Forum Replies Created
-
Posts
-
https://www.ransomspares.co.uk/parts/brands/hoover/washing-machines/hw411ambcb__1-80{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d}20(31010827)/
Have a look if you haven`t stumbled upon this pdf already. Plus the damper/s is discontinued which I cannot believe is true. The hose you are after looks like a breather hose (a hose that goes from the soap dispenser to the, well, normally the top of the tank about 6″ long) to me but it is not listed and so maybe I`m looking for a part that doesn`t exist and the part you are showing is possibilily the dispenser to tank soap hose remodified compared with what you show…who knows the mystries of Chinese made stuff which just adds to the fun? Things that might help is the model number up above is incomplete it is HW411AMBCB/1-80 and not HW411AMBCB/-80, so you missed out a 1. So that was why I wasted an hour of my time. The other thing you can look up Hoover models on is the first 8 numbers so in your case 31010827 which means you got /ended up with the right model if not much else.
I think half the problem is Hoover farm out spares to a 3rd party spares network/s = any disaster is possible. As far as the dampers go this part number might work SLG24 which is a pattern alternative though you might want to check with spares dept at uk whitegoods. The door seal too looks as though it has a chunk ripped out of the sealing lip at 10 / 11o/clock position.
If I find anything else I repost.Any problems come back with the full model number and the serial number and any other numbers as read off the machine`s label not read off the instrument panel – you can post a photo of the label.
There are a whole host of other things such as no pump out will give you no or poor spin being the most common.You can get tumbles on wash but no spin and that can still be motor brushes until you finally get both not working. Without the model info the possibilities that itself covers a small length book.No model number given. Given that it is 6kg it is more than likely a brush motor. And so…if it is a brush motor the carbon brushes is where you start. This is what you are looking for: https://shop.ukwhitegoods.co.uk/beko-carbon-brushes notice how some pictures show very little black carbon brush that is only because you have to bend a metal tang to release the brush – stops them from snapping in transit thats why.
This little collection are the most common types there are a few others that were used that are not listed here. When / if you go look for them do not soley base things visually but check, as you can, the model fit list to find ya model..
make sure you keep all your receipts. These wretched heatpumps are a curse to mankind and so apt to fail again fairly soon appears, least to me, no rhyme or reason that they do just that but they can do.
PS If your motor brushes are worn out we will need a couple of pictures of the whole motor. And a couple of pictures of 1 of the actual motor brushes. If it is a carbon brush that can be detached and pulled out its thickness and width in mm would be a good idea to post too. There were 2 possible known motors that could have been used that look (and are) completely different to each other.
Bigdad. Questions to you: so presumably you changed the door interlock and that hasn`t cured your problem, yes or no? Does the door now lock, yes or no. You have then gone over to the instrument panel`s pcb, question: why? Is the start micro switch broken, sheard off for example, have you physically visually looked at the start button`s micro switch? If everything is still intact that could well be just as well since looking even on foreign sites that part appears to be obsolete. If that pcb is damaged your only hope is a s/hand board off ebay or a repair if possible to that pcb.That pcb is a version 2 pcb.
Your best bet considering the age of the machine is to check the motor brushes since from memory “starting stuff” is wired through the motor. Could be wrong, not unknown(!), but by now I would of thought they would be on their last legs and if worn out that should be your answer.
As far as the main pcb goes tread carefully. Some of these Servis pcb had to be pre programmed so it wasn`t the case of buying one swopping the wires to the new pcb and expect it work. I think you can still get that pcb if all else fails. If you see the word “Janus” anywhere the main pcb has to be preprogrammed from memory. On the inside of your filter flap there was a long number in heavier print and if so that was the coding for a new pcb.
Just to make the point to you there were Servis made in uk, they went bust, then there were Servis where that name was bought and used in the manufacturing by Merloni in Italy (your machine) then they went bust, then to present modern times Servis name used by Vestel of Turkey that usually have round filter flaps. None of these were the same machines, all were/are completely different contraptions.Obviously these are somewhat easier to do unless your model has a riveted metal base = a pain in the arse.
For the round section replacement of a replacement and so on for the possible flatten rectangle jobbies as above is now 11047540 but they are a finger burning, least via Bosch website, £66.67 EACH.
Suggest if that ever becomes a problem you go to the Bosch website to check. You`ll also notice that there is a kit on Ebay of 2 dampers and a pair of plastic push in sprigots – these were the previous incarnation of 11047540.
