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Fan is working. Don`t forget there are 2 fans there`s one at the back that cools the condenser coils. May be that is your problem.
Video 1 shows that the drum is running in line with the door seal which is connected to the tank so no buckled bicycle wheel type of affair.
Video 2 ditto but an awful dinn
Video 3
Video 4 God Almighty!Beginning to think that is more front weight problem least on vid 4 with the noise
Other than that a cracked bearing tube or cracked plastic around the bearing tube in the tank which would or a least could give you the senario 1
Do not, despite the tank bouncing up and down that it is the actual suspension legs since you changed them nor are misset either.You haven`t noticed any polystrenne foating about under the machine or on the inside of the chassis side panels when you changed the damper legs?
Have a look at the front weight too – common cause of problems
“slightly bent transit bolts” not normally a problem BUT a possible tank`s damper plastic moulded brackets to hair line crack is a thought though that is rare.
With the lid removed if you press down hard on the top concrete weight and then release the pressure immediately should cause the whole tank unit to rise fairly slowly or rather if it springs back up and is all bouncy something would be wrong there – there should be a plastic pin on each of the the dampers at the top and a corresponding 2 at the bottom, so 4 in total.
Shouldn`t be a chassis fault. So that leaves a fault with the sealed tank which is unusual. UNLESS
“It seems that the inner drum has a lot of play when pushed around by hand.” do you mean the inner drum ONLY has a lot of play relative to the tank? Not to be confused with the drum moves and so the tank unit moves a lot too. The Ist senario is a fault with the drum/spider/bearing housing the 2nd would be something to do with suspension / damper legs though front to back movement is normal as is a bit of resistace movement to the left or right. What was the part number of the dampers you changed please? Did the new dampers come with the lower plastic brackets that is screwed to the chassis also note from memory there are several sets of chassis holes so presume u marked which went where otherwise you could`ve ended up with the whole plot being on the squew either leaning too far back, too far forward or too far on the twist relative to the top springs setting in other words the plot has to sit straight down and inline – i`ve had that one before on a new machine where the bottom dampers were inline and just dandy but the top springs were misset on the wrong pair of tank holes. Above all you don`t normally get worn out or faulty dampers in 7 months, 7 years yes but not in 7 months.
What to look for with these damper legs just for interest: If you kept the old dampers the piston top part of the leg if you were to pull it out from the bottom tube bit (not recommended that you do that) is just 2 or 3 rows of greased felt on the piston and when this gets worn out instead of being able to compress both parts with a fair amount of resistance and by also pulling the faulty/worn out ones will just, more or less, drop down unassisted and the piston part will flap about within the tube part plus there is usually a load of deposits of felt around too having been spat out of the tube and it is plainly obvious it is either ok or nuked.Yep pretty sure I know what you mean. Very much doubt that is the problem.
Since you seem to have done a good job of trying to cover the points that would stop pump out from happening on the times it works you are really left with changing the drain pump and then see what happens from there; I take it you have had a bloody good look at the water chamber on l/h/side?. I should think that the pesty one way valve in the sump is not the problem so that is a relief for you. But the question is is this: when the machine does not pump out (i.e. just a couple of spurts) do you hear the pump come again (because the pump is a pulse pump out so 4 seconds, pause, 4 seconds, pause, then final drain good and proper there after) If you hear the pump come on and nothing comes out then presumably it will not be the pump but if you hear nothing it is more likely to be the pump fooling about. Think depending you might have to try a new pump or not as the case may be.“a sort of baffle” As a seal / flexible rubber thin disc? if so that is normal and a one way valve (of a sorts) to prevent the sink water going down the outtlet / machine`s drain pipe. Never had that sort of a problem ever as the cause of your problem. If it is something else send a photo
2 versions but both have the same heater unit. Heater unit a common fault but not so much the heater itself but the thermostats going open circuit or just one but that would cause no heat. There is as far as I can tell no part number for separate t/stat kit as per previous models (this is more of a w/pool inspired contraption rather than the “usual” Hotpoint offering if this makes sense and that is where the problem might lie. The part number for the heater unit is C00325995 (line drawing part J00287200) £116.99. What might have happened is, without accusing anyone, is a stat kit only was changed but changed for the wrong one set (from other hotpoint model ) since there isn`t a separate stat kit according to the parts break down you can buy only the whole heater/cum stat unit. The other thing is one of those stats MIGHT be a thermistor so not your normal mechanical stat and they both visually look the same to add to the fun. The stat with the red paint dot on the new element via the spares picture is the overload stat so if the machine has that if it overheats that stat should get triggered and cuts the power to the element and no amount of magic wand waving will cure that BUT unkown to many under that paint dot is a hole, so if that goes o/circuit with a pin you can gently reset the stat – goes “click”. The problem here is if indeed something was part changed, so that both stats could be wrong ones, or one stat is wrong or the thermister was changed for a mechanical type stat or indeed they are the originals never been messed with so all an unknown. All you have that should be the case is 1 stat with red paint mark
Other things which can cause overheating: there are two fans, one at the rear and one towards the front and both are driven by the motor directly. The front fan can get blocked-up with fluff in the “scoops” of each blade the rear one from memory has a D section on the motor shaft to match the D section hole of the fan, if that wears round that fan does not move but the shaft still does but if that was the case it should be very noisy which isn`t mentioned so presume that is not the case.
