter and everthing checks out just dandy but in reality even if everything looks/reads great it can still be the motor` armature at fault – that is very true but if you do not try you won`t know. The only thing you can do is 1) do the motor, 2) check the timer the best you can – your tracks and solder look ok but the relay/s could be stuck but I never had that one before myself, 3) check the wires and tags including the brush female tags and 4) check the pressure switch – on these machines you should hear a click when you blow into it and a click back when the pressure is released- if you hear nothing either way that`ll be your problem that was running in parallel (stranger things have been known) – I doubt this will be the problem, so highly unlikely and 5) although the hotpoint parts break down does not show a wiring loom fuse holder to the motor check to see just in case, as Dave suggested – if the loom were to have one it would be within a bundle of wires running next to the programmer area in a black plastic holder from memory and also from dodgy memory I think that was only fitted to the top range all singing and dancing microproccessor model.
So what it boils down to is either the a)motor is duff, b)the programmer is duff or c)the wires are dodgy, or d)the pressure switch is iffy as a remote possible problem. So then if c and d are fine that leaves the 2 most expensive parts: a) we can agree on that the motor o/load fuse appears to be duff and b) the programmer might be but it is very doubtful so that leaves a) so change the motor fuse and if you are lucky it might work and if not you can`t get a new armature (well, not as far as I know), the 95 series armature even if available won`t fit, on the plus side: you can buy an expensive new motor, you might be able to get a decent s/hand motor either the original as you have (or a s/hand FHP type) but other than those last 2 options that is it. All I can tell you is based on my own experience is that when the motor fuse pops only once did I bypass an o/load fuse (Anyone else reading this: this was just to try, if you like as an experiment – you never ever do this whether it turns out working or not working and just leave it that way) and that did not cure the motor so it was put down to being an armature fault, a brand new motor was bought and fitted (always with fingers crossed because you never know 100{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d}) and then the machine worked just fine, problem solved……………………until just after, say about 8 months later I recall the bearings wore out and drum spider cracked and so they scrapped it – take note, that bit I do remember. Their crystal ball was just as useless as mine! All other future motor fuse o/load failures I just bought new motors from there on to save wasting my time, it wasn`t that common so I reckon say, maybe 5 altogether as some just scrapped the machine based on cost V age; suppose I could say the same for Bosch models too.“Scorched plastic tab cover historical from years ago”. Yep most did that the tags were not up to the amps.
Looks as though your t/fuse is duff.
Don`t know too much on electronic components but would of thought 130 degrees centigrade would be fine. The tape I would use is heat shink but let it naturally heat shink on its own accord. Armature more likely cause of the failure. Best bet is to replace the thermal fuse then test the machine under no load, if it works then try with wet load. I suspect the motor will not work because of a duff armature but of course I could be wrong. I have had a fair number of these in the past that had duff armatures (as well as the usual naff brushes and even brushes that were surprisingly still ok) even though the commutator looked visually ok it wasn`t. Just to make you aware, should temptation or desperation beckon, that the look a like Hotpoint 95 series (the series just before your WM series) motor`s replacement armature (which was a pattern part) that you might still be able to get will not interchange with the WM series. The WM series new replacement motor is now completely different to what you have fitted – now replaced by a FHP motor (which is the one I intitially thought you might have had) part number C00118057 (J00121704) £134.99 comes with mounting bolts based on Hotpoints website based on WM63PS – check your machine`s ratings label . If you do not want to go to the expense of this new replacement motor (and I personally wouldn`t but you might) an e-bay second hand motor may well be your best bet (if you can get the original one) BUT make sure it is for the exact same model you have – they were not all the same they just looked the same; I think you`ll struggle to find one to be honest but worth looking.And the motor that was 400 odd quid got susperceeded to one costing 212.39 (919535).
Yes have a think about it and if you feel your`re not up to it (I know that feeling only too well) then I suppose it`ll be Miele again.
Fingers X`d you don`t get anymore trouble with the thing so best of luck because they are apt to start snowballing into a world of hurt if you get unlucky (let`s hope not the thought of giving the likes of Miele – and Bosch and Siemens – anything would make my blood boil) but you do not hear too much about that when they do: folk tend, and I understand why, to be a bit coy on the subject.