Changing any of these round section dampers is a major undertaking.“a pin hole blockage of gunk gives you a near miss” That should`ve read as: a pin sized hole through the blockage of any gunk gives you a near miss……………….
Other than worn out brushes. If in a hard water area you want to check the pressure switch`s air trap for blockages that would/coulld cause two things 1) the machine overfills and you get somewhat moist to say the least! And 2) a pin hole blockage of gunk gives you a near miss 1) and if not that the machine on pumping out the water the air in the pressure chamber is not released quickly enough = the pressure switch still thinks it has water in the drum so will not spin..
Plus the 2 feeds from the valve to the jet nozzles – if one of those gets block up there is a high risk that the pipe blows off its dispenser nozzle and if so water then sprays all over the pcboard and nukes it = bye bye machine!.
Check the suspension damper legs for wear. If worn out the machine tends to jump about and the tank can hit the chassis. To test for worn out dampers = take the lid off, (having turned the power off) and push down on the top concrete weight, if it springs back up very fast due to the top springs the dampers are shot.If you want to know more on dampers I`ll need your exact model number.because some you can repair but most you have to replace and the ones you have to replace can be very involved and not easy to do.
Noisy pump is common = only a matter oif time until fails. – quite common. Some of the really cheap replacement pattern pumps are utter rubbish and so best avoided.
Check and clean door seal, common place where they fail as a hole = leak is dead at 6 o/clock on the flange bend = a tiny hole of course not to confused with the seals drainway holes somtimes that little hole is caused by a consequence of worn out dampers due to the seal rubbing on the front concrete weight.
You do not tend to get much trouble with the inlet valve/s, the tank to dispenser hose, or the sump hose, nor the suppressor nor the pcb (unless very unlucky) nor the heater unless hard water area if as Mels mentions use a descaler – white vinegar is useless, so use citric acid just do not mix it with bleach.
Advice: do the minimum as far as spending money. The drum spider will corrode and when that happens the machine is a gonner and that can happen whether you have soft water or otherwise. Or put it this way if that happens with 1300 quids worth of Miele (which are overated in my view) it will happen with a Bosch, when? Who knows, totally in the lap of the Gods.
Should the heater fail do not buy an expensive genuine bosch one as the pattern part is more or less the same but repackaged and sold a lot cheaper.You should find it ok now. The other noise in the background is the motor, that`ll be just annoying, loads make that noise and that does not mean impending gloom and doom.
The door seal ref video 1 you`ll need to put right suggest that you get one of those old coat hangers cut it, bend it straight, bend one end into loop to act as a handle and the other end put a small bend shape. Use the small bend to carefully get under the wire where it has started to peel off the tank and re-seat it with help from other hand.Video 3 Not a sealed tank problem. The top weight being moved by hand going front to back is normal but Noticed 2 things 1) difficult to see but I think you have the top springs miss set too far back on the top chassis rail. And what is worse the top spring is going into the front hanging point rather than the rear one least the soap box side. Judging by the way the rear of the concrete weight tappers relative to the chassis back rail the tank is also on the twist. As per above yesterday 21st at 11.03am- i`ve had that one before on a new machine where the bottom dampers were inline and just dandy but the top springs were misset on the wrong pair of tank holes and or on the wrong chassis rail 1 of 2 positions..You have to get this right otherwise being on I`m sure the twist the tanks`s front weight is going to hit the chassis hence your noise or at least throw the tank assembly out of line.