Blockage somewhere is possible. condenser blocked up is very common, pcb up the creek possible but not probabal given it does work after a fashion. F22 apparently = current to motor too high perhaps as a consequence of blocked up drum or an overloaded drum = air not circulating presumably. There are 2 motors that could be fitted. PLUS there is or could be a pencil type thermister on the housing cover for the rear fan part C00313117. So there are some pointers to ponder. Here`s a hotpont spares linky : https://www.hotpoint.co.uk/spare-parts/bom/tdwsf83bepuk-61002020000On the quick wash programme for example (i.e. so no confusing prewash as far as I know) see your instruction book
This is the quick wash as on your machine but called:
Express Wash/
Speed Perfect/ (VarioSpeed) *
This function can reduce the running
time by approx. 20{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} to 50{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} depending
on the selected rinse programme. The
change in the running time is indicated
on the digital display. To obtain
optimum cleaning results at a reduced
running time, water and energy
consumption are increased.I know you say the machine fills but if the sensor/s are u/s you can get them to still fill just that the machine is not told to trigger the heatpump to start washing. Those, other than the heatpump itself, other parts I listed may or may not cure your problem you you take pot luck there. To be honest unless your there it is difficult to suss the machine out. I know that rattling on about the heater failure (which is very true) but then equally I have the actual pump part of the heatpump just die too (not as often as the heater but still classed as fairly often) but if you are getting water and no heatpump action, as you say, then it may point to the heatpump itself, could be the main pcb, but the intitial part you could try is the sensor 00611323 £18.60 trouble is all the other parts are not 5 bob and so serious money and any one of those might not be the problem causing major grief. Have you had a look at the main pcb at the bottom? Just because I only ever changed one does not mean you pcb is not the culprit other people might have changed many for all I know- you would have to remove the r/h/side cover the mains lead connects into it directly into the pcb via a plug affair just take a photo/s where the wires plug into the pcb when you`ve got the pcb out: can be a bit of a battle it is a case of disconnect plug and the pcb you push upwards at the same time using a flat bladed screwdriver about 4″ to the left to gently ease the plastc casing off its side locating lug as you gently move the pcb upwards; from memory it is easier to first remove the pcb top cover shield plate.
My gut feeling from this end is that it is more likely the heatpump is duff but it is your gamble.On the quick wash programme for example (i.e. so no confusing prewash) it would be : outlet pump on then water fills as motor on, motor on washing noise good and proper as water has now stopped filling by being sensed, I think, by the sensor attached to sump part 00611323 working electonically inconjuction with the reed fill sensor attached to the l/h/side water fill chamber, soap dispenser opens, then it heats.
“it could still be faulty, impellor spinning on shaft before it gets up to speed for example” possible but never had that happen myself but then you could be spot on. The pump part of the heatpump often just do not work = they may read through ok, the impellor turns ok by fingers/thin screwdriver but the damn thing is still faulty and that is the really annoying factor in all of this.