I have no idea what this Silikon seal is either but at a guess probably an anti mould or grease / petrol proof but not sure that is just a pure guess I never worked on too many Miele and now I don`t work on anything much-gave up due to Covid = lack of work and retired (one of my better ideas!!).https://fixpart.co.uk/washing-machine-spare-parts/miele/wda210-wda-210-wpm?page=7 This is the pattern part version of your door seal £35 and something.
The plot thickens! Mieles own site has several alternatives and yes one of those is £299.59 (646168) and another is £336.60 (646165) but you cannot order that online but you can order a door seal from them at £62.80 (657942). Someone it seems has told you half the info unless I`m reading it wrong as their website is not the best for clarity. Go type in WDA210 WPM and check yourself and click the box with the tank and gubbins line drawing part 35 = door seal gives you several options as far as I can see.“All the wires to the block from the board are white” Yes I know. I meant the wires of the motor`s internal terminal block. Which motor do you have? I presume due to releasing tags you have white plastic brushes C00197976 rather than the “newer” motor which used all black holders with raise ” L ” on each brush. At a guess either a broken wire like where I said or the thermal motor windings fuse has popped. Could have a look at the tracks on the programmer too to see if anything blown….pray that isn`t the case because you will not know whether the motor caused it or not so potentially two expensive bits to change.
Make sure the new brushes have been fitted right and any locking tags have been removed.
You say you cleaned the commutator so what was it like before you cleaned it was it shiny or was it matt black.
Where the brushes worn out rather than worn and if it was a case of just worn how much carbon brush bits were left 1cm`s worth or what AND are both the old brushes got shiny running faces OR one is shiny t`other is a matt black. Did you pull out the motor`s terminal block maybe if you did you want to check the tags. Other thing that it might be is the motors`thermal o/load is shot you`ll need a test meter. If the actual motor`s wiring has two red wires that is for the tacho wires so ignore those. You want to find two other tags that do not read through to any of the others to prove a duff motor. Set you meter on highest ohms setting e.g 20k
Common place for damaged / broken wires to the motor is by or just under where the cable tie is on the chassis side before that loom darts across to the motor..It is a sealed tank. Part number C00285584 listed on Hotpoints UK spares site @ £212.99. You now know what you must do!
Hotpoint wm52 uses programme H as a 30 degree wash. It takes in, from memory hot and cold, and the programme ends in 30 / 35mins. The machine does not heat up on this programme so whatever it fills with it washes with. as for this silk programme never heard about this secret programme unless they are on about the use of the economy programme, think that is a tall tale someone is spinning. It was a flexible machine when used with economy button= out means selected. What this does is cut out the heater so just supposing you use the 1 hour prog F = 50 degrees (when I owned one – WM56 – this was my most commonly used programme but with the economy button not used) with the economy button it`ll fill hot and cold skip the heating cycle and so washes with what it gets from the taps but it really comes into its usefullness on the main wash so for example the 60 degree wash (hot fill only programme) is too hot for your washing but you know that your hot water supply isn`t going to come in at 60 degrees and nuke your beloved undies if economy is selected you get a long wash at say 48 degrees instead of 60 so in other words more or less like prog F but longer and with a faster spin
Commom faults on old WM 52 and the equally common WM56: lower suspension wears and twists the tank so you look – open the door and see if the plain of the tank assembly runs parallel to the chassis front. Lower suspension kit is now really expensive. Top suspension springs break so check that too, although that is cheap to fix. Drum bearings and rotted out spider is a common issue – if you do land yourself with a citrus special, because today everything is great but tomorrow out of blue no isn`t, take the machine to pieces first before buying any replacement parts (TIP IF the drum bearings are just fine leave them alone but you might want to clean then lightly grease the oil seal because what used to happen is that hapless engineer would start knocking out the bearings only for the aluminium bearing housing tube cracks = good bye machine so where only the spider was duff now the whole machine is duff – the pattern bearing spider is ok and so are the drum bearings kit as replacement parts BUT the new spider often comes without the shaft C clip and if so this must be fitted to the new spider. By passed door locks too. Motor brushes worn out – the WM series some have white cartridge brushes and they are well know to wear out fast or split and jam, some machines were fitted with a much better motor made by FHP these were far more successful. Pump issues and of course the drain filter is at the rear of the machine – Hotpoints era of a warped sense of humour!