To test where the top springs go both the l/h/side and r/h/s of the tank you have to copy each other both where the springs sit on the one of the 2 positions on the top chassis rail AND the 2 choices on the tank`s spring hanging points.Suggest you go for the settings nearest the front of the machine
There`s a hard way to do it and an easier way to do this. Turn the power off1st! Then remove the top weight`s 3 bolts using an extension bar ratchet and socket 13mm from memory lift off the weight away from the machine and do not drop it!!! put it somewhere previously figured a safe place. mark the the bolts and mark the concrete weight with a marker pen, 1,2 and 3. Removing the weight makes your life easier. Get a pile of books ready and build a tower of large books under the motor to raise the tank up about 3″or 4″ higher this will allow you to disconnect each spring from the chassis rail NOTE there should be a piece of plastic that acts as a bearing for the spring so you might have to repostion in its new location on the chassis to then reset them in the corresponding 1) correct corresponding tank`s hole spring hanging point as necessary 2) do exactly the same position/s for the other spring. Important to get this right everything has to be equal otherwise it`ll be a cock-up. Refit the top weight making sure the 3 bolts are done up well (there`s no torque settings published) You should end up with a gap between the rear rectangle black foam that is glued to the rear rail area. If you used the the same holes as the factory used when refitting the bottom dampers everything should now be inline and the thing should work without sounding like a traction engine with a dodgy flywheel bearing!!“20-3-24 So ill check the part numbers correct on the thermister, can anyone say whether the red stat is about right being a 180c” Short answer is no I do not know if that is correct or not . Does seem high but then the heater wattage is high and takes a large load. Spent time on and off looking for possible answer and couldn`t find one. That link you posted came flying back as page unknown. There is a red spot kit but the cycle stat is 113 and the o/load stat is 120 and on the list of models your model isn`t on it. I think your element has the right combination of stats though the highest kit I found the actual temp for was 120 cycle, 150 o/load which has a blue spot but does say it replaces the red spot but once again your model is not on that list. Think the stat thing could be a red herring unless someone else says different but the picture on uk whitegoods parts shows the under side of the stats and looking at it I`m 99{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} sure the beige one is a thermistor whereas those kits above are all mechanical ones so do not go changing stuff around using any of that stuff as that will be asking for more problems. Basically if there is no stat kit available, so not separate from the heater it is impossible to find out unless someone actually has got a brand new heater in their hand; pretty sure Hotpoint will tell you zippo, they`ve never helped me, only ever caused me problems..
So your t/dryer seems to be throwing up 3 fault codes so we have f6, f22 and f19. f6 = heater`s ntc (thermistor) error detected f22 high current to motor, motor fault maybe or belt (drive) or blockage f19 motor`s pcb most codes that are heater related are f01 to f06. I would make sure that a wire i.e. the thermistor wire at the heater terminal block hasn`t popped out of its tang within the block. Other than that not sure where you go from there. See fault codes for yourself https://www.ukwhitegoods.co.uk/help/fault-codes/tumble-dryer-fault-codes/4095-hotpoint-tde-tdw-fault-codes Heater https://shop.ukwhitegoods.co.uk/c00325995-tumble-dryer-heater-elementif it is the bottom top oven element part number is 00447451 £36.05 All parts and prices taken off Neff`s spares site.
So altogether you have 3 fans in this thing. You have the top oven/grill cooling fan, the bottom main oven cooling fan, and the main oven blower motor fan which is the one smack in the middle of the round element. Ok so ignoring the top oven cooling fan you have the main oven fans left. So when you turn the main oven off after cooking something the main oven cooling fan continues to run for say, 20 mins until it switches itself off but whilst that fan is running you get this annoying noise = the cooling fan part 00742402. @ 69.22 quid. These fans when either the bearing fails or the long blades get choked with fat and/or sticky fluff get out of balance and can themselves, as that part create a noise BUT running in parallel you can have also a warped lower oven element in the top oven/ grill which can chatter against its housing so I just mention that element and it is the element that is under the top grill/oven enamell base so you cannot see the thing. Ordinarily if you replace the cooling fan 00742402 that should cure the problem whether it is clean or not it is a faily gutless motor but it is also fairly delicate with it too, you could try as need be clean the blades and oil the tiny carbon type bearing that is part of the shaft/spindel end that fixes into the rubber end plate – removing the fan and inspecting it does not usually prove, in my experience whether it alone is the culpit or something else entirely or both, such as the lower oven element in the top oven/grill is warped as mentioned (fairly common if that conventional oven is used, which with most people seemingly it isn`t but you may well might do). You are I suspect going to have to check the that top oven`s bottom element just to make sure it is ok or not. One other thing: when the main oven is turned on and the blower fan runs up to speed I take there is no weird noises from that so just whooshing air noise. only mentioned because that is the most common fan motor to fail out of the 3 and happens to be, typically, the most expensive so for future ref it is £184.12 part number 12048433 and I have had those make noise many a time and they are a pig to remove but if you say it is off when the noise occurs then that t`aint it then and it`s therefore best left well alone – you could make sure that the cover to that fan screws are fine though just incase they have rusted – the curse of cooker cleaner on non s/steel screws if that is applicable to you.
