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Re: ADG7560 weird fault
The PCB may cut the power to the motor due to sensing lack of water in the sump. When the wash pump picks up the water to spray around, the OWI will notice the drop in level and the machine should fill again until there is enough water in the sump and enough ‘in the air’ to satisfy the OWI.
I would be looking at the flowmeter in the water chamber behind the left hand panel. Oxidised connections and poor fitting wiring plugs are common. The code 2 could be displayed as the board is finding an incorrect water level for that position in the cycle and assumes leakage is the cause.Just a thought….hope that helps,
Steve.
Re: 0800 Repair
washermanuk wrote:Wonder what the call out charge is? 😉
It states “could be as low as £60” and “a premium is charged for weekends and evening calls”.
Steve.
Re: electrolux esi 602/ scaled up element
Question – does the heater work? If the answer is yes, leave it alone. Scaling of heating elements is used as profitable scapegoat for a lot of machine failures these days – but frankly, your element will last as long as it will last – there is no yardstick. You can descale it with ordinary kettle descaler applied carefully with a paintbrush if you wish, but the risk of discolouration of the stainless steel interior IMO outweighs the benefits. It’s down to choice……:wink:
Compare the cost of the descaling product to the amount of electricity you will save. Not even the product manufacturers can tell you this as it is impossible to quantify as every machine is different. Heaters in dishwashers are on for about 25 minutes per cycle in total as they heat the water twice; once on the wash and the final hot rinse. The quantity of water heated is about three quarters of an average sink bowl each time; that’s not a lot of water. So the savings will realistically be tiny compared to the monetary and ecological cost of the extra chemical you are adding to the enviroment. It is something to consider….:wink:
On the maintenance side, 26 years in this industry and I’ve never scrapped a machine solely because of scaling.Save your money; and if it aint broke, don’t fix it.
Steve.
Re: candy washer dryer cnw 156
If the machine has water in it, laying the outlet hose on the floor (with end in a low basin) will allow the water to drain down freely under gravity. You will have to remove the hose clip at the back of the machine to facilitate this.
If it drains quickly, the machine is not blocked. If it drains slowly, lean the machine back against a wall and check the hoses.
The filter should be checked (behind the kick strip) and make sure the pump impellor is not jammed with coins etc.
If the pump is not running, it could be a faulty pump or the classic Candy drip of condensation from the tub above onto the pump. This will short the pump and generally blow the pump triac on the PCB module board. If this is found to be the case, then a new pump must be fitted as well as a new PCB and the pump protected with a plastic cover.Power off before any inspection. :plug:
Steve.
Re: john lewis
50278050005 = 6305ZZ.
5433307203 = 6306ZZ.
1249667013 = seal (dimensions = 40.2.72.11/14).
Qualtex and Connect supply these as separate parts; bearings are generic items; seal is genuine only.
HTH,
Steve.
Re: Electrolux EWX 14540 W – completely dead
Hi Jeff!
Now, £500 buys you a reliable washer with a 5 year warranty (Bosch, ISE, low-end Miele) that will give good service and be repairable. On the subject of washer driers, the trade would not recommend any washer drier as reliability can be an issue. The reason is that washer driers have basically the same running gear as a standard washer, but the moving parts and electrical parts do more work in a washer drier. So a ‘lightly used’ washer drier used for both washing and drying will equal a high mileage washer. Add to that the bearing seals are subjected to long periods of dry heat with no water splash lubrication. Add to that the manufacturers “chocolate teapot” electronics and you have a problem.
If it has to be a washer drier and there is no possible way you can accomodate a separate washer and tumble drier (the far superior alternative), then high end Bosch or Siemens machines or Miele. You are looking at Bosch / Siemens at £650 or Miele at £900+. If you think about it, you’ve probably spent almost as much in the last few years on machines as the Miele would have cost. And it would have outlasted them both….and some. It is worth considering……….:wink:Steve.
Re: Electrolux EWX 14540 W – completely dead
It’s as easy as the PCB for sure – it’s the cost of replacing the pcbs (main, display and probably door interlock) that will be hard to take. 😯 It may be the power supply section of the PCB (requires new PCB) or the door interlock has blown all the above items in one go. (not uncommon). This machine has a split tub assembly which is a blessing as the drum assembly can be repaired economically in the future. (explanation of this valid point is in the ‘Advice and Help’ section under the ‘sealed tubs’ heading).
So unless you are sure the PCB has failed, then ordering PCBs on spec is risky. If you are wrong in your diagnosis, you have a PCB that is useless to you and you will be about £100 + poorer. And some need configuring after fitting and that can only be done by the manufacturer’s engineers.
It may be worth getting an engineer to look at it first; then the risk of being unnecessarily out of pocket will not be yours. 😉Hope that helps,
Steve.
Re: Tool Bag
The 1630 is the old model – the new design 1632 has a moulded rubber base; great for wet floors. They’ve upgraded the strength of the materials as well, according to the CK site. The link was for example only as I couldn’t find the original link either!!
Steve.
Re: Tool Bag
http://www.amazon.co.uk/C-K-1632-Techni … B002BDLUFS
This is the best one I have seen and from practical experience of owning one, I won’t be going back to tool boxes. Loads of space and it forces you to be tidy. 😉
The centre section is for a full size laptop – I have my cordless drill in there instead. Recommended by quite a few people on this site.Hope that helps,
Steve.
Re: Candy CNA135-80 wont stop spinning
If the new brushes were at fault, you would likely hear a crackling, arcing noise and the motor would be erratic. If the filter trap is clear (at the front behind the kickstrip) then there is probably an issue with the PCB module. (computer unit).
Candy make Hoover so they are essentially the same animal. If the PCB has been traumatised by worn brushes (down to the copper wire could have damaged the motor armature and it is shorting slightly) then the only answer is a new PCB module. These boards are very sensitive and a shorting motor or a water drip onto the pump below will fry the electronics. And they do. Often.
There are several PCB boards for these machines and all run differing programming. There are also PCB boards available that are termed “not configured” which means they will need programming on installation by the engineer. You also have to consider if another component caused the board to fail, as you have to build that into your calculations. Add the motor and the PCB together and things start to get costly.
A diagnostic is required by an engineer before you throw good money away. The machines are worth repairing and an engineer’s fee is cheaper than buying bits you don’t need. It also makes your decision a whole lot easier and quicker.Hope that helps,
Steve.
Re: Build quality and brand names!
madrat wrote:I just hope we don’t brake down on the way to the party. With the wife dressed as a witch and me as a surgeon covered in blood :rolling:
Yeah, that would suck……….:rotl:
Steve.
Re: Build quality and brand names!
That makes this machine the only Hoover cleaner that’s worth stealing!! (for the stickers and black cat that is) You’ve doubled it’s value as it was no good for the job it was originally designed for. :snig:
Joking apart – great idea; should turn some heads!!
Steve.
