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“I should have got everything while I had the chance” I`ve heard that one before many times over the 40 years.”There seem to be no old washing machines listed either. I’m thinking that during the lockdown, lots of folk had a clearout and scrapped all their old junk!” Your not joking what with a few folks I heard about got Furlough spons thrice over (due to fraud) even the ones who just got it once bought new machines hence the repair work disappeared almost overnight (nice one Richi thanks a million, no self employment grant for me just the usual sod all) hence a lot, me included, just called it a day and retired early muttering obscene comments. Some put their left over parts on Ebay some couldn`t be bothered and it all went down the tip and then was written off on the tax return or kept and then written off on the tax return; the former are the ones dead keen on Green issues BTW!!
Never heard of Rubber Renue. I don`t at a guess think it will not work for you and might even make things worse due to its tactiness on the door glass but of course up to you if you want to have a bash.”The machine will work if I reassemble it as it is albeit with a tiny leak. It is not enough to form a drip but has caused a little rust to appear but I don’t see it standing the test of time” yep you are probably right there but if no seal is now available you might just have to..
Still, wait until Electrofix comes back to you as he might come up with the goods if you hear nothing (as typical C21st) email him or post again to himHi Splash. Well I went to my extensive store room (garden shed) and had a bloody good look for you and I am sorry to tell you that I do not have one. I phoned up Ezze Fit and they have told me that although they list it as out of stock it is in reality obsolete – why not just say unavailable / now obsolete? Looked on Partmaster and 4myServis and your model is not even listed – probably too old. Went and tried Mad Maddocks (18SV01) obsolete. Tried LM Electrical (qualtex online e-bay public shop) and mais non too. Had a look for you on Ebay no dice there either. Hopefully Dave of Electrofix can come up with the goods. I think you are going to struggle with this one to be frank but in the whacky and ridiculous world (and it is, no doubt about it) of domestic appliances that would not surprise me one jot.
“There seem to be 2 types of servis quartz, the older slimline series which had a square metal door just bigger than the porthole in the middle and the 603X (e.g. 6035 ,6036) series (with ‘piano key’ controls) which was more modern with a large metal door taking up the whole width of the machine.”
It boils down to the earley quartz had an enamelled tank and your one should have a plastic tank. The plastic tank`d version had a the door seal as you describe. Your link reveals nothing, least to me.
I too will see if I have one but from memory I suspect not. I will have a look elsewhere for you, might get lucky sometimes.washingmachinewoman. I can see where your`re coming from, never come across that before probably because I left the trade though I have seen some crazy things before. Just looked the pulley up. Who in their right mind designed that in, must be nylon/plastic? Just asking for trouble. Just as bad as nylon drive gears in a petrol lawn mower, a Qualcast I seem to remember, that got chucked by someone and that was not cheap- teeth all sheared off the drive train. I think that is the standard these days, anything to save a quid, it only gets worse as the years trondle by.
Now you tell us that the rear bearing is nuked this allows the belt to go slack so maybe you do not need a capacitor after all. I mean, how the hell did you miss this as it would`ve been squeaking for weeks until it lathed through the rear panel.
This is the achillies heel of the whole series. You have a stretch belt pulling 60lbs downwards with no jockey pulley putting pressure on a phosphor bronze bearing that receives no lubrication..so what the devil did Indesit expect to happen apart from the motor bearings also complaining? Poor design and they were told that years ago but did not take any notice and they never did even when I worked for them for 15 years; useless bugg*rs then and now IMO which is why I lost my temper with them in the end – chased a service director around the warehouse with an induction motor to throw at him-biggest mistake I ever made as I missed the blighter – only joking………it was a hammer! No sense of humour some folks!
The original design used a square shaped fibre bearing (obviously with a round hole!!) with a jockey pulley and that worked just dandy, the next incarnation used a phosphor bronze one with no j/pulley but also a variant used the more common infamous teardrop bearing with no pulley too hence mass confusion – typical Indesit so see the kit here, you want: kit part number C00095655. Suggest you go for ebay item number 14439519221 @ £9.70 which is probably the pattern part or go for the genuine at 14 something or other it makes no odds as they are the same kit in anycase repackaged it is just that the genuine comes with a fitting sheet (or did) of instructions.
You will need a pop rivet gun and an electric drill to take the rivet heads off – do not be tempted sticking a flat bladed screwdiver and prising off the bracket as you will just be bending/distorting metal underneath so not clever. It is easy to do just a bit time consuming circ a mere 30 mins.
As modernish t/dryers go the rest of the contraption is reasonable and well worth doing rather than investing in another, heavens forbid a heatpump model of any make…often they`re just a world of hurt you do not want- more energy efficient maybe, simple and inexpensive to repair they ain`t!What is termed the outlet hose is the hose external of the machine which is still available – grey crinkley hose that goes down the standpipe in other words. part number 00432060 line drawing 115852.
That hose`s other end is connected to an angled nozzle and that is connected to a water chamber-these get blocked-up which is not the issue, the thin little hose sometimes split where it pushes on and leaks on any pump out (and also sometimes gets blocked).
From that plastic chamber there is a thick black hose that goes from there to the pump – those seldom give problems but you never know on old machines. Part number 00272654 line drawing 289645
From the pump to the s/steel tank is the black sump hose containing a large ping pong ball. That hose usually gets a bra wire puncture. That hose is obsolete part 00295610*** line drawing 295610.
