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Re: Hoover Washing machine
Hi babe
Aonther thing you can do is run a 90 degree wash at least once a month…even if you don’t have any laundry that will take that temperature – just run it empty with a little detergent. A bleach is chemically formed above 80 degrees in the wash from the detergent which will kill the mould and inhibit further growth, makes the machine smell nice too!
Ohhh…and remember it’s in the interest of detergent manufacturers to recommend using as much of their product as you can 😉 The guidelines given with the product talk about ‘heavily soiled’ and ‘lightly soiled’ then give doseage amounts for each…so how soiled is ‘lightly soiled’ anyway???
CliveRe: bosch sgs5312 poor wash pressure
…no worries Electricmalc…always nice when built-in is quicker to repair than a free standing eh? :)….and of course, nothing worse than a free-standing thats been built in!!!! 😉
CliveRe: bosch sgs5312 poor wash pressure
Hi again Joe
Glad you got it sorted! 🙂
. ❓ ..and Electricmalc…would love to know how you accessed it without pulling the machine…thought the kick panel was secured with a torx each side behind the side panels? 😯
CliveRe: Unpaid customer invoices
…indeed…and to my mind requesting and accepting a service (whether or not spares are fitted) with no intention of paying is as good as theft…a view a court would take too no doubt. The problems arise when the ‘customer’ (alternative names come to mind 😉 ) starts to pick at the service provided with spurious complaints to avoid payment or at the very least to ‘negotiate’ a lower payment.
This has only happened to me on two occasions but is galling nonetheless, but at the end of the day life has enough hassles and the cost in time and money of persuing it through the courts is high with the likelyhood of full recompense low.
I have become philosophical about these instances after making a good effort to get payment, and like you Dave I let my local network know all about it…at least you get the satisfaction that if that customer requires a repair they will find it extremely difficult to get a local engineer to their door 🙂
CliveRe: Bosch fridge freezer
Hi Roger
The compressor has three connector pins as you have seen. They are connected to 2 circuits within the compressor, one is usued to start it and the other to allow it to continue to run.
The top pin is the common connection of both start and run windings so a check can be made as follows…
Measure the resistance between the top pin and one of the bottom two pins and note the reading (prolly between 10 and 25 ohms)
Measure the resistance between the top pin and the other bottom pin and note the reading (again prolly between 10 and 25 ohms)
Measure the resistance between the two bottom pins…this should be equal to the sum of the previous two measurements (you are now testing through both windings together)
If there is an open cicuit reading between any of the pins then the compressor has failed. This part is not repairable, it can be replaced but this is a big expensive job so if your appliance is of any great age or low value then it means a new machine i’m afraid.
Once again make sure the machine is fully isolated (unplugged) before any work is carried out.
CliveRe: Diplomat ADP 8252 E4 Alarm code?
Hi Kris
If memory serves this is a heating control fault which means that you need to electrically test part of the machine…not a DIY fix?
CliveRe: Hotpoint WMA37 motor not turning
Hello neil
It is a common fault this, usually worn motor brushes but if you are sure these are in working condition and you have checked for continuity accross them whilst in situ then that clearly isn’t your problem. The next thing to check is the harness connection to the motor from the programmer…they do suffer from broken wires here too, but not knowing which meter you are using its best to disconnect the harnes from the pcb before you test it.
If that appears ok then the next most likely is the triac on the pcb…this is not available as a serperate part from Hotpoint so if you cannot establish its workability and type then the bill goes up! 😉Re: Diplomat ADP 8224 Dishwasher E3 error
If it’s a thermistor then you need to be able to measure it’s electrical resistance with a meter, and observe that value changing when warming or cooling it (you could be looking at values of something like 20-40k ohms at room temperature), if it’s a stat then it will have contacts that open or close at a set temperature (often about 65 degrees for a dishwasher which is actually very hot!)
Still puzzled why the element was observed red hot though…you say you tested it by running with the door open, the wash pump takes several seconds to reach full pressure by which time with the door even slightly ajar most of the water would no longer be in the machine 😉
The acid test of water level is listening to the wash pump during operation, and listening for the swishing of both arms rotating under pressureconstantly.
Even if this happens, you may have an intermittant fault with the wash pump or water level control…either way it may not be what you want to hear but an engineer visit might be the best bet IMO
CliveRe: bosch sgs5312 poor wash pressure
Hi Joe
If the corrugated pipe between the plastic tank on the side is now clear, and the base of this tank too…check lastly that where the corrugated pipe fits to the sump is clear all the way into the sump. If when the machine fills, and the water is running into the sump but overflows into the chamber to the right of the diaphragm switch causing the red plastic vertical piece to rise (and hence operate the flood protection) then there can only be a blockage remaining. The inlet supply is fed through a flow restrictor so it cannot fill too quickly, therefore if the water is not getting into the sump quickly enough it can only be a partial blockage.
As you have no doubt noticed the diaphragm assy is a ‘clip together’ assy so taking it apart is NOT recommended…if the problem is there, you’ll just have to try to flush it from the bottom outlet of the tank.
Let us know how you get on?
CliveRe: Diplomat ADP 8224 Dishwasher E3 error
you say the owner saw the element glowing red hot before it went wrong?…the element should never glow at any time…sounds like a water control problem, or a wash pump problem. Either of these would cause overheating of the element which in turn would trip the o/heat cut/out and stop the machine heating, thus giving an E3 code.
Sounds very much like you need an engineer to investigate this for you.
CliveRe: Hoover Performa WA110-001 Washer Dryer
After all the checks you’ve done, to my mind the contamination can only have been introduced with the laundry…did it only happen on one wash? Very complex chemistry can happen when other chemicals such as beauty products are mixed with detergent products (which in themselves are a mixture of very many chemicals) to produce all sorts of effects including staining.
Clive