Since I actually owned a more or less the same machine, I actually installed the thing but when the owner died, I got given it and it was still in good shape until I too passed it over to my house buyer when I moved house in 2023. Verdict: my machine was pretty good after I did the motor change mod to the FHP motor and I still have a fond memory of the contraption but compared to something newer it was noisy, nothing wrong with it, just noisy operation compared to todays stuff and it sometimes threw a noisy banging wobbler with a poorly balanced load despite the lower suspension and chassis being perfect. Spare parts are reasonable over all with pattern parts to keep the thing going but they are old machines now and I reckon the spares supply will dwindle away especially now as Hotpoint merges with Beko. The Wff Bosch series was a better made machine at the time and had a better reputation but parts are not cheap but then you would not expect them to be and worse still there are fewer pattern parts and even fewer pattern parts that are much cop.
With old machines from 25 years ago you might struggle but then you will/ or might not getting a “newer”.machine without a sealed tank – if that fails it is scrap with no chance of a repair.Common issues on a WFF2000 they will be about 25 years old as you say. The pump will be on its last legs, the bigger risk is the drum spider about to fracture as that is obsolete, motor brushes wearing out can be 28 odd quids worth of brushes (or cheap as chips pattern stuff which I do not recommend) BUT could be 76 quids worth if different motor fitted than is usual. Drum bearings via external cast iron spider pretty easy to change. Suspension worn out? Go and look the thing up on Bosch spares own site and check out what is what. Would be handy if you know the version so Wff2000/01 or /whatever
You take on a machine that is that age and expect no problems, well that would be silly Note anything on their spares site that says out of stock really means obsolete . There are a fair few pattern parts but some of those are rubbish making you only to choose genuine parts which can be expensive and therefore high risk e.g spend 8K on an wretched Audi engine rebuild (yep fairly common that one at 50k miles) only to have the bloody g/box fail or an electrical senario 6 months later which would leave any man to cry into 4 boxes of tissues – most have tissue deliveries on constant speed dial and you do not want to be in the same boat with an old washing machine..
Old washing machines maybe classic but unlike cars and bikes are not worth a carrot………or even a parsnip, as few folks are interested in old stuff one jot e.g. the soviet made Siberian 3 twintub might well have been an improvement on a Hoover twin tub (and it was!) but unless you are really into this as a hobbyist and know the right people or/and in this case fluent in written Russian your going to seriously flounder as very few are interested there too as they also are only interested in the lastest piece of modern junk and modern life hussle full of BS. As Soviet times, both the good things (and there were) and bad things fade into a distant history.
If you go to awmronline.com then click onto drum bearings old Andy has done a list of sealed tanks and non sealed tanks brands which is of some use and is more up to date.Well if all 3 elements in the bottom oven do not work it can also be the oven`s over heat stat (a small squareish white stat – NOT the main stat that regulates the temperature via the selector knob nor nectssarily the switch bank) has decided to fail should be part number 140018026140 listed at 24 quid (scandalous robbery!!) with a violet paint marking = 225degrees. Sometimes this stat fails due to boredom(!) other times it fails due to overheating (main stat duff too?) or wires burning off due to rubbish tags i.e. bad connection over time- if you pull both wires off and measure the stat with your meter – if you get continitity = it is ok, if not, its duff. This o/stat should be behind the rear cover from failing memory.
With ordering on the Zanussi uk spares site to make sure you get the right part is all based on the long product number beginning with 9 as read off your ratings label this will then X ref with your model number.There are two versions of your model based on the this 9 number so you double check, I haven`t, on Zanussi site just in case the stat I`m on about is different (probably not but worth checking) or obviously for any othe part that you prove I`m wrong.
Heap big tip: if you have to remove and transfer wires off the switch bank to a new one take a photo of the wires before you do anything.Well spent awhile doing a bit of jiggery pockery and this is what I figure the genuine part number for the metal enamelled tank version door seal is 2300255 which is not the one required and obsolete (x1 is on ebay uk). DBT32 is = to partmaster 1681255pm which is equal to 18sv01 which morphs into 18sv03 = plastic tank version so it looks as though Dave`s dbt32 = the right one for the plastic tank version (obsolete too elsewhere) that Splash has.