From the front soap dispenser we have a gland seal, a plastic pipe and then the tricky to fit but it can be done what is termed the “fill hose” which is obsolete part number 00269513*** line drawing 086314
*** without being too optimistic check on e-bay uk or ebay Germany. However unless a small leak coinciding with the visual leak as you say on pump out I doubt that hose is the problem so you`ve got to turn power off, pull the machine out, remove the back, fill the machine up with a watering can via the soap draw and visually check making sure all safety considerations are taken into account to prove your point as there are no other ways to do this. If you prove it to be the problem you have to take the front panel off to replace that hose. Other things nearby it could be is a split in the door seal maybe a faulty tank seal. Like I say you`ve got to prove it first!“I hate getting new household goods because my experience is that they just don’t last, no matter how much research I do and money I spend.” Too right and you`re not the only one. All the stuff now produced is basically short lived compromised contraptions and in my opinion that would include Miele too (although most would tell you otherwise) and certainly new Bosch. The quality of the WFF series we will never see the likes of again. The previous series was even better.
A bit of testing is the answer probably a bit of luck too. I would be the first to agree to try to get the machine fixed up. Your other non leaking problem just live with it.Could be wearing out drum oil seal/lack of grease this one is fairly common BUT it can go on for a while but then sadly the proof that it is that is when the front bearing goes rumbley. Could be belt – the squeaky noise tends to disappear after it gets a bit warm though no guarantee of that. Give us the complete model number please so we know exactly what model you have rather than relying soley on the model details you have told us – some models are a complete pain to get at the oil seal and some models if the bearings go you are supposed to buy the rear half of the tank which is not inexpensive best bet to tell the difference is to have an empty machine, remove the belt then relve the drum by hand and see if there is a noise or not if not it is either luck, or the belt or poss suspension depending upon what suspesion it has been fitted with. The model number begins with Enr found on a lable top of the inner door frame.
I`m not a fridge engineer (washing machines mostly) and no one has got back to you. Well a capacitor is probably 10 quid so maybe give that a go. But first, if you have a multimeter, set it on the highest OMHS and with both wires disconnected from the capacitor ( in other words out of circuit) test the original one first. A rough guide is meter charges up capacitor a reading is shown and then immediately the reading colapses down to 0 = that is good = it is discharging or you get no reading at all or the reading does not colapse = that is bad. If that is ok could be the compressor relay or ptc starter – no idea how to test that. It is most likely the compessor u/s but that is a guess, I`m not there!. Did have one that was not anything like your model and it was a thermostat. If you go to Partmaster Uk there is a wiring diagram that might help a bit but most parts seem obsolete or a long wait (which with Partmaster can mean its obsolete but their site is not updated!!) . That double phial stat you changed a while back is still available not sure sure about the other stat. Obviously what I would not want to happen is that you spend out and get nowhere.I think the solenoid is for hot gas defosting but could be wrong might want to see if that works too if get atible.If you do look for parts the model number is what you say it is but since the fridge/fzr is listed as a Stoves as well as a LEC you base it also on the 444446145 number according to Partmaster
24/07/24. Ref 27/09/23 post. the new replacement Statesman Fridge that was exchanged. Well the newly exchanged fridge is also freezing up exactly the same as the first one so there is obviously a design problem there or perhaps it is the t/stat after all and both were fitted with the wrong stats which could mean the whole imported lot are.
So I`m now, apart from making myself look like a total jerk – it happens but luckily not that often(
?) no further forward BUT I`m not going to lose sleep over it and continue to defrost the contraption every 5 weeks which, thinking about it, I would`ve had to have done if I`d bought the other version with the ice box which gives me the impression there has been a mix up of stats or perhaps phial sensor lengths not reaching within the liner far enough to control the hidden evaporator pipe work. And so to try to cure this problem because I`m too busy elsewhere juggling my charity volunteering and archaeology stuff to get it exchanged again is to e-mail Statesman and see if there has been a cure for the machine meantime such as like a new stat. Probably will not get much of a reply and if not I`ll update. And if so I`ll replace the stat myself with a Ranco VXO larder stat and see what happens and update that too.Yep I agree most likely the capacitor. the Indesit part number is C00109618 and it is listed on the Indesit spares site at a rip off price £33 (rounded up). if you go on ebay uk and type the part number in they are 37 quid under that number. If you type in: 5uf ducati capacitor (which is the brand indesit fit) and it is just over £10.30. This one should be of a higher quality than a £5 jobby. A great deal of the capacitors out there are Chinese and they are not overly brilliant and some are down right awful but any make can fail when it feels like it.
Very true Dave and have been better built for many years. Question is if the Turks can do it why can`t the Italians and the answer is as you allude to: many parts are now brought in from China, that of course includes Bosch too. Although saying that the rock bottom priced Chinese made Beko I always found to be ok machines. TCL are Chinese and are very similar to a 80 series Samsung I have a 2 year old TCL 1400 spin 8kg and it is a fine machine……until of course it jacks and then I get hammered by the inflated spare parts prices!
PS and if so best to temporarily disconnect the motor brush wires. I`d first check the new motor brushes before messing around welding. Yep I know you said you changed them recently none the less but have had new m/brushes fail by jamming.
Could also be the motor`s pulley is slipping on the motor shaft and if so get the pulley tig welded to the armature.
Chaffed and broken wire next to the front concrete weight under the machine. Check that area first. These machines were famed for rubbed wires on the weight. Whilst you`ve maybe got the worktop off you might also want to push down on the top weight to check the bottom suspension isn`t nuked because at the age these machines are now I would not be at all surprised, so we could have worn out suspension = excessive movement of tank = concrete weight chaffing wire/s note: even regardless of whether susp is worn out or not too. Holding the button in is just bypassing the break in the wire.
It was more the WM series that took out the its door lock that took out the programmer rather than the WMA.
