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Re: My ice cracks up
Perish the thought of warm beer!!!!!
lol….the cause is still the same however, if the water is blast frozen very quickly (positioned in the cold air supply stream maybe), or the very cold ice is moved to a much warmer environment then stresses are created within the cube….water itself is not such a great conductor of thermal energy so a change of ambient temperature will cause the surface of your cubes to warm (or cool) quite quickly whilst the interior relies on much slower conduction of the temperature change through the ice itself.
Another factor is that water is a very unusual substance in that it doesn’t follow the rules of expansion and contaction. As you are no doubt aware when things are heated they expand, and when cooled they contract….except for water that is. When water is cooled it does contract but only until it’s temperature reaches 4C. If it is cooled further it actually begins to expand again and become less dense. This is why ice forms on the surface of a pond and not at the bottom….and why the ice cubes in your drink float too.
The net result is that large or quick changes in temperature to ice (or turning water to ice) create large stresses within within the ice that cause it to crack.
So….if you want the perfect ice-cube you need to freeze the water more slowly, and ‘acclimatise’ them before use.
Personally speaking, and particularly with the weather we’re having down south, our household hasn’t got time to do that…the kids love to eat the ice in their drink before they drink it anyway! :rotfl:
Re: My ice cracks up
The ice must be very cold indeed then…when you transfer it to a warmer environment (your G&T etc) the surface of the cubes warm very quickly while the inside doesn’t which through expansion creates enormous tension in each cube and hey presto…CRACK!!!
The answer is simply to knock back the drink very quickly before the ice melts altogether, or alternatively drink beer instead.
:rotfl:
Re: Bra wires
Dave_Conway wrote:It’s up to £6.51 this morning 😀
No idea who the bidder is though but it’s bound to be someone from UKW I reckon 😉
Dave.
That would be me then (trisers)….(don’t ask!) :rotfl:
Re: Candy Fridge Freezer CP2913F
Charlie
You say the mains voltage seems pretty low at the input…if the mains supply voltage coming into the appliance is low then you have a poor connection somewhere in the plug/socket/house wiring.
If on the other hand the voltage is low at the compressor then you most likely have a faulty connection within the appliance.
If you need an engineer the have a look in Repairs@
Re: Cost of dealing with the public
Surely all this is the responsibility of public liability insurers…they all have their legal departments and will offer free advice?
Re: Jackson Cooker Grill element
Aren’t the model number details on a ‘pop-up’ metal flag at the top?
Re: SGS5312GB/12 will not finish wash cycle
The board is situated in the top of the door….if you don’t feel you can work it from that then you will need a qualified engineer…there are some very sharp edges exposed when working on dishwashers so fear of lawsuits prevents any further information coming from me.
If you decide to have a go then you must unplug the appliance before doing anything else. :zap:Re: (Deliberate?) short supply of dishwasher powder
…not to mention the fact that each tab is a pre-measured dose designed to cope with even the dirtiest of pans/crockery (i.e. a measured over-dose for the lightly soiled stuff!) 😉
Re: SGS5312GB/12 will not finish wash cycle
Sounds like it is the pcb…usual fault is dry joints on the heater relay. This is a simple and inexpensive repair, if you need an engineer then have a look in Repairs@
Re: Bosch SGS5312GB/12 doesn’t stop or drain
The evidence would suggest a blockage in the pump/drain hose as Martin suggests….after all, if there was a bottle cap beneath the filter then the machine has been run with the filter incorrectly fitted which could allow all sorts into the pump.