Thought the control (main pcb) at the bottom r/h/side corner is more likely than the user board (as the part itself) in the fasia panel to be at fault but I have to say that I never changed the user fascia pcb and only ever changed 1 main pcb because it had blown up. BUT possible that the user board loom could have a damaged wire behind the door panel at the bottom, not generally common because there are few wires but possible, had that only once myself on a Bosch /Siemens but it wasn`t the fault you have but was, from memory, a very similar model to yours.
“Would an experienced repairer just try replacing the heat pump?” Well it would be his/her first point of call I`d imagine. Your problem is though most repairers have cottoned on that the heatpumps are a load of trouble and can fail at the drop of a hat and so many will not be keen especially since they would have to warranty the part. This was, it should be said, why I stopped all dishwasher work no matter the make in 2018 to focus purely on washing machines and preferably old ones, in other words I got my fingers burnt on Bosch d/washer heatpump failures- they cost me roughly 600 quid out of trade warranty or what laughably passes for one, heater failures every one. Your trouble could be the sensor 00611323 £18.60 from Siemens / bosch that is one of the least expensive part the other is the l/h/side fill chamber reed swt fill sensor 00611317 £19.43 (if that one fails by itself you usually do not get any fill but you do get a fault code) try unless someone else on this site says I`m talking kriptonite – and that could well be!! No official published info other than parts, no wiring diagrams, sod all available unless you work directly for bosch/siemens.Did you measure the heater to the earth tag one of the 3 spade tags on the motor heater block. There is nothing special about that siemens model it is just a cosmetically glam`ed up Bosch. The motor and heater is contolled by the pcboard bottom r/h/side corner – not saying that pcb never goes wrong but it is unlikely based on my experience but have the part number anyway 00655712 preprogrammed for your specific model at a “mere” £222.16 so you do not want to guess and it guess wrong. The heatpumps are famed for failure, the achillies heel of the whole series of Bosch/Neff/Siemens, part number for your model is 00651956 £139.73 ( crickey they`ve gone up!) so you want to double check there especially as they are famed for the heaters going to earth without taking trips out. There are about 4 ways heaters fail not just the usual obvious way of just open circuit or just a ohms reading between its L and N. Set you test meter with a very good battery on highest ohms possible and with luck you will be able to prove it is to earth, the trade uses a 500v dc mega to test these things – any reading using an ordinary multimeter showing it is to earth is your answer and if that is the case it would be no surprise to me..
Hmm. Like you I`m now at a bit of loss as to what it is to be honest. Have a look in this pipe the best you can when it is removed: https://www.partmaster.co.uk/spray-arm-water-inlet-tube/product.pl?pid=1071194&query=dIPLOMAT+ADP8322
The bottom wash blade`s support area/underneath it. It is called a sieve filter. Anyway if you go to Partmaster spares and type in their part ref number 1110830pm you should get a picture on the part i`m on about. Could well be something jammed around that area. I based it on 1 of the 4 versions under ADP8322 (its really a whirlpool) your actual model version is the long number beginning with 85…….ending with a possible 5811 and that is the one I choose at random of the 4 listed the 3 other versions are PROBABLY the same but if you need to buy it you make sure you check if your 85 number on your machine is different..
Something caught in the sump with water passing over it e.g. a wedged piece of plastic and milk bottle foil top. Also check the elbow black hose that goes from the sump through the heater and the thinner hose from the motor to the sump most likely the problem will be somewhere there. Have a look with a torch via the sump entrace/exit hole nozzles before removing the wash motor as you really want to avoid taking that off due to refiiting and now a new problem of a hose leak.
Ta. Will have a look at the links but on an achaeological dig in the pooring rain presently. “I expect he’s wrong about the tub element being used to boost the drying temperature” me too, but you never know these days same as dc drain pumps. All gone overly high tech which might be great until it screws up, which it will….glad I`m now out the game. Glad he mentioned the compressor (the heat pump) comment because LG refrigeration have a diabolical reputation for bad compressors – lucky to make it to 2 years on the super duper energy efficient compressors, so efficient they soon fail, perhaps that is why, even Samsung are slightly better in that regards and that is a surprising major achievement in itself for them apparently.If you watch enough of Ben`s videos, and he has done loads, you soon come to the conclusion that everything is either challenged or just plain naff or if not it soon will be. He does trip up in a few videos but overall he is spot on.
